De-winterizing TT

[DMurNF]

I used the search function but couldn't really find what I was looking for. Very new to this lifestyle, as I mentioned in my introduction post, so excuse what is probably a dumb question. I've watched many YouTube videos about de-winterizing a TT. All the videos I've watched obviously said to flush all faucets until the water runs clear. But then some said to fill your water a tank a bit with water and bleach and charge the lines and leave them like that for 12-24 hours. My TT is a 2021 Coleman Lantern 262BH. Is that something I should do this year or only as the age progresses and to keep mold/mildew from forming when there is water in the holding tank. Most places we will go have a city water connection and I only plan to travel with at most 5 gallons in the tank to use the bathroom instead of a rest stop bathroom. My next quest is to locate the hot water bypass that I am assuming is off so the antifreeze doesn't enter the hot water heater. Thanks in advance!

 

[HappyWanderer]

The fresh water system should be sanitized at least annually, using 1/4 of bleach per 15 gallons of water. Check the Library for an article with detailed instructions.

 

[SpencerPJ]

Yes, the hot water heater will be bypassed. The anode or drain plug will probably be out as well. I would flush water system with water, drain the low port drains again, flush again. I also bleach my water, we generally don't drink from it, but we don't hesitate to cook from it, and often times we do not direct connect.

 

[Larry N.]

The fresh water system should be sanitized at least annually, using 1/4 of bleach per 15 gallons of water. Check the Library for an article with detailed instructions.

There are varying formulas for the amount of bleach, but in yours I'd be sure that is ¼ cup, not ¼ bottle or ¼ gallon, for every 15 gallons of water.

 

[Rene T]

I would sanitize you system just so you know what you have starting out this season. What you want to do is add the bleach to the tank then fill it with fresh water. Turn on the pump and fill the entire system including the water heater. Then run water through all your faucets including the hot water until you get a slight whiff of the bleach then shut the faucet. Do the toilet and shower also. Then let it sit for a couple of hours. Then connect to shore power water and flush everything out. Now you’re done. You could leave the bleach solution in there I’m told because it will dissipate in a few days.
Your bypass is usually right behind the heater.

 

[Rene T]

Check the Library for an article with detailed instructions.

I don’t think the library is available yet.

 

[DMurNF]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I have a lot to learn! I couldn't find the library after reading where to find the library so I was thinking it wasn't up yet.

Yes, the hot water heater will be bypassed. The anode or drain plug will probably be out as well. I would flush water system with water, drain the low port drains again, flush again. I also bleach my water, we generally don't drink from it, but we don't hesitate to cook from it, and often times we do not direct connect.

Correct. The anode is out and in the compartment where I can access the hot water heater from the outside. And just to clarify, when someone says "low port drains" are those the water tank drain and the black/gray tank drains?

 

[Rene T]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I have a lot to learn! I couldn't find the library after reading where to find the library so I was thinking it wasn't up yet.

Correct. The anode is out and in the compartment where I can access the hot water heater from the outside. And just to clarify, when someone says "low port drains" are those the water tank drain and the black/gray tank drains?

when someone says "low port drains" are those the water tank drain and the black/gray tank drains?

No if you look Under the rig someplace you should see two pipes hanging down. They may have a threaded cap on each pipe. If all you see if open ended pipes the the valves will be inside the RV . You may have to open a drawer or cabinet door to see them. They should be in the general area right above the open pipes.
Note: those pipes typically are color coded. A red pipe is hot and blue pipe is cold. Or they may just have a colored stripe along the length of the pipes.

As far as the anode, when it’s new, it will be about 5/8” diameter. If it gets down to about 1/4”, replace it.

 

[DMurNF]

No if you look Under the rig someplace you should see two pipes hanging down. They may have a threaded cap on each pipe. If all you see if open ended pipes the the valves will be inside the RV . You may have to open a drawer or cabinet door to see them. They should be in the general area right above the open pipes.
Note: those pipes typically are color coded. A red pipe is hot and blue pipe is cold. Or they may just have a colored stripe along the length of the pipes.

As far as the anode, when it’s new, it will be about 5/8” diameter. If it gets down to about 1/4”, replace it.

Thanks for the help. I've been busy with work and the travel trailer is stored at my in-laws about an hour away. I wish I could just walk outside and take a look. My goal in the next few weeks is to take all the information and tips I have learned and do a slow walk around and really locate things and go through the manual. Thanks again!

 

[HappyWanderer]

There are varying formulas for the amount of bleach, but in yours I'd be sure that is ¼ cup, not ¼ bottle or ¼ gallon, for every 15 gallons of water.

Big fingers, little phone. Yes, that would be 1/4 cup!

I just pour the bleach into the hose, then use it to fill the tank.

 

[Rob&Deryl]

If I have to dewinterize at home, is it safe to dump on the ground? I dont have any sewer connection at home.

 

[DMurNF]

If I have to dewinterize at home, is it safe to dump on the ground? I dont have any sewer connection at home.

Sure, I've seen it in a movie

 

[Rene T]

If I have to dewinterize at home, is it safe to dump on the ground? I dont have any sewer connection at home.

Pink antifreeze is biodegradable so it would be fine.

 

[HappyWanderer]

Pink antifreeze is biodegradable so it would be fine.

More important, it’s non-toxic.

 

[SpencerPJ]

And just to clarify, when someone says "low port drains" are those the water tank drain and the black/gray tank drains?

There will be two drains, on a trailer like yours / mine, they are usually at the very back that drain the fresh water system, Hot and Cold, probably little plastic caps as plugs. They have nothing to do with the waste tanks and drains. They in theory are the lowest point water is, hence drains the fresh water system. I like to drain them while flushing, because the pink antifreeze and stay present and mix with water over time.

 

[Rene T]

There will be two drains, on a trailer like yours / mine, they are usually at the very back that drain the fresh water system, Hot and Cold, probably little plastic caps as plugs. They have nothing to do with the waste tanks and drains. They in theory are the lowest point water is, hence drains the fresh water system. I like to drain them while flushing, because the pink antifreeze and stay present and mix with water over time

There will be two drains, on a trailer like yours / mine, they are usually at the very back that drain the fresh water system, Hot and Cold, probably little plastic caps as plugs. They have nothing to do with the waste tanks and drains. They in theory are the lowest point water is, hence drains the fresh water system. I like to drain them while flushing, because the pink antifreeze and stay present and mix with water over time.

Not necessarily. My drains are more towards the front of my rig and the FW tank is at the back all the way. And mine do not have caps on the ends. I have valves inside my wet bay. My FW tank drain does have a cap/plug on” the end of it’s drain. Makes it a pain to have to crawl under the RV just a little to remove it and then hurry to get out before I get too wet.

 

[SpencerPJ]

Here is a link to a forum discussion that might be helpful. For that matter, OP might benefit spending some time in his specific Trailers Forum along with this great forum

Coleman 244BH - Dutchmen Owners

Just purchased a 2015 244BH about 2 weeks ago. It's since been winterized, but for future reference, does anyone know where the low point drains are? I don't recall them being pointed out on the walk

www.dutchmenowners.org

 

[DMurNF]

Here is a link to a forum discussion that might be helpful. For that matter, OP might benefit spending some time in his specific Trailers Forum along with this great forum

Coleman 244BH - Dutchmen Owners

Just purchased a 2015 244BH about 2 weeks ago. It's since been winterized, but for future reference, does anyone know where the low point drains are? I don't recall them being pointed out on the walk

www.dutchmenowners.org

Thanks for the link. I am a member of that forum as well but the recent activity seems low. A lot of the posts were from years ago and many went unanswered. I figured I would try here first as this forum seems knowledgeable, respectful and quick in response.

 

[X-Roughneck Strike 3]

I see your location is Mass. I would definitely use the Pink (Anti Freeze) stuff up there in your location. Down here in Texas Deep Freeze are (were?) uncommon where I am at. When I see cold weather approaching I connect air at the city fill port and blow 65 psi air (Pic attached) into the system.

Before I do this I make sure I pull the nylon plug on the Hot water heater to void that 4 gal ready use tank also. Then, I re-plug nylon hot water heater plug and then blow air thru the system. After the air is applied I go to each water valve and open them playing with the hot and cold until they sputter air while I have that constant 65 PSI on the back side at the city fill. I make sure I do this at all water valves, shower, outside, toilet etc. After that, I just cross my fingers and hope all remains OK..LOL.

The expansion of the water freezing is the problem.

 

[DMurNF]

I see your location is Mass. I would definitely use the Pink (Anti Freeze) stuff up there in your location. Down here in Texas Deep Freeze are (were?) uncommon where I am at. When I see cold weather approaching I connect air at the city fill port and blow 65 psi air (Pic attached) into the system.

Before I do this I make sure I pull the nylon plug on the Hot water heater to void that 4 gal ready use tank also. Then, I re-plug nylon hot water heater plug and then blow air thru the system. After the air is applied I go to each water valve and open them playing with the hot and cold until they sputter air while I have that constant 65 PSI on the back side at the city fill. I make sure I do this at all water valves, shower, outside, toilet etc. After that, I just cross my fingers and hope all remains OK..LOL.

The expansion of the water freezing is the problem.

Yea I have the pink stuff in now. I made that mistake when I moved up to Mass from Florida regarding my windshield wiper fluid in my truck. Didn't even think about that and my fluid froze in the tank. Took a long time to unthaw and check the tank for cracks.