Crockpot cooking while traveling

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sanway

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Nov 9, 2012
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Morning, has anyone used the cigarette lighter adapter to cook the crockpot while you are on the road? Any pros and cons welcome.  Thank you  ::)
 
Better make sure it can stand the amount of current the crockpot draws. Most such plugs are rather light duty. I presume you'll use an inverter (or did you find a 12V crockpot?) and it isn't 100% efficient, so you'll also need to take its losses into account, as well as its capacity to provide enough current for the pot.
 
I have used a small 200 watt inverter plugged into the 12volt socket, then plugged my 200 watt slow cooker crockpot (which is also 200 watt) into the inverter and let it cook while I drove. My two crockpots both have regular 110 cords.

I used a regular 110 extenstion cord from the inverter to the crockpot, so I could set the crockpot in the sink on a piece of rubber shelf liner (so it wouldn't clang against the sink). I also stuffed a towel between the crockpot and the sink, so it was wedged in there.  I used a piece of string to tie the lid down to the handles. My thinking was if I was forced to slam on brakes or make a weird maneuver to avoid a wreck, I wouldn't be hit with hot flying food. Also, should the crockpot slop over (some meals create a lot of liquid while they cook) then it would slosh down the drain.

If you have a 12volt crockpot, then it should work fine, just plug into the 12 volt socket. But for safety's sake, i would place the crockpot inside a tub or bucket or sink and have it secured somehow.

I only say this because when you least expect it, things can go wrong. I was driving about 35 mph down A1A in Florida. These two  kids were on the sidewalk. Suddenly they just dashed out in front of me to cross the road! One kid ran across and the other hesitated before running.  There was no crosswalk  or intersection and I never expected them to do that.  I had to stand up on the brakes so hard, I came up out of my seat. Luckily I didn't hit them, but I still remember the look of sheer terror on one kid's face in that split second when he realized he might be meeting his maker rather soon.  It seemed he was only inches from my windshield, but I am sure it was much further.

I cursed up a whole new set of words I didn't know I knew, because their idiotic parents had not taught them how to cross a road safely.  My hands and whole body shook from head to toe for about 15 minutes, I had to find a place to pull over, because I thought I was having a heart attack, but I guess it was just the adrenaline of such a close encounter.

Amazingly the crockpot remained in the sink, and the  lid on the crockpot stayed on, but some liquid did  manage to slop over the sides and spill down the side of the crockpot.  It's the only time I've had it spill. Crockpot lids are not tight fitting on their own, I suppose to let heat or steam escape should it become too hot.
 
For myself I wouldn't plan on ussing up all the watts available from an inverter.  Same with a circuit breaker.  I'm not an electrician so, Tom Seiler can probably provide a better answer than I, but I grew up with the idea of 25% tollarance on the line.  The inverse of the rule being dont use more than 75% of whats available.  To that thinking I would feel comfortable running a 200 watt item off of a 250 watt inverter but not a 200 watt inverter.  It was a rule my dad taught me decades ago, and might be complete malarke but I will continue to follow it.

YMMMV.

Jeff
 
I have also found that the cigarette lighter plug is not a good source of power for a crockpot.  I just haven't had good luck with the vittles getting done on time.  A good stable 120vac source has me mouthwatering while the BBQ ribs are falling off the bone and dinner is on time.

If you have the battery bank/charging system to accommodate running one through an inverter, that would work.
 
I have a small dual power "Crock Pot".. I also have a heavy duty 12 volt accessory outlet just off the end of the kitchen counter.

Worked great

The major issue with using 12 volt accessory outlets is they are not what I'd call reliable. You hit a bump, the plug moves out a bit and there goes the connection  Absolutly the worst outlet design EVER.
 
John From Detroit said:
The major issue with using 12 volt accessory outlets is they are not what I'd call reliable. You hit a bump, the plug moves out a bit and there goes the connection  Absolutly the worst outlet design EVER.

I agree with that assessment but remember they were designed for a short time of use, long enough to heat the lighter not continued use.  Why don't you change out those connections for Power Poles??  I am in the process of collecting the hardware to do so.
 
Did you know when you use a lighter in a proper lighter socket it works DIFFERENTLY!!!

The accessory plug is designed to make a contact with the center of the socket like a bayonet lamp,  The lighter has a large ring that is the Positive contact it "Snaps into" a set of spring clips.  MUCH better contact, MUCH better design.  It is the plug that sucks.

And of course all those after market "ACCY sockets, do not have the springs like a regular lighter socket has.

As for the power pole suggestion.. Yup, done that  All the important lines are power polls already...  In another thread I posted a photo of a "Pregnant" 10ga wire, That is the one that feeds the power poles.

Dang wire gave birth to one very bad connection.. Once I performed the electrical equivlent of an abortion,  Everything works again (Cut it out and spliced the remaining wire).
 
It is not a good idea to run more than a 400 watt inverter from a cigarette plug. I bought a 1500 watt inverter from Tractor supply to run 2 C-Pap machines. (Wife and I). They take up to 280 watt each when in heat cycle. It was about $139 as I remember. I hook it up directly to the battery which is located under the entry steps (Itasca). I have used our 400 watt inverter for the crock pot. We also put it in the sink. Smells real good. We use a bungee cord on the lid also.
 
I prefer to cook these sorts of dishes in the oven while traveling.  That eliminates the electrical fussing and also provides a relatively confined environment for the hot food in the event of an emergency stop or collision.
 
The first time we tried decent crock pot cooking here was on the road.. I used the 12 volt job (Burton Stove to go as I recall or Oven to go, forget which, one looks like a lunch bucket)  Put the liner pan in it, put in some Chcken and BBQ sauce, nothing fancy at all.. Set it in the sink and plugged it in, Many miles later we stopped for the evening and dinner was.... Served.

Best bird I'd had in a long time

We now use the big 120volt slow cooker most of the time.. But I still have that dual power lunch box .

The 12 volt accessory outlet just off the end of the counter is wired and rated for 20 amp,  This is NOT standard equipment (By about 10 amps)  It works well.

The 12 volt outlet in my Radio room is also rated and wired for 20 amp

The ones in the bedroom, about 5 amp.

The Factory installed 10 amp.
 
I do not cook in the crock pot while moving, but I do have a crock pot with a sealing lid that some of you may want to take a look at.  The lid locks, has a seal to lock everything in and a pressure vent in the lid to release steam.  We use it to haul food to parties and don't get any mess in the trunk of our car.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dgarden&field-keywords=SCCPVL619-S
 
I am not an electrician and don't totally understand all the "power requirements" of the various electric appliances.

I did want to be able to boil some water when boondocking and  got the bright idea that one of those 12V kettles from those truck stop service centres would do the trick. So I bought one.

Wrong ... first time I used it I blew the fuse. I don't know what all was on that circuit but it seems that the 12V receptacle and the RV lights were on it when it blew. So here I am in the dark with a flashlight trying to replace the darn fuse. Threw the darn kettle out and now I use the propane stove and a pot to boil water.

I do NEED my 12V receptacle to power my CPAP machine at night and so far that has not been a problem. Thank goodness.

Until I figure all the ins and outs of the RV and its' mechanical and electrical limitations I won't be doing anything too fancy. In my case I use the RV for transportation and a place to sleep rather than a motel room. I enjoy eating out and trying the different regional cuisine in the areas I travel around so eating and preparing food in the RV is not a priority with me.
 
I prefer to cook these sorts of dishes in the oven while traveling.  That eliminates the electrical fussing and also provides a relatively confined environment for the hot food in the event of an emergency stop or collision.

If I was in a collision, I'd be much more worried about the effects of that large oven flame getting loose than the thought of some hot liquid being spilled.
 
Well, a collision bad enough to damage the oven to the point where the burner poses a fire hazard (it's an insulated metal box, after all) is going to be bad enough news all the way around that fire will be the least of the dangers.  Now, those of you who travel with the 120v on, on the other hand... hmm.
 
We use our crockpot quite frequently while traveling. Ours is a 120V household unit. Since we run our generator about 90% of the time while traveling, it's no big deal to plug in the crockpot. We just sit it in the sink to prevent it from moving around and enjoy a good meal when we stop for the day. We've also done the same with the bread maker.
 
A collision bad enough to damage the crock pot to the point of a fire hazard,  Will very likely unplug it.

Greater danger is flying hot whatever was in it.
 

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