Choosing a Travel Trailer for Retirement Trips with an F-150

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Original Member Title: Too many choices and not enough info on selecting a travel trailer
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A retired couple in Texas is shopping for a travel trailer in the $35,000 to $40,000 range for several long trips and shorter regional trips, using a 2024 F-150 XLT. They had narrowed the search to the NoBo 20.2 and Rockwood 2425FBT, liked both floorplans, and wanted feedback on whether either would be lower maintenance and enjoyable for 5 to 6 years.

Members generally agreed that no RV is maintenance-free and that new trailers often have bugs to work through. Suggestions included...
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Joined
Jul 29, 2026
Posts
12
Location
Magnolia, TX
My wife and I are considering the purchase of a travel trailer to see the US in our retirement years. We are currently 70 years old and want to take a couple of long trips a year (3-4 weeks) and a few short trips to areas near to us in Texas. I have a 20024 F-150 XLT that is rated at around 12,500 lbs. towing capacity (yes, I know there are other considerations to make). Currently we are looking at the Nobo 20.2 and the Rockwood 2425FBT trailers, but there is so much misinformation out there I don't know where to turn. We want to keep the price at 35-40,000 all inclusive.
 
Find a floorplan that you think works online. Then start searching dealers (avoid Camping World) and find a camper that fits you.
THEN make sure that your tow vehicle is enough.

If you buy a camper based on external criteria (money, tow vehicle, storage area, etc) then you will most likely own a camper that you don’t enjoy.
 
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Go to an RV show and tour as many units as possible. Sit on the furniture. Stand in the kitchen and pretend you are cooking. Lay on the bed and sit on the toilet. Stand in the shower. Spend some time in each unit. Visualize yourself cooped up because of adverse weather for several days in the unit with another person or persons.
 
Go to an RV show and tour as many units as possible. Sit on the furniture. Stand in the kitchen and pretend you are cooking. Lay on the bed and sit on the toilet. Stand in the shower. Spend some time in each unit. Visualize yourself cooped up because of adverse weather for several days in the unit with another person or persons.
Pretty much what we did earlier this year at the Houston RV show and how we came up with the two that we did.
 
Blood a floorplan that you think works online. Then start searching dealers (avoid Camping World) and find a camper that fits you.
THEN make sure that your tow vehicle is enough.

If you buy a camper based on external criteria (money, tow vehicle, storage area, etc) then you will most likely own a camper that you don’t enjoy.
We like the floor plan in each of the two mentioned. ust purchased a tow vehicle that could tow either one of these pretty easily.
 
What information is it you're seeking?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
I want to make sure that I purchase a trailer that is lower maintenance and will allow us to enjoy the RV life for at least 5-6 years. I read and see so many horror stories about people who get stuck with trailers that occupy their time with maintenance and problems preventing them from enjoying the benefits of travel.
 
Your truck will probably do OK with that size of a trailer assuming you have done the math on the weights and such and your transmission can handle the load. But, you will need a weight distribution hitch system to tow also. Your truck will also need to be installed with electric trailer brakes, if it is not already. And you will need a 7 pin wiring female plug on the truck for trailer brakes, and all lights, if it does not already have it in place. You cannot get by with a 4 pin plug. The 4 pin runs lights only. You'll need trailer brakes working also.

Whatever fuel mileage you are receiving on your current truck, you can "expect" that to drop to about 9-10 miles per gallon when towing the trailer. Almost every vehicle towing a trailer, diesel or gas of any size vehicle or trailer seems to average between 9 and 11 mpg. So, when that happens, don't be dismayed. Your camper will have a huge front sale that resists wind. The faster you travel, the greater the resistance, dropping fuel mileage even more. Just be aware of the miles per gallon right now if you are in the process of planning future expenses. Yes, vehicles can tow it, but at what cost on fuel?

The next thing you need to consider is the type of camping you are planning on doing. Both of the campers you've selected are not built for off road travel. They are designed for paved road travel, and won't survive if you attempt to travel on dirt, mountain, or wilderness pathways. They just aren't designed for that type of use.

That brings up the next consideration? Are you planning on camping only at sites that provide full hook-ups (water, electric, and sewer), or are you planning on doing boondocking, (or dry camping) with no available water, electric, and sewer), as as some State Parks have ... electric sites only. This decision, up front, will determine what you will deem most important and necessary for future travels. If boondocking (or no electric available camping) is your primary objective, then you'll need to have the camper outfitted with solar power and a good battery bank, or at least a good generator (gas, propane, or diesel). Electric solar powered generators are not truly generators. They are just big rechargeable batteries.

Considering you have narrowed down two different models, the next feature to be concerned about is inside storage. The floor plans may be similar, but they can be quite different in the way storage is built into the unit. Storage space on any camper is limited, and those small spaces fill up quick! More storage is always needed. It does take time to learn how to live on less "stuff" though, but this does come with time. But the more space you have up front is all to your advantage.

Next, consider WHERE the hook-ups are located and where the holding tank pull handles and discharge pipes are located. This can be a real challenge, especially if you are older and you have to actually crawl under the camper to reach the pull handles to dump the tanks. The location of the dump valve handles and the discharge pipes could make a huge difference in your choice of models. Check that out with both models.

Where does the water and electric plug into the camper? How big are the holding tanks. There is a HUGE difference if the black tank (toilet) is a 25 gallon tank or a 50 gallon tank. And a HUGE difference if the fresh water tank is 25, 30, 40, or 50 gallons ... especially if you plan on no water hook-up camp sites. And does the fresh water tank a gravity fill system or is it filled by connecting a garden hose and the spigot water pressure fills the fresh water tank. Each have their advantages and disadvantages, again, depending on the situation of your camp site location.

As far as quality and build of both campers, they are most-probably about the same, as ALL campers are about the same. They are NOT built like automobiles. You WILL have initial warranty issues, you will experience a sense of disappointment and perhaps even anger at the manufacturers for the shoddy craftsmanship of ANY camper you select. It's a very hard and painful learning curve.... they are not built to automobile standards .... nothing like that.

I've covered a bunch of topics, probably not what you were expecting, and perhaps you have already worked your way though all of these things. If you have, that's great!

My best advise for you is two fold: 1) Go visit an RV dealership that sells both models and spend some time in each model. Even have the dealership close the slides and see if you can navigate the camper with slides pulled in. This could also be a deal breaker between one or the other brand. So, physically go, spend time in both campers. Imagine being stuck in the camper when it's raining and you can't get outside. .... how comfortable is the bed? How do the tires look? Do you like the color scheme? Make a list of the the things that you like and the things you don't like and compare the two models. You may find there are some features you can't live with at all and completely reject both models. It's better you do this now than AFTER the purchase.

2) If none of my "ramblings" has helped, and you are looking for a different answer, it would help if you were a little more specific. Exactly what is your biggest concerns about both of these campers. What is your biggest concern personally. Lots of folks on these forums WILL give you some very, very good information and advise.

I do wish you well in your decision making process. And for what it's worth ... I'm 71 year old too.
 
Edit: Dutchman and I were typing at the same time. He makes very good points to consider.

Towing capacity means nothing. The first limitation you will encounter is payload on the tow vehicle. Since you have an XLT model, it is not completely loaded with options, and may have a decent payload. Look at the stickers on your drivers door jam. It is the yellow sticker. There will be a weight for combined cargo and passengers, which also includes the tongue weight of the trailer.

The GVWR of your TRUCK is based on a multitude of factors, such as suspension, brakes, tires, and axle, any one of them could be the weakest link and that is what the manufacturer uses to establish the GVWR and thus arrive at the payload

Whatever trailer you look at, ignore the published tongue weight, instead take the GVWR or Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of the TRAILER and multiple it by 0.13 or 13% (ie. a 6000 lb GVWR trailer x 13% = 780 lb tongue weight. Trailer manufacturers use 10% but this is unrealistic. 13% is more real world. I use GVWR to do the calculations as this is the extreme upper end you will encounter. You MIGHT be less but don't count on it.

Trailer GVWR is specified on the sticker on the front left of the trailer. If you are looking at literature, many manufacturers will try to hide this info or simply not include it in the literature. However you can take the empty weight they almost always give you, and the CCC or cargo carrying capacity, which they also almost always give you, and add those two together to arrive at the GVWR of the trailer. They are trying to fool you into buying a trailer you cannot tow, by giving you low numbers and not giving you the numbers you need.

The Rockwood has 53gal or 424lbs of water while the NoBo has 40 gal or 320lb of water.
The Rockwood has a higher empty weight at 5103lb vs the NoBo at 5003lbs
The Rockwood has a higher CCC at 1807lb vs the NoBo at 1500lbs
The Rockwood has a higher GVWR at 6955lbs vs the NoBo at 6503lbs
The Rockwood has a potential tongue wt of 904 lbs vs the NoBo 845 lbs

Both of these are Forest River Products. They won't last. Even if you take immaculate care of them. you will have issues. They have Lippert POS frames.

Both of these are nearing the capacity of your truck in reality, depending on which engine you have you may do OK, or you may struggle.

Is the trailer going to be stored at home? Under shelter?
Storing a trailer outside is probably the worst thing you can do to it. They WILL leak, and weathering will make more work for you in upkeep and maintenance.

I started out in 2015 buying a 2007 Winnebago view motorhome. I quickly realized that was not the thing for me. In 2018 I bought a 2003 RAM diesel pickup and sometime after that sold the MH. I bought a 2008 Thor trailer and ended up replacing the roof. I used it twice and found other wood rot/leak issues in the floor on the front left. I bought my current trailer in Nov 2019 and in 2020 sold the Thor to a co-worker who wanted a project. He fixed it quick and was going to leave it at his parents place in Colorado, not sure what happened to it.

My current trailer has been with me a long time and a modest number of miles I have cats, just cannot run off and leave them, so I pay a neighbors son to care for them. I have been gone a couple of times for 12 or 13 days, most of my trips are 3 or 4 days.
 
Your truck will probably do OK with that size of a trailer assuming you have done the math on the weights and such and your transmission can handle the load. But, you will need a weight distribution hitch system to tow also. Your truck will also need to be installed with electric trailer brakes, if it is not already. And you will need a 7 pin wiring female plug on the truck for trailer brakes, and all lights, if it does not already have it in place. You cannot get by with a 4 pin plug. The 4 pin runs lights only. You'll need trailer brakes working also.

Whatever fuel mileage you are receiving on your current truck, you can "expect" that to drop to about 9-10 miles per gallon when towing the trailer. Almost every vehicle towing a trailer, diesel or gas of any size vehicle or trailer seems to average between 9 and 11 mpg. So, when that happens, don't be dismayed. Your camper will have a huge front sale that resists wind. The faster you travel, the greater the resistance, dropping fuel mileage even more. Just be aware of the miles per gallon right now if you are in the process of planning future expenses. Yes, vehicles can tow it, but at what cost on fuel?

The next thing you need to consider is the type of camping you are planning on doing. Both of the campers you've selected are not built for off road travel. They are designed for paved road travel, and won't survive if you attempt to travel on dirt, mountain, or wilderness pathways. They just aren't designed for that type of use.

That brings up the next consideration? Are you planning on camping only at sites that provide full hook-ups (water, electric, and sewer), or are you planning on doing boondocking, (or dry camping) with no available water, electric, and sewer), as as some State Parks have ... electric sites only. This decision, up front, will determine what you will deem most important and necessary for future travels. If boondocking (or no electric available camping) is your primary objective, then you'll need to have the camper outfitted with solar power and a good battery bank, or at least a good generator (gas, propane, or diesel). Electric solar powered generators are not truly generators. They are just big rechargeable batteries.

Considering you have narrowed down two different models, the next feature to be concerned about is inside storage. The floor plans may be similar, but they can be quite different in the way storage is built into the unit. Storage space on any camper is limited, and those small spaces fill up quick! More storage is always needed. It does take time to learn how to live on less "stuff" though, but this does come with time. But the more space you have up front is all to your advantage.

Next, consider WHERE the hook-ups are located and where the holding tank pull handles and discharge pipes are located. This can be a real challenge, especially if you are older and you have to actually crawl under the camper to reach the pull handles to dump the tanks. The location of the dump valve handles and the discharge pipes could make a huge difference in your choice of models. Check that out with both models.

Where does the water and electric plug into the camper? How big are the holding tanks. There is a HUGE difference if the black tank (toilet) is a 25 gallon tank or a 50 gallon tank. And a HUGE difference if the fresh water tank is 25, 30, 40, or 50 gallons ... especially if you plan on no water hook-up camp sites. And does the fresh water tank a gravity fill system or is it filled by connecting a garden hose and the spigot water pressure fills the fresh water tank. Each have their advantages and disadvantages, again, depending on the situation of your camp site location.

As far as quality and build of both campers, they are most-probably about the same, as ALL campers are about the same. They are NOT built like automobiles. You WILL have initial warranty issues, you will experience a sense of disappointment and perhaps even anger at the manufacturers for the shoddy craftsmanship of ANY camper you select. It's a very hard and painful learning curve.... they are not built to automobile standards .... nothing like that.

I've covered a bunch of topics, probably not what you were expecting, and perhaps you have already worked your way though all of these things. If you have, that's great!

My best advise for you is two fold: 1) Go visit an RV dealership that sells both models and spend some time in each model. Even have the dealership close the slides and see if you can navigate the camper with slides pulled in. This could also be a deal breaker between one or the other brand. So, physically go, spend time in both campers. Imagine being stuck in the camper when it's raining and you can't get outside. .... how comfortable is the bed? How do the tires look? Do you like the color scheme? Make a list of the the things that you like and the things you don't like and compare the two models. You may find there are some features you can't live with at all and completely reject both models. It's better you do this now than AFTER the purchase.

2) If none of my "ramblings" has helped, and you are looking for a different answer, it would help if you were a little more specific. Exactly what is your biggest concerns about both of these campers. What is your biggest concern personally. Lots of folks on these forums WILL give you some very, very good information and advise.

I do wish you well in your decision making process. And for what it's worth ... I'm 71 year old too.
I appreciate the details of your response. Both of these units are similar in floor plan (couples trailers) and no slides. Fining them at the same dealership (at least where we are) is no bueno. The truck has everything you mention. One of the trailers, the NoBo has Beast Mode (where they come up with these names). Fully independent suspension which includes 400W of solar panels on the roof, a 2,000W inverter with controller, independent suspension (Curt independent suspension technology, which allows each wheel to move independently, reducing jostling and improving stability over rough terrain). The Rockwood has 200 W of solar capability.

I guess I'm looking for people who own these trailers to get their opinions on whether they would buy them again.
 
I think a clarification/adjustment of expectations would help.

All RV's suck in most respects. People don't want to hear that about equipment they spent tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars for but one post you will never read in the forums is my rig has been trouble free since the day I got it. Once you warm up to this reality it becomes easier to focus on floor plans, features and such and looking forward to your plans. As you go you will become accustomed to the maintenance and repairs, and how to mitigate disruptions they can cause.

RV's are entertainment. Consider them 100% loss, the return being memories made. That way when the inevitable failures and problems happen you don't get all hurt about it. Deal with the problem, make more memories. Repeat until you run out of time, interest or money.

Don't get sucked into the warranty scheme. In my view you are better off paying out of pocket to get things repaired than having your rig sit in a lot for months waiting for a 'covered' repair. If you're not handy, become handy. Many things can and will go wrong and that amounts to a lot of lot-languish waiting for service. Forums like this one are great to learn DIY from others.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
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Don't get sucked into the warranty scheme.
And be sure to look for it.

When I purchased my newest motorcycle a couple of months ago (A new Can-Am Origin) they tried to sneak in a two thousand dollar 3-year extended warranty without even asking me. This was when they have the bill in writing and ready to be signed. I caught it before signing and told them to remove it. After they fed me a bunch of BS, they saw they had no choice but to remove it or else I would have walked out.

I wonder how much commission they received on those extended warranties and other BS that they sneak into contracts just before signing.

-Don- Sac Pass, NV
 
I want to make sure that I purchase a trailer that is lower maintenance and will allow us to enjoy the RV life for at least 5-6 years. I read and see so many horror stories about people who get stuck with trailers that occupy their time with maintenance and problems preventing them from enjoying the benefits of travel.
There is no guarantee that any trailer you buy will be maintenance free or even roadworthy for five years. Yes, many are, but that is the luck of the one you buy and the routine maintenance you do to it after the fact. Once you choose the right floor plan, look very, very carefully at the individual unit. Check every seam inside and out. Check the windows. Are they all well sealed? Bring a moisture meter with you and check that too. Look at the finish of the interior. Do all the drawers close smoothly and completely? Do the doors close completely? If there are curtains or blinds, do they open and close smoothly? Are they sewn well and attached well? Does all the plumbing work? Sit on the toilet and climb in the shower. Can you do both easily? Do all the electrical outlets, the microwave, the oven, etc all work? Look in all the storage compartments for signs of water intrusion or rodent infestation. You probably/may find a number of things that you don’t like, and then you have to decide whether you can live with the repairs that will (inevitably) be needed. This is why some people advise buying a unit a year or two old so any deficiencies are identified and fixed. We usually chose to buy new and fix things ourselves! And plan on routine maintenance. Every 6-12 months you need to re-examine every possible point of water egress and make sure things remain sealed.
 
I want to make sure that I purchase a trailer that is lower maintenance and will allow us to enjoy the RV life for at least 5-6 years.
If you are buying new, then before you buy investigate the dealer as any warranty issues must be handled by the dealer and the amount of effort that a dealer puts into the prep for delivering makes a huge difference and some do a lot while others do as little as they can get away with. The dealership is just as important as the brand, and often more important. I have owned RVs nearly all of the past 50 years, purchased both new and used. All of them have had maintenance that must be done regularly and I was able to do most of that myself over the years. No two of our RVs were the same brand and none were perfect, but all were satisfactory with the required maintenance done as recommended. Even if buying used, the selling dealers is still very important both in getting it for a fair price and for proper customer support.
 
High maintenance and low maintenance is highly subjective to each and every owner of any rv. One thing is for sure, no rv is maintenance free. But as a side note rv owners find the need and desire to make their rv their own, which is by itself work.

If you buy a new one, rest assured you will need to work thru some bugs. Be attuned to all the bits and pieces and if you find something that's not quite right, then address it at the earliest convenience.

When Brinkley rvs came on the market, they were more expensive than most sticks and staple rvs and in directly were sold as worry free. As time has now passed they have problems, which has caused many to end back up to the manufacturer to be corrected.

Tiffin rvs, which are pretty high end are now seeing big problems after being sold to one of the mega outlets. If you want to rv and do not wish to fix anything, then rent one or two or three of a different type and get educated on the current state of affairs of the industry struggling to out build junk and send them out to some lot to begin its process of deterioration. Some manage to do this faster than others.

Don't buy a leftover year model. Those lot models are never looked at or taken care of as the elements attacks them.Worse yet the mechanical equipment sitting idle can give you a major headache long term after you attempt to put the stuff in service.
 
I know you said you were 70 years old, but please do... take a floor mat or an exercise mat with you when you go back and look at the trailers. Lay the mat on the ground and crawl under the trailer of your choice, lay on your back and just look up. You may be utterly shocked what you see. Rust, loose screws, sagging underbelly material, holes, access areas for rodents. I know the dealership will probably scream at you, but you really need to examine the under side and make them "fix it" before signing the dotted line! Trust me on this one ... there will be something!
 
If you are willing to spend the extra money, look at Lance travel trailers; Nash and Artic Fox by Northwood Manufacturing; and some of the fiberglass trailers, Escape, and Bigfoot (both of which have the disadvantage of being made in Canada and have import tariffs on them) (Escape is a buy direct from the factory, no dealers, while Bigfoot has a dealer system in the US.)

The Lance 2075 is almost exactly the same as the two you are looking at.

The Northwood products all have slides except for the smallest ones. The Escape and Bigfoot units do not have slides.

Things you may not realize. The NoBo has a gas only tankless water heater. Many (most people hate them, ask DonTom) and dealers in many cases, if there is space, will remove them and install a standard 6 gal tank type water heater, pretty much an essential item if camping without water and sewer hookups) Tankless water heaters burn up YOUR LP/propane. No electric that you can utilize the campground power to heat the water.

The Rockwood has a standard 6 gal tank gas/elect water heater (which is part of that 53 gal water capacity)

Probably over half of the places I have stayed do not have any hookups. These are usually Federal campgrounds as I have encountered on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Many state parks have electric and water and no sewer Though some states are spending money to revamp their campgrounds and are installing sewer, water and 20/30/50 amp electric, such as Cheaha State Park in Alabama where I stayed a couple of months ago.
 
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Your first RV is never your last RV. Buy something cheaper and live with it a year to figure out what you really need.
Truth!

My first was an opportunistic Class A 31 foot. I lived in it for a year and road tripped maybe 20k miles. I learned what I don't like.

I like travel trailer. If the tow vehicle gets old buy a new one. If the trailer gets old buy a new one. The downside is I can't tow my fishing boat. Bah.

Go look at a bunch. Buy gently used the first time.

I like 1 slide (dinette). I like a Murphy bed. Mine (25 foot) converts to a sofa and really opens the place up.

I like a bunkhouse. I have "occasional" joiners and not having to convert a dinette or sofa is great. Grandkids? When no one joins store junk there.

Get in the shower. Make sure you can move around. My first was a closet. I ended up hating it!

Also shower opened to salon. Not ideal.

Current one has a privacy door that encloses sink, vanity, head and shower. Like a real bathroom.

Go out and look at a lot. Keep a mental and written note of things you like.

Hope these thoughts help.
 

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