charging problems with 99 winne

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99winnemike

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Dec 6, 2021
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penna.
i have a new converter/charger, multi meter reads 13.5 v coming out. at the battery end of cables i am only getting a reading of .2 v.. does anyone have any ideas?
 

Ex-Calif

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If the charger is bad it could read 13+ at the charger but not be capable of providing any amperage.

Can you hook up a set of jumper cables to the output and see it there is usable power a the other end?

It would definitely be a remote type failure of a new unit.
 

Isaac-1

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Corrosion, broken wire, or blown fuse are most likely bets, assuming the 13.5VDC at the converter was while the battery was connected.
 

Mark_K5LXP

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There is a connection problem between the converter and the batteries. If the converter is putting out 13V then there should be 13V at the battery end. If the supply is current limited then the voltage would be the same from end to end. Connection in this context can be anything, from a bad termination, loose terminal, something left disconnected, open fuse or circuit breaker, cut wire or combination of these. Question one is did it work before or was this replacement in an effort to solve this problem. If it was doing this before, then you get to troubleshoot the original problem. If this is a new symptom I would look at whatever was last touched to install the converter to see if something was omitted, damaged or misconnected in the process.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 

DonTom

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Auburn, CA or Reno, NV
i have a new converter/charger, multi meter reads 13.5 v coming out. at the battery end of cables i am only getting a reading of .2 v.. does anyone have any ideas?
Is your house battery far from the converter or right next to it where you can easily do some testing?

-Don- Everglades, FL
 

99winnemike

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penna.
the house battery is about5 ft away from the charger. i traced the positive cable to a box in front of the fire wall. the box has 2 solenoids and relays inside. dont know how to test or what to test inside this box, i read 13.5v out of the charger, but only .2 from the battery cables
 

99winnemike

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penna.
i should have checked the output on the old charger before changing. it turns out to be putting 13.5 v. i'm thinking it is something to do with a solenoid or the relay
 

DonTom

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i'm thinking it is something to do with a solenoid or the relay
I wonder why there are relays or solenoids involved between the battery and converter. I would think it would be direct, but I don't know about the Winnie design, so I should let others try to help you from here.

I just cannot see a reason to disconnect the battery from the converter ever, by relay or anything else.

-Don- Everglades, FL
 

CharlesinGA

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50 miles south of Atlanta, GA
What EXACT model of Winnebago? all wiring diagrams, etc are available online, which will help.

Wiring Diagrams

Basically the converter feeds the fuse panel adjacent to it in the power center, and from one of the large terminals on the fuse panel (same one the converter connects to) is a 6 or 8 gauge wire that runs to a rather hidden panel with round white button circuit breakers, one of which is the supply from/to the fuse panel at the power center. From the circuit breaker (40 amp most likely) the power runs to the black flip flop relay that is the house power on and off, which connects to the batteries.

The circuit breakers I am referring to are round white buttons with the amperage on the face of them, light aircraft type breakers like Cessna uses, and there is a row of them. Mine had screws on the back of the breakers loose (and very short in some cases). These breakers are usually mounted in the box with the two relays but facing out and the face will have a cover plate over it concealing the face of the breakers.

If we know the exact model we could help you trace the circuit, for example a Minnie 324W, or a or a Brave WCF29A. You will find this model number in several places in the motorhome.

Charles
 

Ex-Calif

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It's quite likely there are charge and or isolation relays on the firewall. Especially if the charger will also charge the chassis battery.
 

99winnemike

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penna.
i did check the 12 v breakers , none are triped. the inverter is powering the interior lights fine.
It is a winnebago adventurer 34vIMG_2418.JPGIMG_2417.JPG
 

Kirk

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i did check the 12 v breakers , none are triped. the inverter is powering the interior lights fine.
this is where i traced the positive cable to.?

Your converter is supplying power to the lights and a normal voltage out so it is not the problem. If you measure the 13.5 V at one side of that solenoid and not the other (measuring between chassis ground and the able) then that solenoid is not actuated but in studying the solenoid I suspect that the voltage you are reading there is from the chassis and not from your converter. Your coach has a solenoid that connects the output from the chassis 12V system to the coach side when the engine is running. I suspect that if you start the engine you will find that the solenoid does engage. There is probably also an emergency start switch on the dash which can connect the two batteries in parallel to allow the coach battery to power the chassis starter or the chassis battery to start the onboard generator (if you have one). Did you physically trace that cable or just look for a voltage there?

If you look closely at the solenoid in your picture, you will see that the small terminals are labeled brown and purple, where the two yellow wires are connected. The 2 small connections are the control leads to cause the solenoid to close. I am pretty sure that you are looking in the wrong place

What about the solenoid below the one at the top? Have you checked there at all?
 

CharlesinGA

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What about the solenoid below the one at the top? Have you checked there at all?
That is the charge and boost solenoid that connects the engine and house systems together when the engine is running. Those are prone to failure although that is a continuous duty made in USA one, but they still fail.

The top relay is the one operated by the "salesmans switch" by the door, where you turn the batteries on or off. It is a "flip flop" relay that stays where ever it is driven to. There are two fuses in the top of it, in those raised square protrusions. Not likely to fail but could, they are for the power that moves the relay.

OK, looking at the wiring diagrams, the converter positive connects to a standalone insulated stud adjacent to it. (converter is located on the floor forward of the water heater and aft of the kitchen sink) From that insulated stud a black wire runs to a 40 amp standalone breaker (may be manual reset, may be auto reset) that is "located below dash pod" per the drawing. from the circuit breaker a black wire runs to the house on/off relay, that is the black wire we see on the top right terminal with a large red wire and a purple wire. Power passes thru that black house relay to the other side, down to the terminal of the boost solenoid and off that same terminal is the cable to the battery.

Ref https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/1999/130661.pdf

Page 2 bottom half of the page, page 3 bottom center of the page and page 4 lower RH corner of the page.

I'm betting that stand alone 40 amp breaker is tripped. Start looking under the dash for it. It may be rectangular in shape, with two terminals on it and a very tiny push button reset in one end of it.

Charles
 

Kirk

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The top relay is the one operated by the "salesmans switch" by the door, where you turn the batteries on or off. It is a "flip flop" relay that stays where ever it is driven to. There are two fuses in the top of it, in those raised square protrusions. Not likely to fail but could, they are for the power that moves the relay.
Looking at the schematic you linked to it would seem to be that way, other than the fact that the wire colors don't match, but that may not be a problem. I was not aware of the schematics that Winnebago has, which are far superior to what most manufacturers provide. Do you mind sharing how to find those?

That 40a breaker is a possible cause, if the battery disconnect switch is in the use position, not store. However, if he is to measure from chassis ground and the disconnect solenoid is closed, he should then read 12V on either side of the device. If he measures across it, 0V means it is closed.

99winniemike, how about an update.
 

99winnemike

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Dec 6, 2021
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penna.
thank you all for the info. yes it did charge the way it is supposed to until this summer. the only way i knew where the converter/charger was the sound of the fan. this summer i rebuilt the back wall, water leak in roof. fun fun. that is when i figured out the charger was not working any longer. of corse i went the wrong way and bought a new converter/ charger (c/c). this is the rabbit hole i find myself in now.
there are a few things you should know 1 ) I'm computer challenged..2) electricity is not something I have a understanding of. that aside, i am really very appreciative of all of your help. it is a little to cold outside right now to look into to the solenoid or relay. thanks for the wiring diagram that will be of great help.
 

99winnemike

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Dec 6, 2021
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Location
penna.
I did find the 40 amp breaker, it was not tripped. i can't get that lucky. i will persist. i can't beleave that i'm getting the hang of transferring pictures to a forum. i'll take baby steps when they work.IMG_2428.JPGa
 
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