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1930

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I bought a camper I am learning about.

Evidently it had a propane refrigerator originally that was removed, Im guessing it was removed cause the previous owner knew nothing about it and didnt want to spend any money or time so he threw in an electric.

Im planning to use the camper in the deep woods, ( prob just on the weekends for now but that might change ) no electricity or water, Im guessing it sure would be nice not to have to worry about having a generator on all night just to keep my food cold.

Im guessing that a propane refrigerator dosent consume a ridiculous amount of propane and Id be a dummy not to find one and install it?

What do you guys think?

How might I go about finding a fridge that will fit my hole properly, I dont like the modified look, I like things to look correct and dont want to get into modifying my interior to accommodate a smaller or larger fridge.

Do you guys think used is safe? I dont have endless amount of cash.

Thanks, it is an 88 Sunline
 

1930

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1930 said:
I bought a camper I am learning about.

Evidently it had a propane refrigerator originally that was removed, Im guessing it was removed cause the previous owner knew nothing about it and didnt want to spend any money or time so he threw in an electric.

Im planning to use the camper in the deep woods, ( prob just on the weekends for now but that might change ) no electricity or water, Im guessing it sure would be nice not to have to worry about having a generator on all night just to keep my food cold.

Im guessing that a propane refrigerator dosent consume a ridiculous amount of propane and Id be a dummy not to find one and install it?

What do you guys think?

How might I go about finding a fridge that will fit my hole properly, I dont like the modified look, I like things to look correct and dont want to get into modifying my interior to accommodate a smaller or larger fridge.

Do you guys think used is safe? I dont have endless amount of cash.

Thanks, it is an 88 Sunline

Ive looked online and they want to know a cubic foot, the fridge that is in there now is approx 43 high by maybe 20ish wide, not sure how that translates?

Assuming you guys think I should be in the market for one Id like to find one thats as basic/simple/no frills as possible cause thats what I like, I dont need icecubes.

What can you guys suggest?
 

1930

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Looking more thru the camper I have found a binder with what appears to be all the original manuals for the camper. Whomever bought this originally was a seemingly decent thorough guy, he kept some records that are already helping me and it is appreciated.

Evidently I had a Dometic RM 2501 originally, lots of paperwork now to prove this.

Is this exact unit still avail and of not what might be a suitable replacement?
 

DearMissMermaid

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I found this PDF chart that shows replacing an RM 2501 with an RM2510 for exact sizing.

I have attached the PDF file for you that shows this. ;)

The replacement cost may be a sticker shock. My friend recently went through this, and paid a bloody fortune to outfit his used van camper with the exact replacement, but he is thrilled he did because the propane/electric option means the food stays super cold while traveling or boondocking. While he was freaking out about the cost I kept saying... but you LOVE food and travel and if you want to enjoy that, you just have to put up the cash and remember to take good care of it so it's the first and last fridge you buy. :)

New for sale, Dometic RM2510
http://www.rvpartscountry.com/Compact-2510.2R-5-Cubic-Ft-Dometic-RV-Refrigerator.html

It's important you run the fridge while LEVEL. If you are parking for more than 5 minutes on a non-level situation, then turn the fridge off until you are parked level or driving down the road. Being level while driving doesn't matter, because the fridge chemicals can circulate while bouncing down the highway, just that when you are parked crooked, it doesn't work right.

It's the number one failure of propane fridges, people that ran them while parked crooked (non level). It's a slow death, not immediate. But one day you wake up to a dead fridge. So if you bite the bullet and put in the awesome propane fridge... take GOOD care of it to shut it off when you are not parked level. Basically you have to be "comfortably" level. So if it's level enough for you to live in comfortably, the it's level enough for the fussy propane fridge. That is just the nature of the beast.




 

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SpencerPJ

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1930 said:
Looking more thru the camper I have found a binder with what appears to be all the original manuals for the camper. Whomever bought this originally was a seemingly decent thorough guy, he kept some records that are already helping me and it is appreciated.

Evidently I had a Dometic RM 2501 originally, lots of paperwork now to prove this.

Is this exact unit still avail and of not what might be a suitable replacement?

That's great you have manuals. 

Yes, you can get the RM2501, refurbished on ebay for under $600.
Truth is, any Refridge that will fit in the spot will work (within reason).  You might do a quick Google search in the local area you are, and look up RV Salvage.  Maybe pick up a used one pretty cheap, or check Craigslist, maybe someone is parting one out.
 

1930

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DearMissMermaid said:
I found this PDF chart that shows replacing an RM 2501 with an RM2510 for exact sizing.

I have attached the PDF file for you that shows this. ;)

The replacement cost may be a sticker shock. My friend recently went through this, and paid a bloody fortune to outfit his used van camper with the exact replacement, but he is thrilled he did because the propane/electric option means the food stays super cold while traveling or boondocking. While he was freaking out about the cost I kept saying... but you LOVE food and travel and if you want to enjoy that, you just have to put up the cash and remember to take good care of it so it's the first and last fridge you buy. :)

New for sale, Dometic RM2510
http://www.rvpartscountry.com/Compact-2510.2R-5-Cubic-Ft-Dometic-RV-Refrigerator.html

It's important you run the fridge while LEVEL. If you are parking for more than 5 minutes on a non-level situation, then turn the fridge off until you are parked level or driving down the road. Being level while driving doesn't matter, because the fridge chemicals can circulate while bouncing down the highway, just that when you are parked crooked, it doesn't work right.

It's the number one failure of propane fridges, people that ran them while parked crooked (non level). It's a slow death, not immediate. But one day you wake up to a dead fridge. So if you bite the bullet and put in the awesome propane fridge... take GOOD care of it to shut it off when you are not parked level. Basically you have to be "comfortably" level. So if it's level enough for you to live in comfortably, the it's level enough for the fussy propane fridge. That is just the nature of the beast.

That still hurts but thanks
 

1930

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spencerpj said:
That's great you have manuals. 

Yes, you can get the RM2501, refurbished on ebay for under $600.
Truth is, any Refridge that will fit in the spot will work (within reason).  You might do a quick Google search in the local area you are, and look up RV Salvage.  Maybe pick up a used one pretty cheap, or check Craigslist, maybe someone is parting one out.
Thats more like it, wish I had a trade in but Im also wondering where is the picture of the entire fridge, seems like they are only showing the backside?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Cooling-unit-RM2500-RM2501-405-after-100-rebate-Amish-Built/392053500826?epid=7019959064&hash=item5b4835ab9a:g:AewAAMXQWzNSpOrK:rk:1:pf:0
 

Rene T

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1930 said:
Thats more like it, wish I had a trade in but Im also wondering where is the picture of the entire fridge, seems like they are only showing the backside?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Cooling-unit-RM2500-RM2501-405-after-100-rebate-Amish-Built/392053500826?epid=7019959064&hash=item5b4835ab9a:g:AewAAMXQWzNSpOrK:rk:1:pf:0

If you had a propane fridge and it died, this is what you would buy. It is a replacement cooling unit. You would still keep the original box.
 

SpencerPJ

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1930 said:
Thats more like it, wish I had a trade in but Im also wondering where is the picture of the entire fridge, seems like they are only showing the backside?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Cooling-unit-RM2500-RM2501-405-after-100-rebate-Amish-Built/392053500826?epid=7019959064&hash=item5b4835ab9a:g:AewAAMXQWzNSpOrK:rk:1:pf:0

Yup, I gave bad advise, this is just a replacement part.  NOT the whole fridge. 

Here is a cheap little guy, maybe would work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-way-Mini-Propane-Refrigerator-AC-DC-LP-Gas-Cooler-Off-Grid-Home-Camper-Van-/112653343601
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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The RM2501 was a 5.5 cu ft fridge and could be replaced with a Norcold N510 or N512 as well as the Dometic models in the chart Mermaid supplied. Any of the replacement models may need minor cabinet work to fit in neatly, but they all should go in ok.

There are RV salvage yards in most regions, so you could get a used fridge from one of them. Most used RV parts aren't inexpensive, though, and a used fridge is chancy.  Even assuming it works fine on Day 1, it could fail at most any time. External rust and internal corrosion are major enemies and they don't stop just because the fridge is turned off and sitting in a junk yard.  I wouldn't spend more than $100 on a used fridge, even if it came with a guarantee of some sort.
 

1930

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I dont think Im gonna chance a used unit. Too think a 30 year old fridge would not be an issue would be a bit optimistic in my opinion.

If anyone has any reccomendations on a replacement unit that dosent cost 2000 I would like to hear it. Thanks
 

Isaac-1

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Keep in mind failed RV refrigerators are a known cause of fires.  Over time the coolant loop tubing corrodes out, which then lets the flammable contents reach the propane burner and whoosh.

This is also why it is important to inspect the tubing on the back side of your RV fridge from time to time to look for signs of leaks on or around the tubing (mustard yellow looking residue)
 

kdbgoat

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Be aware that even when running on propane, the fridge will need 12 volts DC, as will most other things in the camper. You will need a way to keep the battery (s) charged.
 

1930

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kdbgoat said:
Be aware that even when running on propane, the fridge will need 12 volts DC, as will most other things in the camper. You will need a way to keep the battery (s) charged.
Thanks, I understand, at this point Im out there a weekend at a time but I do have a generator just in case
 

1930

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SpencerPJ said:
That's great you have manuals. 

Yes, you can get the RM2501, refurbished on ebay for under $600.
Truth is, any Refridge that will fit in the spot will work (within reason).  You might do a quick Google search in the local area you are, and look up RV Salvage.  Maybe pick up a used one pretty cheap, or check Craigslist, maybe someone is parting one out.

I tried your suggestion and I was surprised to see Craigslist has quite a few, whether they are a good value or not is anybodies guess.

One guy said if you plug his in than it will freeze things but unsure about the propane part? I dont know if one would work and not the other?
 

1930

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I ended up getting a Norcold fridge from a local supplier of supposed scratch and dent RV appliances and Rv/truck related stuff.

Its brand new https://postimg.cc/WtzYC1Np https://postimg.cc/SjP1hbR6 https://postimg.cc/WDSSYQxJ and has a whopping 1 year warranty.

I see online its a 1500 fridge and I paid 400 dollars for it. I see no dents or scratches.

Some of the RV fridges he had in there were humongous.

Not to sure how this fridge is gonna work out for me seeing how Im only there for now on the weekends I.E by the time I turn it on it will prob be cold by the time I leave but Ill see what happens.

Im having a hard time understanding the opening on the back of my refrigerator? The louvered door.

My fridge sits on top of my heater and behind all of that is a louvered door that is opened from the outside. How does my heat not escape out those louvers as fast as its able?

What am I missing? https://postimg.cc/F7JWFCk2
 

Isaac-1

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You should have 2 openings, one at the bottom that we see in the photo, and one above either on the roof, or on the side wall if the refrigerator is mounted in a slide.  This is how the refrigerator cooling action disipates heat and allows the interior of the refrigerator to cool.  Convective heat induces a draft and allows this to work.  There should also be a solid shelf under the refrigerator to separate it from the furnace.  It helps to understand how the process works, this video is an oversimplification, but should give you an idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy1W-uWvR9U

As to running on the weekends, you may want to leave it running all week, and add a small solar panel to keep the battery charged while you are not there.  A 100 watt panel should just about keep up with the demands of a typical RV refrigerators DC load.  So something like:  https://smile.amazon.com/WindyNation-Off-Grid-Controller-Connectors-Mounting/dp/B00JML23X0/  though a 200 watt setup would be better as 100 watts may be marginal with shorter winter days, particularly if you are in a partly shaded location.  something like https://smile.amazon.com/WindyNation-200-Watt-Solar-Panel/dp/B00JK12544/

Ike
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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The louvered lower vent acts as in inlet, not a outlet. The heat rises and escape through a roof vent. Without a continual air flow in the bottom and out the top, an absorption fridge cannot function.


The heater is an initiator for the cooling process, making the coolant a vapor that rises to the top of the tubing, where it is cooled to convert it back a liquid. The liquid trickles down the tunes where it then re-evaporates to gaseous state, drawing heat from the box and thus cooling to fridge. Then the gas condenses once more and returns to the boiler, where the heater boils it back to gas, starting the cycle all over again.
 

1930

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Thanks, I understand the vents are there to help the refrigerator do its job AKA it needs an inlet to help cool, I just still dont see how the furnaces heat isnt escaping out those vents to some degree as well.


Ill just have to accept that the vents act solely as an inlet and move on I guess.
 

1930

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Isaac-1 said:
You should have 2 openings, one at the bottom that we see in the photo, and one above either on the roof, or on the side wall if the refrigerator is mounted in a slide.  This is how the refrigerator cooling action disipates heat and allows the interior of the refrigerator to cool.  Convective heat induces a draft and allows this to work.  There should also be a solid shelf under the refrigerator to separate it from the furnace.  It helps to understand how the process works, this video is an oversimplification, but should give you an idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy1W-uWvR9U

As to running on the weekends, you may want to leave it running all week, and add a small solar panel to keep the battery charged while you are not there.  A 100 watt panel should just about keep up with the demands of a typical RV refrigerators DC load.  So something like:  https://smile.amazon.com/WindyNation-Off-Grid-Controller-Connectors-Mounting/dp/B00JML23X0/  though a 200 watt setup would be better as 100 watts may be marginal with shorter winter days, particularly if you are in a partly shaded location.  something like https://smile.amazon.com/WindyNation-200-Watt-Solar-Panel/dp/B00JK12544/

Ike

I plan to park camper at my property and prob not move it for several years, Im sure there is a science to where to park it and Ill assume it would be common sense not to park it in direct sun?

My property is not super  heavily wooded, alot of pine trees which do not provide much shade.....maybe try and find the shadiest spot and then worry about getting solar power from a sunnier area?

What can you say?
 

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