Black blemishes on Fiberglass skin.

[TheBar]

For the 1st time in the 11 years I've owned it my RV has been in covered storage and not washed in the past year. It does accumulate a think layer of dust on the horizontal surfaces. But the main thing I've noticed is the complete lack of black mildew. So keeping moisture off it is one big benefit of keeping an RV under a roof. Versus using "breathable" covers that make mold and mildew worse in this humid climate.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

For cleaning black streaks and bugs on the front cap and windshield, I use Super Clean, sold at Walmart. In the auto section, it comes in a purple jug for around $10 a gallon. This degreaser cleans a lot of different things. I even use it (diluted) as a laundry spot remover. Another overall good cleaner that will remove black streaks on an RV is Spray Nine. This is a favorite in the boating industry, and back in my boating days, I used it for everything.

Some folks have used Zep Floor Polish-Wax on older RVs to restore some luster to their sun-dried dull finish. The key is to apply several layers. There is a lot written on using Zep on RVs on the iRV2 Forum, same family as this forum.

Another product I use with great success is 303 Aerospace Protectant spray. Expensive, on Amazon for about $60 a gallon or more. Today, I use this several times a year on my motorhome tires because of the UV protection it provides. I also use it on my dashboard in my rig and on the leather-coated seats. It also works great on vinyls, plastics, and fiberglass. My SIL used it for protection on her trailer that sits under trees at her seasonal campsite. Looks great. It will provide a nice sheen to your rig while adding some UV protection. Spray it on and wipe. Good stuff. A comparison is Armor All for use, but 303 does not have petroleum distillates that will dry out plastics, rubber, etc.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Thx for this. Google search says “If you get a white chalky powder off the Fiberglass skin” there’s no gelcoat left. If this is something I can replace myself (cheapy! lol) I’d consider it but it would never be factory.
If I understand the situation then I’ll cut through the oxidation/restore the fiberglass w this Maguires 1Step Compound M67, and seal the results with a quality wax.

You can't re-apply gel coat (the gel layer is created as part of the molding process) but you can paint it to get similar results. A quality marine deck paint is durable and not all that difficult to apply. Or apply Dicor's Fiberglass RV Roof Coating, which is a paint-on resin that is easy to apply and nice looking. It's formulated for horizontal surfaces so tends to run easily on vertical areas, so be careful if you use it on a side wall.

 

[Qwe]

Just when I think I’m done you guys throw another curve ball! .
Honestly tho I’ve kicked around the idea of a full wrap but that’d be too expensive I’m sure, but a do-it-yerself paint job…..
I’ll check this suggestion out and keep this thread updated. For now my day is dedicated to applying the aforementioned Maguires 1 Step Compound (M67).

 

[gwinger]

Just be careful with an aggressive compound. It's easy to go through the paint which is softer than gelcoat.

 

[Kirk]

It is possible to replace or re-gelcoat fiberglass on an RV, but it's generally not recommended for large-scale repairs. Re-gel coating is a complex and costly process, often exceeding 10-15K. Instead, painting is a more practical and cost-effective solution for covering up gelcoat damage or oxidation. Kits for replacing gel coat are available but I have not used one. At one time I did have just a couple of small areas that were degraded, and I used Rust-Oleum 302110 Universal All Surface Clear Topcoat Spray with some success to restore the shine. The area that I used it on was on the top of the front cap on a class A and so was not visible from the ground. It was about 15 years ago and I'm not certain that it was that exact product, but it was a similar product by Rust-Oleum. It was an area of about 2 square feet and at the point where the cap curves from vertical to horizontal. It never looked as good as original but when we sold the RV 3 years later it was still not noticeable from the ground.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

Imron paint is a heavy-duty polyurethane paint often used in re-finishing boats to create a high-gloss gel-coat looking finish. The boating industry probably uses more gel-coating than all of the RV industry, so that would be a great place to look for re-finishing solutions for an RV.

 

[Qwe]

Well I’m a little disappointed and a lot more sore, - this estate sale TT project continues to be a learning experience. The Mr Clean magic eraser pads (2 boxes worth) did all the heavy lifting and worked flawlessly. The Hotsy (“very hot/no detergent) pressure washer cleaned an area, then I scrubbed from the top down w these pads, rinse and repeat. So far so good. Cept my arms no longer work……..
The Maguires 1 step M67 process however… not so much. Not knocking the product but Kirk, you were spot on - there’s no gel coat left. I did do the nose, it did make a small difference but not enough to justify the price/effort. Now I know. This process would certainly prepare the trailer for painting but my hunch is sanding is preferred (and easier?).
The budget doesn’t include painting (unless a brush n roller gives a decent finish). So when I get my arms back I’ll apply a wax to protect today’s effort.
I’ve had several paint suggestions…… my next rabbit hole, lol. Enjoy the day eh?

 

[gwinger]

After using the compounds and waxes, painting will be a lot more work.
All the wax must be completely removed and the surface sanded or the paint won't adhere.
Plus, any caulking around trim, doors and windows has to be removed. Paint won't stick to it.
Personally, I would get it a good as you can and try to live with it.

 

[Qwe]

Good point. She doesn't present too bad now that the skin is nice n clean. Its a very dull white but theres minimal/no deterioration fiberglass wise. Maybe ill forgo the wax for now & continue to explore a paint for protection/preservation.
Have you seen vehicles, (re trucks here in Alberta) painted with a box liner coating? I've been quoted ~$700 to coat my 2007 Nissan Frontier in the past. It's much heavier than any paint but whatever and definitely a DIY option.
Another rabbit hole, sigh.
The only drawback would be resale value, beauty being in the eye of the beholder type thing.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

Good point. She doesn't present too bad now that the skin is nice n clean. Its a very dull white but theres minimal/no deterioration fiberglass wise. Maybe ill forgo the wax for now & continue to explore a paint for protection/preservatio

303 Protectant

 

[Kirk]

The only drawback would be resale value, beauty being in the eye of the beholder type thing.

An RV that is now 27 years old doesn't have a lot of value. You haven't said exactly what it is but I'd guess that in good condition and looking fairly good it might bring between $3000 and $5000, possibly a little bit more if you find the right buyer. Such sales have to be cash as no lender will want to take it as security for a loan.

 

[Qwe]

Ubet. Briefly she's a 1998 Aeolite 21RDB. I liked it for its galvanized frame, double torsion axles, compartments for both 20lb propane bottles & under sink (vented) battery location. I primarily stream fish in the Eastern Slopes of AB, so camping consists of cutlines/dead end "roads" and any grassy spot that's nearby. Moe often then not Knowone for miles. I clamshell a wheel and double lock the hitch but you never know right? Hate to be that way but it's the new reality it seems.

 

[gwinger]

303 Protectant

That's temporary fix. Plus, if the finish is that faded, it may actually make it look worse. Streaks and uneven shine.
Needs to be re-applied every couple months.
I use it religiously on the black plastic pieces and interior.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

That's temporary fix.

At the age and condition of the OP's rig, anything is a temporary fix.

, if the finish is that faded, it may actually make it look worse

My experience with using 303 goes back to my boating days. My boat had black fiberglass gunwales, or the top quarter of the boat, leading up to the top deck. Sitting at a dock in the summer sun and reflecting off the water created havoc with trying to keep a shine on the black fiberglass. I tried every product sold in the boating industry, including acrylic applications (similar to Zep floor wax) and black shoe polish. I spent hours upon hours polishing and "waxing" every year to keep my boat shiny, but within days, the black fiberglass would oxidize and start turning grey. Then I discovered 303! I could easily spray it on, and wipe it off, and it would last weeks. Re-applying took no time at all, just spray and wipe. This was the late 80s, and my boat shone every season until I sold it in the 90s. The fellow who bought it told me he was looking to buy a used boat for a year and a half, and he couldn't believe how good my boat looked. He didn't try to dicker one cent off what I asked for. That's my 35+ years of experience using 303. Oh, and my SIL in Hamilton, Ont. CA that uses it on her seasonal camper, I suggested she use it.

 

[8Muddypaws]

I've found that Awesome Orange from The Dollar Store works better on black streaks than anything else I've tried. 100% better than black streak remover (which burns your skin).

 

[Kirk]

JD Power says it's worth about $2mrms of US dollars so maybe $4000 Canadian. Hard to say for sure but I'd expect something like that for insurance value.

 

[christiesternerz]

Try using a fiberglass cleaner with a soft brush—works well for those black spots. Follow up with a wax to help protect it.

 

[Adventurous Traveler]

Many, many great suggestions from the Forum community. IMHO, what the OP is going to end up doing is to try multiple products until he finds something that does the job to his satisfaction, taking into account it's a 27-year-old TT. That's what I had to do with my boat until I found 303.