John and Marsha Standish
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2012
- Posts
- 7
We have been experimenting with getting weak TV Channels to come in when we are at remote camp grounds, what have you found that realy brings in the signals
Best antenna to pull in weak TV channels
- Thread starter John and Marsha Standish
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
COMer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2009
- Posts
- 1,663
We had a bat wing and it was OK. Then we added a Wingman ($25) and it was much better. Then we had a problem and it had to be replaced. We went with the Jack this time ($50 replacement head) and it is just great. Much better reception and does not need to be aimed as before. Our experience shows that the Jack is superior. That said, there are certainly places where no antenna will work.
Cant Wait
Well-known member
X2 on the Jack antenna, I have the replacement head that mounts the same as the old Bat Wing antenna, works much better in fringe areas.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
There are 3 batwings, Sensar II, III and IV.. The Jack looks to be right about a Sensar III
If you have the basic Sensar,, (That's the II, the original Sensar I is no longer made)
Add the Wingman, 30 bucks (I think) and it's now a Sensar III and just about equal to the much ballyhooed jack.
Then add the Sensar Pro indoors modult, This replaces the wall plate if you have one or if not goes BETWEEN the antenna and the box of many buttons. That makes the III into an IV which does a much better job.
HOWEVER... If that's still not good enough, and you are parked for a long time, consider putting up a mast.. And on top of the mast put a deep-fringe antenna with mast head amplifier by Channel Master or some other top antenna company.
Also.. SOME of the mast head amps may be compatable with the Winegard power supply (The indoor module weather a wall plate, sensar pro or BOMB is the power supply) and able to use the original Roof top ANT line This may or may not be an advantage, else bring it in on the CABLE lead.
Height is might on VHF and UHF, I proved that years ago.. But I've told that story before ask if you need to read it again.
If you have the basic Sensar,, (That's the II, the original Sensar I is no longer made)
Add the Wingman, 30 bucks (I think) and it's now a Sensar III and just about equal to the much ballyhooed jack.
Then add the Sensar Pro indoors modult, This replaces the wall plate if you have one or if not goes BETWEEN the antenna and the box of many buttons. That makes the III into an IV which does a much better job.
HOWEVER... If that's still not good enough, and you are parked for a long time, consider putting up a mast.. And on top of the mast put a deep-fringe antenna with mast head amplifier by Channel Master or some other top antenna company.
Also.. SOME of the mast head amps may be compatable with the Winegard power supply (The indoor module weather a wall plate, sensar pro or BOMB is the power supply) and able to use the original Roof top ANT line This may or may not be an advantage, else bring it in on the CABLE lead.
Height is might on VHF and UHF, I proved that years ago.. But I've told that story before ask if you need to read it again.
