I think my new DC refrigerator is overworking my batteries. Anyway, I need to replace them due to corrode positive terminals. I just noticed one broke off or melted. I have a similar setup to LAZYL. I started to removing cables, and the neg. Leading to house is sparking a bit more than I want. Do I have to disconnect chassis batteries first?
DC Refrigerator is overworking my batteries
- Thread starter SoloRV
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Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
House and chassis share a common ground (usually the RV chassis) but each usually has its own wire connection to it. A spark disconnecting the negative of either battery bank says amps are flowing via the associated positive. If the house & chassis positives are cross-connected (not isolated), then the amp draw could be on either one. I'd make sure the two banks are isolated from each other before starting to disconnect cables.
Kirk
Well-known member
Is it one of the cables that is broken or the battery post? I really couldn't tell from your picture but it is evident that you have 4, batteries of 6V each. The chassis battery should have no part in the current through the 4 coach batteries. While they do share a common ground to the chassis, the positives should not connect anywhere and so not matter.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
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- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,370
I suggest looking into lithium (LiFeP04) batteries. They have many advantages over lead acid batteries including being able to use 100% of their rated capacity without browning out, longer life and no connection corrosion. LiFeP04 prices have dropped an amazing amount, instead of $900 for a 12 volt, 100 a/h battery Amazon has several around $300 or less. Many have cold temperature charging protection (a necessity if you'll be in temperatures below freezing).
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
How old are these? Can't quite make out the number.
No question compressor fridges draw a lot of power but if the batteries are old/shot to begin with, maybe it's not an issue of being "overworked".
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
No question compressor fridges draw a lot of power but if the batteries are old/shot to begin with, maybe it's not an issue of being "overworked".
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
2018. It’s time. I was kinda hoping to remove these myself.
I am leaning toward AGM. Is there a concern about lithium house batteries being different than the chassis batteries?
DonTom
Well-known member
No really.
But . . .
The lith (LiFePO4) house batteries will take a little more voltage to fully charge.
But it's NBD.
Your old L-A converter will get it close enough. If you have solar, it will still charge it all the way to full.
It will still charge to at least the same voltage as your old batteries, even without solar, just that it is capable of around a volt more on a full charge.
But mention what type of converter the rig has. Some can be strapped for lith, others can be modified for a higher voltage. But even if you do nothing but change to a lith battery, it will still be a good move, IMO. You do not really need to charge it to 100%. You will probably get to 85% with your old stuff on a lith even without the solar or doing anything other than changing the battery. And that will be the same voltage as your old batteries. Just the lith will stay up there longer.
There really are no disadvantages of the lith other than the slightly higher cost. All advantages. No need to vent. No corrosion possible. Mount in any position, higher voltage output for longer.
If there is any other disadvantage, it is the less warning when the battery gets near completely discharged. The voltage stays high until the very end of the discharge. So that can make you think you have a lot of battery charge left when you really don't and all your 12V house stuff goes dead within a few minutes.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Laura & Charles
Well-known member
I know little about lithium and only what I’ve read here, but doesn’t he need to install a DC to DC converter to protect his engine’s alternator?
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
Ideally you'd install a DC-DC, depends on a few variables or if you even want to charge the house batteries with the alternator at all. 2018 vintage is getting up there, and given the cost of L16's today a case for lithium could easily be made. Another case that could be made is to go with GC2's at half the price per Ah as L16's and run 'em hard. All depends on your use model, whether you need a large bank (frequent boondocking) or just enough to make it to the next RV park. You know that L16's check the box, so that's your cost and performance baseline. Applying your actual or wanted performance expectation you can keep what you have, or pivot towards a different battery bank.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Tom_M
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2012
- Posts
- 231
I have 270 a/h of lithium batteries for the coach plus the chassis battery and have had no problems charging from my alternator.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
I see a lot of folks have talked about batteries and I have to agree with what they are saying.. but there is another part of this The Refrigerator..
Make and model or a Photo if the Info plat on it (Or both) please.
Make and model or a Photo if the Info plat on it (Or both) please.
DonTom
Well-known member
The DC2DCC will have a couple of advantages, such as being able to charge the lith battery to full and it can prevent excessive draw from the alternator.
But I ran my Y2K RV both ways, with no problems either way. I added the DC2DCC just so I could adjust the voltage to what it should be for a full charge to the 300AH lith battery while I drive.
I added a 2nd system in my 2022 Class A and it does not charge at all from the alternator. That has never been an issue. But my Class A added system is just for my ham radio, MW over, hair driers and such. Runs nothing for the stock RV and keeping it charged has never been an issue. I can charge it fast enough when parked, regardless if from an RV park juice or the genny. Keeping it near a full charge was never an issue.
But I have an uninstalled loose DC2DCC for it. Someday when I am bored, I could install it, but not because I really need it. It not charging when I drive is not an issue to me. And I use it a lot as is.
-Don- Reno, NV
