Brake controller question

[Jeff in Ferndale Wa]

Prodigy P2 Controller purchased 9/2021
08 F250
2021 Cascade TT

When I manually apply the trailer brakes, I can feel the brakes apply, but they will not stop the TV, even at slower speeds.
I can feel them grab a bit but not like when applying the brake pedal. I've tried all the boost and power settings on the controller
I know the brakes are being applied correctly when using the brake pedal because I just replaced all the brakes on the trailer. They were worn down to the point they needed replacement, so they had been working.
We tested the brakes before reinstalling the wheels (could hear them humming) and I can feel them working when stopping using the brake pedal.

Is it normal for the brakes not to fully apply using the manual slide on the controller?

 

[Bill and Gail]

Here's a link about how to adjust the Prodigy 2:

Google Search

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

That's not real surprising. The trailer brakes are only designed to stop the trailer. not the trailer & TV. And the trailer brakes are sometime marginal in capability. They are sized to the trailer axle rating, not the trailer GVWR, so in a TT like yours it's as little as 90% of the total trailer weight.

That said, check the wiring, especially on the trailer side. Corroded connections and inadequate wire gauge are common problems. Ditto for the TV-to-trailer plug wiring.

 

[Jeff in Ferndale Wa]

Here's a link about how to adjust the Prodigy 2:

Google Search

I did all of that both before and after installing new brakes.

 

[Jeff in Ferndale Wa]

That's not real surprising. The trailer brakes are only designed to stop the trailer. not the trailer & TV. And the trailer brakes are sometime marginal in capability. They are sized to the trailer axle rating, not the trailer GVWR, so in a TT like yours it's as little as 90% of the total trailer weight.

That said, check the wiring, especially on the trailer side. Corroded connections and inadequate wire gauge are common problems. Ditto for the TV-to-trailer plug wiring.

Connections were re-done when the new assemblies were installed.

It feels like more trailer brake power is applied when using the brake pedal rather than the manual on the controller.
For example, while i was playing around with the controller settings, I pulled off the highway to a rest stop. I hit the brake pedal hard and at least one of the trailer brakes locked up briefly. I could not duplicate that with just the manual control.

Maybe that is just because the TV brakes were helping?

 

[SpencerPJ]

Just to be sure, did you adjust the brakes after you installed them, starwheel, backside? Then after a trail run, and all seated well, you might need to adjust a second time.

 

[Jeff in Ferndale Wa]

These are self adjusting. I burnished them according to YouTube videos I found and they all got hot. They are almost impossible to adjust manually

 

[SpencerPJ]

I am not familiar with that style self adjusting. My TT, are simple adjustable drum brakes. Even back in the day, drum brakes, you needed to backup several times, this was part of the self adjusting process and self adjusting concept. Sounds like you watched some videos and are beyond me, good luck, hopefully others will have ideas.

 

[Martian]

Do you have forwards or reverse adjusting brakes? Forward adjusting brakes stay adjusted with no input but reverse adjusting brakes need some reverse braking to adjust.

 

[Jeff in Ferndale Wa]

Do you have forwards or reverse adjusting brakes? Forward adjusting brakes stay adjusted with no input but reverse adjusting brakes need some reverse braking to adjust.

forward adjusting

 

[Martian]

Try a few slightly harder than normal braking applications next time that you hook up. You will probably never get the trailer brake to stop the whole rig the same as the truck brakes but if you can feel a strong tug when you apply the trailer brake lever that will be enough to get you out of a serious sway event if it ever occurs. That is the main purpose of the lever. In big rigs it is called the trolley brake.

 

[Jeff in Ferndale Wa]

Try a few slightly harder than normal braking applications next time that you hook up. You will probably never get the trailer brake to stop the whole rig the same as the truck brakes but if you can feel a strong tug when you apply the trailer brake lever that will be enough to get you out of a serious sway event if it ever occurs. That is the main purpose of the lever. In big rigs it is called the trolley brake.

I've done that. I do feel a tug when I hit the lever. I was concerned that it wasn't enough of a tug.

I thought that the lever could lock up the trailer wheels if the controller was set high enough. The fact that it would not do that made me think something wasn't working right.
( I understand i don't want them to lock up, but thought they could if set too high)

From all the responses I guess they are working normally.

 

[SpencerPJ]

And they might very well continue to work better as they self adjust.

 

[Kirk]

I thought that the lever could lock up the trailer wheels if the controller was set high enough.

With most trailers, that won't happen if on pavement but might if on dirt or some loose surface.

 

[RayIN]

Kirk is correct. You adjust trailer brakes so they begin to lock up on a crushed stone road, then back off one number.
The most common cause of poor electric brake performance is an inadequate ground system.
The way virtually all trailer electric brake wiring is configured, not all brake positions receive the same voltage or amperage. They are daisy-chained so-to-speak, and the wiring inside axle tubes will eventually chaff and create a short..
The ideal wiring on the trailer is an A configuration, with each brake wire being the same length from the trailer plug, like this; however tandem axles will have 4 blue wires of equal lengths to the brake magnets.

.

 

[Lou Schneider]

Kirk is correct. You adjust trailer brakes so they begin to lock up on a crushed stone road, then back off one number.
The most common cause of poor electric brake performance is an inadequate ground system.
The way virtually all trailer electric brake wiring is configured, not all brake positions receive the same voltage or amperage. They are daisy-chained so-to-speak, and the wiring inside axle tubes will eventually chaff and create a short..
The ideal wiring on the trailer is an A configuration, with each brake wire being the same length from the trailer plug, like this; however tandem axles will have 4 blue wires of equal lengths to the brake magnets.

.View attachment 1116423

Another cause is inadequate wire gauge between the controller and the trailer brakes. 30 ft. of 10 gauge wire carrying 20 amps w
ill lose 1.5 volts or 10% of it's voltage by the time it gets to the far end so you'll only get about 10.5 volts at the brakes.

Since power varies at the square of the voltage a 10% voltage drop translates to 20% less braking power.

Increase the wire to 4 gauge and you'll only lose 2.5% of the voltage or about 1/4 volt.