Best website for mocking up solar system?

[chaostactics]

Is there a 1 stop site for me to figure out what I will need for my solar system?

I know what panels, batteries, inverter charger, and solar controller I want but wiring and other components including guage I'm still unclear on.

 

[solarman]

Is there a 1 stop site for me to figure out what I will need for my solar system?

I know what panels, batteries, inverter charger, and solar controller I want but wiring and other components including guage I'm still unclear on.

I can help you with system design, what info do you need..?
please describe your intended system either here or in a PM.

 

[strugglebus]

DIYsolarforum.

 

[Ex-Calif]

This one has a ton of ads and looks clunky.

RV and Camper Van Solar Calculator

Campervan solar calculator to help you decide how many solar panels, batteries, and what size inverter to use for your camping solar system. DIY wiring diagrams for solar panel systems of all sizes.

www.parkedinparadise.com

This one is a cleaner more logical approach IMO

RV Solar Calculator - RV Solar Systems Online

Step 1 – Calculate your RV electrical power requirements Step 2 – Calculate your total weekly amps needed Multiply total amps hours per day by the number of days per week (i.e. weekend camping: multiply total amp hours x 2 days, full-time camping: multiply total amps per day x 7...

www.rvsolarsystemsonline.com

For a minute I thought you wanted this... Which is also cool - LOL

Interactive Solar System Tour | 3D Model of the Solar System

... Read more

nineplanets.org

 

[solarman]

This one has a ton of ads and looks clunky.

RV and Camper Van Solar Calculator

Campervan solar calculator to help you decide how many solar panels, batteries, and what size inverter to use for your camping solar system. DIY wiring diagrams for solar panel systems of all sizes.

www.parkedinparadise.com

just for a laugh.. here is the output of that one with a high end demand inputs


seriously though, these things are bad at what they do... they are of no use whatsoever, all the outputs from this one are just total garbage.. suggesting a 14KW inverter.. OMG.


if you need advice, it's plentiful and free, just ask away..

This one is a cleaner more logical approach IMO

RV Solar Calculator - RV Solar Systems Online

Step 1 – Calculate your RV electrical power requirements Step 2 – Calculate your total weekly amps needed Multiply total amps hours per day by the number of days per week (i.e. weekend camping: multiply total amp hours x 2 days, full-time camping: multiply total amps per day x 7...

www.rvsolarsystemsonline.com

For a minute I thought you wanted this... Which is also cool - LOL

Interactive Solar System Tour | 3D Model of the Solar System

... Read more

nineplanets.org

 

[chaostactics]

@solarman so I took a bunch of physical measurements today along with pics of the current power center. Im worried about losing too much CCC by going with 400 aH and 800 watts of panels not to mention the overall budget. I'm trying to preserve under bed storage and would like to try and only mount the battery bank inside.

Here's the under bed storage and the other side of the wall in the passthrough. Note: the tubing routes out through the back of the under bed storage is airline for a sleep number mattress. But it does make a good point of reference for where the under bed rear wall is in reference to the pass through wall.

 

[chaostactics]

Pictures of the battery wiring as well as the current power distro center/circuit breaker.

The lead acid battery will of course be replaced.

Front of panel as well as back of panel and the fenestration the wires come up through the floor via. And the space behind the panel.

 

[chaostactics]

The floor plan for the traiIer. The power panel is located under the pantry and just to the right of the stove.

It's expensive but I was planning on running victron for the inverter charger, the solar charge controller, and the battery shunt due to the built in inter-compatibility and application interface.

My primary concerns for load are a microwave and mini split. Something like this one.

Mini Split Air Conditioner MRCOOL Advantage 12,000 BTU 115V Heat Pump System

Lowest price guaranteed on MRCOOL Advantage Series mini-split heat pump systems. We offer fast, free shipping with every purchase. Convenient payment methods and stress-free financing options are available.

thefurnaceoutlet.com

Other loads may be things like an electric kettle, toaster oven, TV + speakers, internet equipment, and then various things like lighting, water pump, etc.

Of note I will be carrying a dual fuel inverter generator to back up the LifePO batteries+solar.

 

[chaostactics]

I'm still a bit unclear if the inverter charger should go over by the power center or right near to the batteries?
If near the batteries I would mount the inverter charger and solar charge controller inside the passthrough directly on the opposite side from the batteries.


I would also want to keep the system 12v DC all the way around for simplicity of component purchasing and possible replacement in the event of component failure.

I will have someone else who's electrically inclined helping with the whole project but ideally I know enough to be useful going into this and am able to have nearly everything purchased and mapped out before the install.

 

[chaostactics]

@solarman any input would be very welcomed. You're an incredible wealth of knowledge.

 

[solarman]

I'm still a bit unclear if the inverter charger should go over by the power center or right near to the batteries?
If near the batteries I would mount the inverter charger and solar charge controller inside the passthrough directly on the opposite side from the batteries.

I would suggest keeping the distance between the inverter and the batteries as short as possible.
so installing the inverter and charge controller on the pass through wall is a good idea.

I would also want to keep the system 12v DC all the way around for simplicity of component purchasing and possible replacement in the event of component failure.

it really doesn't make any difference. in fact, higher voltage can make things simpler..!

I will have someone else who's electrically inclined helping with the whole project but ideally I know enough to be useful going into this and am able to have nearly everything purchased and mapped out before the install.

 

[chaostactics]

@solarman ok so I could use the current battery lines that run to the hitch mount lead acid battery via a route under the passthrough. Bring them up inside to the battery bank to supply 12v DC to the distro panel? Would I need to increase the guage?

Then any input if I want the 12/2000 or 12/3000 inverter charger?

Battery bank of 300 aH seem sufficient if I have a gen set to back up my solar panels?

600 vs 800 w of panels? I'm having no luck finding an easy source for residential panels here in MD.

Are there any big advantages to running panels in series or parallel? Ditto on the batteries? (I realize I would have to have 200 aH or 400 aH to run in parallel)


How would I determine cable diameter to get AC power to the panel? I think I can fish it though the same conduit/fenestration as the battery to panel cables?

I see the panel has guage ratings on it but if I'm running cable from the inverter that now located further from the panel it'll have to be larger guage? Or I believe there was a discussion of running multiple cables instead of replacing them outright?

 

[chaostactics]

You'd also remove the 8955pec converter from the panel as well since I'd have the victron multiplus inverter charger?

 

[solarman]

@solarman ok so I could use the current battery lines that run to the hitch mount lead acid battery via a route under the passthrough. Bring them up inside to the battery bank to supply 12v DC to the distro panel? Would I need to increase the guage?

for the few feet diference you make I would suggest you keep them the same.

Then any input if I want the 12/2000 or 12/3000 inverter charger?

only you know what size inverter will be required, have you summed all your loads and produced a figure ? take some time and add up all the concurrent loads, I have a spreadsheet posted in another thread.. try it, it will help. my only consideration here is if you intend to use a 3000 watt unit with 12 Volts.. that's some 250 Amps peak and it's not a good solution in my opinion.. you wil need to use 4/0 cables and professionally crimped lugs. ( marine or golf cart shops can make these for you )

Battery bank of 300 aH seem sufficient if I have a gen set to back up my solar panels?

the issue here is see is the BMS, be very careful in your choice of battery as a number of "cheaper" batteries ony have a 100 Amp BMS. I would suggest you only draw 50% of the batteries BMS capacity.. over stressing a BMS can lead to premature failure. this is another reason i promote higher voltages. - less current and smaller conductors..

600 vs 800 w of panels? I'm having no luck finding an easy source for residential panels here in MD.

pity you are not closer, I could supply you with panels, sadly the shipping cost to you is unrealistic.
due to the larger size, these have to be shipped freight.

Are there any big advantages to running panels in series or parallel? Ditto on the batteries? (I realize I would have to have 200 aH or 400 aH to run in parallel)

series will allow smaller conductors and higher PV voltages, generally more efficient vs cable and MPPT losses however, shading will destroy output very quickly. parallel is preferred for maximum yield and is what I would recommend for general use in an RV. unless you live in the dessert or an open space..!

How would I determine cable diameter to get AC power to the panel? I think I can fish it though the same conduit/fenestration as the battery to panel cables?

you will have two cable runs, one from your shore input to the Victron unit and one pair back to the load center. the victron has an auto transfer switch. you would use 10 AWG. ( assuming a 30 Amp system )

I see the panel has guage ratings on it but if I'm running cable from the inverter that now located further from the panel it'll have to be larger guage? Or I believe there was a discussion of running multiple cables instead of replacing them outright?

View attachment 157494View attachment 157495View attachment 157496

I see no harm leaving the charger in place, it will not fully charge a lithium anyway, the victron unit will provide charging as necessary.

 

[chaostactics]

@solarman

Do you have a link to that spreadsheet thread?

After hours and hours of reading 12v seems to be what will suit my needs best. Cabling more expensive and difficult to work with up front but the 12v parts market is so much more plentiful than higher voltage.


Also along those lines, id have to look at your spreadsheet first but I'm guessing 300aH is going to be the cross roads between a "good enough" capacity x cost x weight for me. (I'll have a gen set to back stuff up.)

I really don't have that much DC load it's a small 26' TT. My primary concern is AC load.


*I swear for every one thing I learn I come up with two more things I need to learn.

 

[solarman]

@solarman

Do you have a link to that spreadsheet thread?

the sheet is in this solar forum. a few posts earlier.

After hours and hours of reading 12v seems to be what will suit my needs best. Cabling more expensive and difficult to work with up front but the 12v parts market is so much more plentiful than higher voltage.

perhaps, but how often do you expect to replace items ? a set of equipment like victron will last a good 10 years or more.

Also along those lines, id have to look at your spreadsheet first but I'm guessing 300aH is going to be the cross roads between a "good enough" capacity x cost x weight for me. (I'll have a gen set to back stuff up.)

I really don't have that much DC load it's a small 26' TT. My primary concern is AC load.

and that is where your battery capacity will matter when supplying AC loads. as you said, DC loads are usually small and not an issue. it's the high amp discharge from the inverter that will stress the system.
do make sure the battery BMS is capable enough for such loads. as an example, say you intend to pull 2500 watts from the inverter, at 12V with 90% efficiency you will need to
supply ( 2500 / 12 ) * 90% = 229 Amps. a commodity lithium like the amperetime 300 A/Hr has a 200 Amp BMS. that draw exceeds it's capability. you would need to parallel two of them to cope with that load.

*I swear for every one thing I learn I come up with two more things I need to learn.

life is a learning experience.. it never ends