Cleanout installed for my RV at home.

[Bobtop46]

I recently had my septic tank pumped out.  I wasn't having any issues but wanted to be safe. I inherited the house from my Meme in 2013.  While the cover was off I talked to the septic tank guy about adding a clean out.  He recommended 6" pipe because all the septic tank companies use 4" hose.  I asked where to put it he said in the upper corner of the lid.

So I attached a 6" flange to the corner of the lid glued in the right length of 6" pipe, the just pushed on a 6" to 4" reducer on top of the 6" pipe.  When I pump again I (myself) will dig down around the cleanout far enough to tap the reducer off and have the septic tank company pump the tank.  In the mean time I can park the RV in the driveway and dump tanks if needed. 

I put a bead of silicone around the outside bottom edge of the flange to prevent dirt or liquid from getting into the tank.  Tomorrow I will fill in the hole once the caulk dries. 

 

[NY_Dutch]

The sewage inlet should be below the top scum layer in the tank not above it. The standard inlet from the house is baffled for that purpose. I added a sanitary 'T' to my 4" inlet line with a riser and clean out for our RV site.

 

[Lou Schneider]

Don't dump into that cleanout, it's no different than removing the tank lid and dumping directly into the tank.  You'll break up the scum layer and send it downstream into the drainfield, clogging it up.

NY_Dutch has the right answer.  Tee into the sewer line coming out of the house so the incoming effluent can pass through the inlet baffle, leaving the scum intact.

 

[Utclmjmpr]

I installed my septic system 19 years ago and it's well maintained,,never have had any problem or needed pumping in that time,, I think it's all about what goes in and how well it's maintained..>>>Dan  ( The perk in this area is not all that great,, so when the heath dept. wanted a 1000 gallon tank and a 40 foot leach field,, I installed a 1400 tank and a 65 foot field,, works for me.>>>D)

 

[Isaac-1]

In my experience at least in my climate (western Louisiana), septic tanks require periodic pumping out, though that may be every 20-25 years in many cases.

 

[NY_Dutch]

It occurs to me that Bobtop may be able to rectify his setup while still keeping the current convenience. He could just add a length of 4" pipe from the underside of the 6" to 4" adapter that extends below the scum layer. Without seeing his adapter I'm not sure exactly how to attach the pipe, but I'm sure he can solve that.

 

[Utclmjmpr]

Would'nt that always keep the same level of waste in the pipe that's in the tank.??.>>>D

 

[NY_Dutch]

Would'nt that always keep the same level of waste in the pipe that's in the tank.??.>>>D

Yes, but the idea is to introduce the new effluent below the scum layer rather than on top of it where the force can stir it up and possibly allow it to enter the leech field where it can clog the perforated pipes.

 

[Rene T]

Yes, but the idea is to introduce the new effluent below the scum layer rather than on top of it where the force can stir it up and possibly allow it to enter the leech field where it can clog the perforated pipes.

On my 1500 gallon tank, the pipe from the house enters the tank above the scum.  No elbows or anything. When it runs out, it hits a baffle which is part of the tank top. At the outlet of the tank, there is another baffle which stops the scum from going into my leach field so I don't see any issues with the way the OP has installed his dump port.
The reason I know that because my system backed up one time. my septic guy came in and down through the inspection hole, we saw that when the guy installed the pipe from the house, he cut the pipe off with a saw and left all the burrs inside the pipe. The paper hung up on the burrs and plugged the pipe. All my guy did did was remove the burrs and out it came. No more issues.

The only concern I would have is the amount of water which would enter the tank all at once possibly filling the tank right up to the top and the some scum getting to the leach field.

 

[NY_Dutch]

Most standard septic tanks have the inlet at or above the scum layer, and the baffle keeps the inrush from disturbing the scum. Some baffles are attached to the tank walls, some are attached to the tank top, and others are part of the inlet and outlet piping as shown in the drawing I posted. As long as the baffle is doing its job, the design doesn't matter.

 

[Henry J Fate]

As Rene has stated, the flow rate of a black water dump would exceed any volume expected from normal use and would probably turn out to be the biggest issue. The op does have control over this with his dump valve if carefully managed.

It would be best to tee it in on the house side inlet but that will not change the flow concern. Installing a 4 in pipe through the 6 inch service hole is something that may work but it depends on the location of the service hole in relationship to the outlet. It is important that the inlet is as far from the outlet as possible with residential tanks. This gives the solids plenty of space to stay away from the outlet preventing blockages and settling in somewhere else.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Adding to what Dutch explained...
Some tanks have baffles to prevent the fresh solids from immediately exiting the tank into the leach field. From what I've read, that seems to be common these days.  Older septic tanks like mine use entry and exit pipes that extend well below the surface to accomplish the same thing.  That's a simpler, i.e. less expensive, method but maybe the baffles are more effective?  Or it may simply be a difference in what the local plumbing codes require.

 

[lynnmor]

I installed my septic system 19 years ago and it's well maintained,,never have had any problem or needed pumping in that time,, I think it's all about what goes in and how well it's maintained.

Now that is funny!  You did nothing and called it "well maintained".  Because of folks not maintaining their systems, laws have been passed in many areas to require pumping every few years.

 

[NY_Dutch]

Adding to what Dutch explained...
Some tanks have baffles to prevent the fresh solids from immediately exiting the tank into the leach field. From what I've read, that seems to be common these days.  Older septic tanks like mine use entry and exit pipes that extend well below the surface to accomplish the same thing.  That's a simpler, i.e. less expensive, method but maybe the baffles are more effective?  Or it may simply be a difference in what the local plumbing codes require.

It's just different ways of accomplishing the same thing, introducing the new effluent below the scum layer so it's not disturbed, allowing time for the solids to rise or settle before reaching the outlet.

 

[Bobtop46]

Thanks everyone for the input.  This Tank was installed in 1974.  My Meme had it pumped once in that time, that we know of.  I got the house in 2013 and this is the first time I pumped it.  Much to my surprise there was little to no scum line, just water and a few floaters.  As I mentioned in the original post the scum layer was very small also, only a couple inches at the bottom.  I did this project on the advice of the septic guy and I don't see the need to dump at home. I told the septic guy that I put Ridex in regularly, and he said, only if it makes you feel better. Basically, like we tell people here, water is your friend.  I usually park it with only last days travel business in it (after dumping that morning, and adding primer water back).  Normally, just a few #1's. 

The only way I can see needing to dump is if 2 sets of guests stay with us at the same time, and the wife and I stay in the RV, or if a major power outage after a hurricane.  After a Hurricane would only be after being allowed back in the area, because we wouldn't be here.  The RV is normally within 4 hours of departure for this reason.  I always park with enough (stabilized) gas to bug out (OP61-18).  We just have to load food, some clothes, shut down the sticks bricks (OP21-3), and go.

P.S.  The outlet is on the far (other end of the tank) this is in the opposite far corner giving the solids time to float before reaching the other side.  Dumping from the RV would be mostly broken down material. We use the proper paper and lots of water. 

 

[Bobtop46]

The sewage inlet should be below the top scum layer in the tank not above it. The standard inlet from the house is baffled for that purpose. I added a sanitary 'T' to my 4" inlet line with a riser and clean out for our RV site.

Thanks for the info, The septic guy said that you can't pump out from and inlet 4" T, requiring the tank to be opened up.  From your picture my tank has neither "observation" riser.  I am in the target area for a Florida program (now broke) to upgrade septic tanks in my county (Marion County, 120,000 septic tanks). If/when they fund the program again I will apply to have my tank/leach field upgraded with the $10,000, until then I will make do with this 46 year old system and keep in mind the precautions posted by members here.

 

[Bobtop46]

On my 1500 gallon tank, the pipe from the house enters the tank above the scum.  No elbows or anything. When it runs out, it hits a baffle which is part of the tank top. At the outlet of the tank, there is another baffle which stops the scum from going into my leach field so I don't see any issues with the way the OP has installed his dump port.
The reason I know that because my system backed up one time. my septic guy came in and down through the inspection hole, we saw that when the guy installed the pipe from the house, he cut the pipe off with a saw and left all the burrs inside the pipe. The paper hung up on the burrs and plugged the pipe. All my guy did did was remove the burrs and out it came. No more issues.

The only concern I would have is the amount of water which would enter the tank all at once possibly filling the tank right up to the top and the some scum getting to the leach field.

)

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

It's tough to generalize about septics - too much depends on the amounts and types of wastes that get flushed through it, the chemical composition of the water, even the soaps and shampoos people use.  Under ideal conditions, a tank should never need pumping, but more often than not every 5-10 years is common. I know of an area in coastal Virginia where local law requires that every septic get pumped every 5 years, though I find the official reasoning behind it to be dubious.
My septic is about 45 years old and still functions adequately, though the leach field is clogged with tree roots and drains slowly. With just us two oldtimers in the house it's not a problem, but I'm guessing a younger family would soon have issues.

 

[Bobtop46]

Adding to what Dutch explained...
Some tanks have baffles to prevent the fresh solids from immediately exiting the tank into the leach field. From what I've read, that seems to be common these days.  Older septic tanks like mine use entry and exit pipes that extend well below the surface to accomplish the same thing.  That's a simpler, i.e. less expensive, method but maybe the baffles are more effective?  Or it may simply be a difference in what the local plumbing codes require.

This is how my tank is. The entry and exit pipes are well below the surface.  Perk in our county is very good, basically sand. Solids float, water stays in the middle, and crud sinks to the bottom.  We have a fine screen at the kitchen sink, emptied daily, dishwasher has a chopper and screens.  We use the same rules at home as we use in the RV for the toilet. The shower and bathroom sink are mostly greywater, with occasional hair clog.  Grrrr.

 

[Bobtop46]

It's tough to generalize about septics - too much depends on the amounts and types of wastes that get flushed through it, the chemical composition of the water, even the soaps and shampoos people use.  Under ideal conditions, a tank should never need pumping, but more often than not every 5-10 years is common. I know of an area in coastal Virginia where local law requires that every septic get pumped every 5 years, though I find the official reasoning behind it to be dubious.
My septic is about 45 years old and still functions adequately, though the leach field is clogged with tree roots and drains slowly. With just us two oldtimers in the house it's not a problem, but I'm guessing a younger family would soon have issues.

I agree.  It is just the DW and me (late 50's), in 852 SQ FT of no mortgage bliss.  The backyard neighbor (older woman 80's+) just had her system back up, after I pumped)  She lives there alone, but has only been in the house a few years.  No record of any pumping.  She had to have the tank pumped and a new leach field, $5K.  Same thing happened to another woman a few houses down a couple years ago.  Part of the reason I pumped was to see where I was at.  The septic guy said it had been pumped at least once because of the marks on the lid to pry it open, a corner chipped up. I live in a retirement community (no golf course) that is slowly changing over to a bedroom community of Ocala.  As the older original residents pass on the heirs sell the houses to other older northern transplants or younger families.