Can my truck handle the weight??

[Me&theroad]

I have a 1999 F250 POWERSTROKE WITH RIDE RITE AIRBAGS IN THE REAR, HELWIG BIG WIG SWAY BAR IN THE BACK, TOYO AT3 tires and as many leaf springs that my local suspension shop could fit in. I have a Lance LC300/8.6 CAMPER. IVE ADDED ABOUT 280LBS in solar and battery power plus a domestic fridge. I plan on adding my dirt bike to the front which will add roughly 400lbs including carrier and 2” receiver in the front. I’ve seen F150’s running this type of camper with moderate sag in the rear. Mine seems to be good. Just wondering if anyone else has a similar set up and has been ok.

 

[Ray-IN]

I understand Ford's published load limit for truck campers is lower than the GVWR of the truck. What does your owners manual have to say? If nothing, call Ford customer service for the correct answer.
Nothing you do to the suspension increases its GVWR. It only means the truck is incapable of safely handling the load without them.
The only dry weight I could find was 2241#, then you have added ~280#, then want to add 400# to the front bumper. That is not counting your family, any pets, personal items or camping gear.
You might want to rethink this.

 

[Me&theroad]

When I weighed it last it was at 10600lbs. It’s seems to drive fine and stop pretty good although I always have a healthy following distance.

 

[longhaul]

The truck is good with that size TC with your suspension upgrades...however if your running OEM capacity wheels then I would suggest a upgrade wheels with reserve capacity.
Of course weighing the truck front and rear axle separately is the only way ypu will know if a tire/wheel is over loaded or at max.
I would suspect adding 400 lbs to any LDT truck front axle regardless of age. Balls joints/steering system/front axle bearings/wheels can easily be stressed when over loaded above the truck mfg gawr numbers.

Find your axle weights.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Nothing you do to the suspension increases its GVWR. It only means the truck is incapable of safely handling the load without them.

True, but that's a legalistic statement rather than a practical one. The mods may well have enhanced the load carrying capability to some unknown degree even though the GVW Rating is not and cannot be changed without an engineering certification from a qualified source.

 

[Me&theroad]

Thanks for all the info so far guys. I’ve seen F150’S, Chevy’s and RAM 1500’s all carrying cab over campers with minimal to Moderate sag in the back on the road in places like Joshua Tree, Big Bear and Yosemite and they seem to be doing ok. Just really don’t want to have to build another camper that weighs less at least not for a while

 

[CharlesinGA]

What are the front and rear axle weights (from the scales)? Both with the camper and other gear removed, and with it all ready to camp.

Does the trucks door stickers list the max gross axle weights front and rear.

What are the load ratings of the tires? as molded into the sidewalls.

Following at a "healthy following distance" is not something to depend on for braking performance in an emergency.

Having an exhaust brake probably is a good idea on the steeper grades out west.

As longhaul noted, the wheels (and probably the tires also) may be well above their capacity. Why Getting the Right Aftermarket Wheel Matters

My suggestion is you spend a LOT of time on Truck Camper Adventure and their forums, and Truck Camper Magazine

Charles

 

[Me&theroad]

It’s over the axel ratings, the tires are rated at 3750 each. I’m not sure about the wheels. Also it does have an exhaust brake

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

You've done a lot to upgrade capacity, but there are still some things that are going to be over-stressed (see CharlesinGA reply). We've all seen others do it, but rarely do we ever learn how successful it was, e.g. did their truck suffer more frequent breakdowns or did they get into an accident because they couldn't stop or maneuver quickly enough.

Hard to know how much of the original axle ratings (GAWR) were because of the suspension tires & wheels. And how much of the rating was to reduce early life failures vs immediate failure or safety risk. And now you want to add 400+ additional lbs? I guess you can keep adding load until something breaks. Then you will have your answer.

 

[Mountain high]

It’s over the axel ratings, the tires are rated at 3750 each. I’m not sure about the wheels. Also it does have an exhaust brake

Looks like the original 1999 Firestone Steeltex A/T as a spare. Wonder what it's rated at with the rubber deterioration.

 

[Bearcatrp]

With that much weight, your upgrades may help but wear and tear on axels, tires and transmission may be prone for more costly break downs. Usually at the wrong time. I think you’re pushing your luck. I would look at 5500/550 vehicles that have better weight ratings for front and rear axels. Good luck.

 

[Bigfootford]

The sticker rating is the OEM tire rating x2.
The rear axle is a Dana or Sterling i presume. Go look at that axle rating and you will find that it is well over the rating of the sticker and tire rating.
My 1994 f250 heavy duty has a Dana 80... 11,000 lb capacity.
I too have the swaybar and airlift bags. My tires and rims are 19..5's 4500lbs each.
Loaded my f250 and camper is 10,400 and the rear axle weight with a loaded camper is 6200lbs.
Safe enough for me... Camper, 2000 Bigfoot 9.6 2500 series has over 200,000 miles on it. Two different f250's.
Pix below is before 19.5's.

 

[Derby6]

I think you’re pushing your luck. I would look at 5500/550 vehicles that have better weight ratings for front and rear axels. Good luck.

I’m not sure if he’s good or pushing his luck or not. He’s gotta be close though.
But he does not need a 550 or 5500 for that camper. Even with upgrades and a bike a Newer 350 would do just fine.