Can't get grease gun on driveshaft u joints - '93 Ford E350

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rgnprof

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Jul 27, 2010
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179
Getting a bit frustrated, but I have tried just about every type of grease gun fitting I can find - 90 degree, needle tip, etc and I just can't get my gun on to the zerk on any of my u joints.

I'm looking at removing the 3 part driveshaft just enough to reach the zerks (I had these replaced when I had the transmission replaced about 3 years ago). Any hints or procedure for removing the driveshaft?

thanks, ryan
 
On my truck with a 2 piece driveshaft it's a matter of undoing the carrier bearing bracket and that allows enough bend to get at the zerks. The only caution is to mark the location of the bracket so you keep the same shaft alignment when you reattach the bracket.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Yes, it's a 29 ft Class C on a Ford E350...and yes, I've tried the rubber hose approach. I am really to the point that the only way I see doing this is to drop the driveshaft some...
 
Rotating the shaft also did not allow access and I don't think I can remove some of the zerks either - just no clearance to get a wrench on.

Do I have to completely remove the 3 piece driveshaft? Or can I just loosen and lower some? At the carrier bearing as suggested above?
 
When I've done my 2 piece it comes down to taking the two carrier bearing bracket bolts out and lowering the shaft a foot or so to open up the angle of the joint enough to get the grease nozzle in. The shaft will pull out of the end of the tranny a couple inches but no need to remove in my case. While it's down I spin the shaft around to get at all the joints and spline fittings. That requires one or both rear wheels off the ground so the pinion shaft will turn (tranny in neutral). Not the most convenient process but only once every couple years or so at the rate I put miles on.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Many years ago I had an old Ford I couldn't grease because someone had installed the U-joint backwards.
I had to remove the spider and flip it around, then greasing was much easier. You may have a similar situation.

Kevin

Edit: Note, in this particular scenario the zerk screwed in at a slight angle out of the plane of the bearings. If your zerk is in the same plane as the bearings flipping the spider will make no difference
 
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My diesel pusher has a 24 inch long driveshaft and the "U" joints have TWO zerks per joint,, I assumed ( there's that word again,) that all had to be greased,, found by experimenting that
either at each joint would grease all four of the rollers.. Makes it easier to find one that is "open"
>>>Dan ( Now if I could just get to the zerks on my lawnmower!)
 
We've had a lot of rain here the past few days, but I am going to try and crawl under today. I may post a pic or 2 later...

Thanks for the replies! I am HOPING that I can just undo the carrier bearing bolts and lower the shaft enough to turn and get clearance. Pretty sure I will have to have the rear wheels off the ground to try this - right?
 
No need to have the wheels off the ground if that gives you enough angle. But block the wheels for safety in case your emergency brakes don't hold. The park brake won't function when the driveshaft is loose.
 
We've had a lot of rain here the past few days, but I am going to try and crawl under today. I may post a pic or 2 later...

Thanks for the replies! I am HOPING that I can just undo the carrier bearing bolts and lower the shaft enough to turn and get clearance. Pretty sure I will have to have the rear wheels off the ground to try this - right?
Just one rear wheel should suffice.

But heed well TheBar's advice!! Block your wheels!! Both sides, front and back, so it can't roll either way.

Kevin
 
I am attaching some pics - it looks like to me, according to 84southwind above - that most of these were installed backwards. The most forward joint looks correct (IMG_1270 - 3rd pic) - the one connecting to the transmission, but the others look backward (1266 and 1269 are connected to the center shaft which is shown in the last pic IMG_1271).

So, if I just drop these 2 carrier bearings from the frame, it looks like I should be able to rotate things enough to get a gun on the zerks without having to pull the shaft from the tranny or the rear differential. Is that the proper procedure? What do I exactly mark to make sure I get things back together properly? I just want to make sure I get the center shaft installed exactly in the way it was - right? So what's the best way to mark things?

I know I'm probably making this harder than it is, but just don't want to "cause" problems...

Thanks!
 

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