Best roof sealant?

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nspoacamper

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Posts
15
Looking to apply roof sealant to my 1998 Ford Jayco 27ft RV . What do you guys recommend I should use?
Thank You
 

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Just a few questions:


Can we assume that this is a rubber roof, or is it metal?


Why do you want to reseal? Is it leaking?


If it is leaking, where?
 
The roof is not metal its rubber sorry.

There is a leak somewhere sometimes it?s really weird. I thought id re seal the whole roof to prevent leakage.
 

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Yeah, leaks are hard to track down, as the place where it is leaking may not be where it is coming in. Leaks can sometimes run quite some distance on the underside of a roof before they drip down.


One more question:


When you talk about resealing the roof, are you talking about the roof joints (or where the air conditioner or vents exit through the roof), or the entire surface of the roof? These are two different projects. Now that we know you have a leak, it is probably a joint that is leaking somewhere. Likely there is no need to reseal the whole roof itself, correct? Is the visible part of the roof membrane in basically good condition, or is it torn or peeling, with fabric showing?
 
The roof seems to be in decent condition no visible tears or fabric showing. I planned on covering the whole roof to just be pro active. I will attach a picture of my RV and Thank you for the help.
 

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Could it be moisture from the aircon rather than a leak? Is it around that area?  Someone else will be more knowledgeable than I on that but I have read about them having water build up..
 
Thank you for the information. That unit looks amazingly good for the age that you state! :)


At this point, I will probably bow out. I am no expert on roof repair, but there are many people here that are.


It is my understanding from what I have learned in this forum myself, is that there is no point in refinishing the whole roof if it is only a seam or a joint that is leaking. If the fabric is in good condition, I understand that it is actually counterproductive to recoat it with something else.


However, as stated, I will now let the experts carry it from here.
 
Bump.


I was hoping someone more knowledgeable than myself would help this poor fellow out. No posts so far....
 
I agree with Frank. If the roof material is in good shape, don't put a sealer on it. The only places a roof can leak if the material is in good condition is the roof penetrations and seams. Inspect the caulking carefully at the penetrations and seams. Pay particular attention to the antenna and cable. Another place to really pay attention to on a class C is the front cap area, especially if it has a window in the front. Also check the clearance lights. When recalling, use the correct caulk. Do not use silicone. You may also want to investigate Eternabond tape. Once and done. A sealer should only be used if the material is worn and possibly leaking through. Personally, I would only use a sealer to get me by until I replaced the roof.
 
Minnesota Roofing, Alexandria Mn has a product that I have used twice. Once on my houseboat and once on my 5er.  Rolls on with a roller and is easy to use. 
 
Just coated my 9 year old roof and used the Dicor 2 part product. It was pretty easy and the roof now looks like new. Only time will demonstrate the longevity of the product. It has excellent reviews everywhere I read. I also expect the trailer to be a tad cooler due to the whiter roof. I was also counseled that since there were no leaks I did not need to seal the roof. My opinion, why wait for the inevitable leak? I was proactive and am glad I was. I don't generally wait to replace a belt or hose until it breaks or leaks, why should I not take the same preventive approach to my roof?
RichH
 
Because the roof will give you plenty of warning before it actually leaks through if you're paying attention to it. Then when you may really need to seal the roof, the stuff you already needlessly put on is flaking and peeling. There's nothing to do then except replace the roof. Take care of the penetrations and seams, and let the roof do it's thing for 12 to 15 years, then start considering putting a sealer on it if you still have it. There's nothing proactive putting on sealers when not needed.
 
kdbgoat said:
Because the roof will give you plenty of warning before it actually leaks through if you're paying attention to it. Then when you may really need to seal the roof, the stuff you already needlessly put on is flaking and peeling. There's nothing to do then except replace the roof. Take care of the penetrations and seams, and let the roof do it's thing for 12 to 15 years, then start considering putting a sealer on it if you still have it. There's nothing proactive putting on sealers when not needed.
If applied properly why would it peel and flake? Having worked in building and equipment maintenance all of my life I disagree about the value of preventive maintenance. By your logic I would only be forestalling the peeling and flaking by a couple of years if I waited for a problem to surface. BTW, I live in the Phoenix, AZ metro area and the sun beats on that roof over 300 days a year.
RichH
 
Because factory fresh is usually best.


I worked in the paint refinishing business for many years.  Factory paint is best.  Why would one repaint a car if the factory paint was still good?  It is NOT preventive maintenance to repaint an undamaged finish.  It only thickens the coating, which, because of heating and contracting, often puts added stress on the finish, causing cracking and peeling.
 
Do what you want, it seems your mind already made up to seal the roof. Not trying to be a butt here. It's been explained that if the fabric is good, sealant is unnecessary. Keep reading the internet, and look for posts about people whining and crying that they have peeling and flaking sealer that was most likely applied when not needed. Now their only option is to replace the entire roof. The only other option is live with the flaking and peeling, and worrying about wether or not any potential leaks be mitigated.
 
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