Coleman Mach Overload Protector

[Tim98TA]

I'm having trouble locating the overload protector for my Coleman Mach HVAC.
Model number is 48254C869
The OEM part, 1450-0521 is no longer available. I was given a part number of CRA-4794-133 by AirXcel, but I can't find that one either.
Has anyone had this issue and been able to find a replacement and/or crossover part??

 

[Hvactech]

Use the compressor brand & model and go to a HVAC supply and they can get you an overload for that compressor.
my question is, is the overload bad OR is it doing its job and opening the circuit when the compressor pulls TOO many amps ?

 

[Tim98TA]

My question is, is the overload bad OR is it doing its job and opening the circuit when the compressor pulls TOO many amps ?

Compressor tries to kick on for maybe 1-2 seconds. Overload tests good though.
I also bought a new start capacitor, but I want to change them both at the same time to rule out the compressor being bad or good. Spending $50 to try it is better than spending $1000 and not knowing.

 

[workinonit]

I think that's a bad number someone gave you. I seriously doubt anything is wrong with that part. It's nothing but a contact. How does that device activate? I'm guessing if that OL device was bad the compressor wouldn't try to start. I would think that's wired into the start circuit. Sounds like the compressor is locked up. I would replace the start capacitor and get a Hot Shot to add to the start circuit and see if you can get it to roll that way. Regardless, even if you do you will be replacing that compressor at some point.

 

[Tim98TA]

I think that's a bad number someone gave you.

This is what was given to me by Airxcel.

 

[Hvactech]

Compressor tries to kick on for maybe 1-2 seconds. Overload tests good though.
I also bought a new start capacitor, but I want to change them both at the same time to rule out the compressor being bad or good. Spending $50 to try it is better than spending $1000 and not knowing.

You want to replace the RUN capacitor and see if it starts not a start capacitor. The RUN capacitor is the shiny metal one ( sometimes grey plastic) wired to the Run & Start winding and Start caps are black

 

[workinonit]

You want to replace the RUN capacitor and see if it starts not a start capacitor. The RUN capacitor is the shiny metal one ( sometimes grey plastic) wired to the Run & Start winding and Start caps are black

Please explain your logic because apparently I've been doing this wrong for 40 years. Start caps are about 6 times larger in capacity than the run caps and oddly enough the start caps are in the start circuits on AC compressors and run caps are in the run circuit. If you install a Hot Shot, it is installed in the start circuit parallel to the START cap not the run cap. Granted that a lot of these caps are 3 terminal that are start/run combined. In that case both would have to be changed.

 

[old RV guy]

A hard start capacitor is used in residential systems to boost the life of struggling compressors. You might consider going with a soft start capacitor, it will do what a hard start does and augment the run capacitor. I think hvactech is spot on, if your overload protector is bad it wouldn't be shutting the compressor down. Too, if you buy the soft start and it turns out you have a bad compressor, you can install it in a new unit, they work miracles in reducing the draw on your RV's electrical system. They're a must for 30 amp systems.

 

[Hvactech]

Unless your metering devices on the evaporator coil is a hard shut off TXV a START cap & RELAY are not needed ,usually. The RUN capacitor MUST be in the circuit for a single phase semi -hermetic compressor to START. After the compressor motor is up to about 70% of operating RPM ,back EMF ( electro motive force, the motor is becoming a generator now ) in simple terms causes the RUN capacitor to open the circuit wired from RUN to START . .
RUN caps are one size & voltage rating such as 35 mfd 370 volts and start caps have a range like 88-108 mfd and are used with a relay that upon start up takes it out of the circuit within 7 seconds or the factory smoke valve opens. Those 2 wire “ boosters “ are just boosters & not true hard start components. I wouldn’t use them , always a relay & start cap if needed is my way. If you need extra start accessories on a capillary tube AC ( which most all RV AC's are) you probably have a compressor on the last leg, but could be other things such as low voltage for example. But what do I know ?