Broken holding tank valve

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Pat

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I think one of my holding tank valves is stuck open.  The T-bar pushes in (with difficulty), but the door, or whatever is inside there, doesn't shut.  When I got here, I took off the outer door to the tank drain to attach the drain hose, and water ran out.  Of course, I cleaned it up right away.  I notice when I open the valve to empty the tank, nothing runs out, which makes me think it's continually emptying, which I don't like to do.  Fortunately it's stuck open and not closed, or this would be more of an emergency.

I want to learn how to change the valve and would like suggestions, helpful hints, warnings, products, or anything else that would help.  I saw some valves at the manufacturer that have a large round knob instead of the T-bar to open and close it.  Any experience and/or opinions? 

Is this going to be difficult?  For the future, is there some way of keeping the valve door clean(er) so it doesn't break as easily?  And so it slides a lot more easily? 

Thanks.

--pat
 

Tom

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Pat

You undo 4 small bolts/nuts and the valve should pull out towards you. Slip the eplacemment back in and insert and tighten the four bolts. the blade of the valve can be lubricated for easy use, although I don't recall if there's a special luibe you need to buy.
 

Pat

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Tom:  Thanks.  I saw the 4 bolts, but I had no idea what to expect after they are removed.  I'm assuming it pulls toward me because the valve is open.  Or should be opened, if I were to remove one that isn't already stuck open. 

Someone mentioned it's difficult to get the replacement valve lined up properly.  I'll probably try to let the job go till I return to Mesa at the end of September.  There's more help if I break something.

--pat
 

Ron

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John In Detroit said:
I'm having visions of the luckless chap who starts said job W/O taking the above sugested precaution.

(Actually I'm laughing)

I was actually told of just such an event by the person performing the change including how he got all the screws removed and did not know the tank was full until he taped on the assembly to loosen the valve.  Not something I would want to do or even be around.
 

Pat

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I had heard that it's very difficult to align the new valve correctly.  I take it that's not the case.  Also, I was just thinking.  It's very difficult to pull or push the T-bar in or out.  I wonder if the handle just came unscrewed from the valve door and the T-bar has been cramming in alongside the door.  I'm concerned that I may have damaged something else in there. 

I want to do this myself to know I can handle it. 

--pat
 

Pat

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"Caveat empty."  Now THAT's funny.  Especially in context here.  I don't think emptying the tank is a problem, since the valve appears to be stuck open.  I pulled the t-bar out today, wiggled it to try to center it, and pushed back in, and it pushed in more easily than it has.  Maybe I closed the door.  Shall run some water in via the saniflush system and then open and see if I hear water flowing.  The last thing I want to do is lock the thing closed.  Not to be indelicate, but no solids go in my holding tank, so the fact that it's stuck open is not a major problem. 

--pat

 

Karl

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Many folks use a transparent elbow to connect to the main drain outlet. Some come with a hose fitting which allows you to back-flush the drain pipes, and allows you to see if the valve is open or closed by looking at the flow. Not many bucks; good investment.
 

Pat

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I bought the transparent drain pipe and couldn't get it to fit my rhino sewer hose.  It sounds like a good piece to have on the drain itself, replacing that black piece that goes from the outlet back past the valves.  I will check out the construction when I replace the valve.

--pat
 

Ron

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Pat said:
I bought the transparent drain pipe and couldn't get it to fit my rhino sewer hose.
--pat

It will fit.  I have one on our Rhino hose.  Use a little dish soap to slicken things up while installing the transparent elbow to the hose.
 

Pat

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Ron:  I tried all sorts of slick things to get the rhino hose onto the clear fitting.  My problem is insufficient hand strength.  I will check with my brother and see if he can help.

--pat
 

Tom

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Pat

Don't mean to suggest the obvious, but I found I couldn't get the fitting into the Rhino hose without first expanding the last few inches of hose. Even then it still needed a little coaxing, although I didn't have to use brute force. I think I inched it on by pulling with my fingertips rather than pushing it on.
 

Pat

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The clear plastic fitting is the piece that attaches to the RV outlet?

Yours had no little knobs or bumps on it?  I think the one I tried did.  I tried getting someone at CampingWorld to put it on, but I think they were busy or something.  I'll work on it when I get back to AZ and can find the fitting I have somewhere.

The "stuck open" valve seems to close, but it still leaks, I believe.  When I open it to dump, I can hear nothing pouring out.  When I run water through the saniflush system, the water drains ok.  Then I close the valve, and run water, and nothing drains, so it seems the valve closes.  Still, there must be a slow leak.  I want to learn to replace it anyway.

--pat
 

Tom

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Pat said:
The clear plastic fitting is the piece that attaches to the RV outlet?

Yes.

Yours had no little knobs or bumps on it? I think the one I tried did.

No bumps. Doesn't sound like the one you tried was meant to slide into a hose. It sounds like the one that accepts another fitting - more like an extension. I have one of those, but wouldn't try to insert it into a hose.
 

Pat

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The CampingWorld rhino hose recommends those grey fittings.  However, and for some reason I will never understand, CampingWorld carries only one end of the fittings.  I had to buy an entire assembly and remove the hose to make up my rhino hose setup.  I needed to combine two to get sufficient length.  Thus, I carry the assembly in the fishing rod case on my toad roof.  Works great.
 
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