Did I buy the wrong tires?

[wheelhouse_travelers]

I'm a newbie, but I'm also a numbers guy. I try to spend my money wisely, but safely. We have a 42 foot fiver that is 12,5k dry and runs around 16,7k loaded up (tanks empty). On the RV, it specifies an F-rated tire. What was on it were ST235/85/R16 128/124L Westlakes. Several experienced RV people said that I should replace them since they were 4 years old and had been sitting for almost a year, plus they didn't have a great reputation (no idea, I'm new).

In any case, no matter what, they aren't on the RV anymore because I knew 4 years was getting some age (especially in Florida) and I had about 1500 to spend on new tires. I went to Discount Tire and looked at what they had available, and they were touting these new Goodyear Endurance tires. They had an E-rated version that was on sale for 148/tire (compared to 2-400 for F or G in other brands). Goodyear's web site says that the 235/85/16 version of the endurance has a weight rating of 3640#. Max inflation pressure says 80. When I made the last run on them, around 150 miles, I started the run with 75 and at points at least 1 of them was running 85, temps were up over 100 at points (it was 87 outside).

So, my question is, am I running too close to max weight on these tires? I got weight on a CAT scale and it showed that we had 13,4 on the axles (these are 7k). Do I need to get different tires and am I looking at needing different axles down the road? Help me!!!

We are about to make the jump from Florida to Texas next week, ~1100 miles, so this is do or die and if I have to replace, I will need to figure out how to get that done, since it seems that supply is very low at many shops.

 

[donn]

To answer your question you need to crawl under your fiver and look at the axle tag. If as I suspect the axles are rated for 7000 pounds then your fine. If the qxle rating is 8000 pounds, then I would say your under rated. Personally I dislike ST tires, would never installed them on your rig.
Now, if you have the 8K axles your best solution would have been to upgrade to a 17.5 tire and wheel package.

 

[wheelhouse_travelers]

Stickers on the axle say, Lippert Components, item # V000266675, capacity 7k.

 

[donn]

Well, with 7K axles your two ST tires with load rating of 3417 each equals just under the 7K axle limit. As it sits right now your tires have become the weak link. I had 7K axles under my Cedar Creek, but it scaled 13,500 pounds so 3042 pound rated LT tires were just fine for it. With your fiver and if it were mine I would upgrade to 8000 pound axles and then install 17.5 inch tire wheel package. Swapping to disc brakes at the same time. Of coirse this would break your 1500 budget by a wide margain. And depending on how long and how much travel you plan to do before selling it it might or might not be worth while. At worst I would take the tires back and get a tire with higher load rating.

 

[wheelhouse_travelers]

I appreciate your help. Help me understand though, you said 2 ST tires with a load rating of 3417? Goodyear says my tires are rated for 3640. I'm weighing in at 13400 at the axles when on the scale. Wouldn't that mean that I currently have 3350 sitting on each tire, so 300 under their capacity?

 

[donn]

OK, I looked at the GY web site thats where I got the load rating number. So to be positive go look at your tires. If you really have 3640 load rating then you should be good to go. But at 13,400 on the axles your pretty close. At this point I would want to know exactly what each tire is carrying.. depending on floor plan you could be way overloaded on one side or one tire and still be under axle rating. If you have a DOT scales close by that is not open one day you could go there and spend some time getting 4 corner weights. Personally I would want that to ensure I am under each tires load rating. It may also help you in loading.

 

[wheelhouse_travelers]

Yeah, the Goodyear site I used is here (Endurance® Trailer Tire Sizes & Specs | Goodyear Tires) and I just took a picture of the tire. This is what it shows.

Floorplan is a bedroom up front and a bedroom in the rear, the master suite is at the back with a full bath + washer & dryer. The living space in the middle has 2 large slides one side has the couch the other side has a full residential fridge. I really wish I could say whether this was all balanced out, but I cannot. We are getting rid of the large couch that came with it and putting in lighter chairs and we are dumping all unnecessary cargo. I am moving heavier tools and such to the truck bed. It is a 2016 F350 CCLB dually, and even if our pin weight was 4k, we still have some play room there.

In any case, I'm mainly concerned about the tires right now, and at this time cannot afford a full axle upgrade, though I wish I could.

 

[donn]

Please to put your mind at ease, spend the time and get 4 corner weights like I mentioned above. I am never a fan of under tireing a vehicle, but you might be OK. Then again because of design you might find you have the wrong tires.

 

[TheBar]

You first said " 12,5k dry and runs around 16,7k loaded up (tanks empty)" but later said the scales read 13.4. Was 13.4 your actual unloaded weight?

If you are planning to add an extra 4,200 lbs of cargo (with dry tanks) you will be seriously overloaded on the axles and tires. I can't imagine hauling 2 tons of extra stuff but you said you are moving. Are you hauling a stick and brick house full of furniture? If this is a one time haul it might be cheaper to hire a moving van for the extra stuff. New axles and tires aren't cheap and the frame of your fiver might not be rated for that much weight.

 

[donn]

You first said " 12,5k dry and runs around 16,7k loaded up (tanks empty)" but later said the scales read 13.4. Was 13.4 your actual unloaded weight?

If you are planning to add an extra 4,200 lbs of cargo (with dry tanks) you will be seriously overloaded on the axles and tires. I can't imagine hauling 2 tons of extra stuff but you said you are moving. Are you hauling a stick and brick house full of furniture? If this is a one time haul it might be cheaper to hire a moving van for the extra stuff. New axles and tires aren't cheap and the frame of your fiver might not be rated for that much weight.

The 13.4 number is his axle scalec weight

 

[wheelhouse_travelers]

You first said " 12,5k dry and runs around 16,7k loaded up (tanks empty)" but later said the scales read 13.4. Was 13.4 your actual unloaded weight?

If you are planning to add an extra 4,200 lbs of cargo (with dry tanks) you will be seriously overloaded on the axles and tires. I can't imagine hauling 2 tons of extra stuff but you said you are moving. Are you hauling a stick and brick house full of furniture? If this is a one time haul it might be cheaper to hire a moving van for the extra stuff. New axles and tires aren't cheap and the frame of your fiver might not be rated for that much weight.

12,5k dry weight (factory dry weight, apparently they don't include any of the appliances)
16,7 all of our stuff on board (we are doing the full-time thing) this is pretty much max GVWR. i got this from weight the trailer and truck, then weighing the trailer separately.

All that comes to 13,4 sitting on the axles when its on the truck.

 

[Bill Nourse]

From a past experience, I would not run Good Year on anything, even if they were free. Costs too much to do the repairs to the trailer when they blow, and Good Year refused to even honor the tire warranty.

As heavy as you are, I would think you would be better served with an F rated tire at 3900+ each rated for 95# pressure. If F rated is what was originally on it, I would certainly no go lower.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Let's stick with the facts, which are 2 x 7000 lb axles and a scaled weight of 13,400 on the pair. The GY Endurance your have are rated at 3640 each @ 80 psi right on the tire sidewall, so there is no question of that. That means you should never run at less than 80 psi (cold, i.e. before moving the trailer) so as to get the full rated load capacity. Forget about the psi when the tire heats up in travel - it's irrelevant to the rating. And that full 3640/tire is barely adequate (7280 per axle). So yes, "by the book" you are OK, but those tires are operating at 96+% of their capability every mile you travel. They are working hard and that's not a recipe for a long service life. Four years is probably all you should risk, and that assumes no abuse, e.g. running underinflated, no bruising from curb bumps or major ptholes, etc.

Owner reports on the GY Endurance are favorable so far. Some RVers had less than great expereince with the predecessor model from GY (the Marathon) and bashing GY has become a popular internet passtime. Your mileage may vary...

 

[CharlesinGA]

From a past experience, I would not run Good Year on anything, even if they were free. Costs too much to do the repairs to the trailer when they blow, and Good Year refused to even honor the tire warranty.

As heavy as you are, I would think you would be better served with an F rated tire at 3900+ each rated for 95# pressure. If F rated is what was originally on it, I would certainly no go lower.

I don't care for GY tires on vehicles, and certainly never Marathons on anything, but the Endurance is now a proven tire that is USA made (the only ST tire that is) and I have read of very few complaints about the tire.

The 8K axles, disc brakes, 17.5 wheels and tires such as the Salun's are a good investment for a heavy fiver that is a keeper and would be a huge improvement in reliability (provided one throws the China made bearings and races and installs quality bearings made in the free world (Timkens)).

It sounds like your GY experience comes from the Marathon debacle of past years, and I understand the difficulty in being willing to go back to a brand that has failed you so miserably in the past, but sometimes (rarely) things do change, and the Endurance ST tires seem to be one of those rare things.

Charles

 

[xrated]

I'm still trying to figure out WHY you would replace "F" rated tires with "E" rated tires, especially when the trailer's safety sticker indicates that an "F" rated tire is what is supposed to be on the trailer. In my opinion, you are asking for trouble and even worse, it is self induced by putting the wrong size tire on the trailer.

 

[wheelhouse_travelers]

I'm still trying to figure out WHY you would replace "F" rated tires with "E" rated tires, especially when the trailer's safety sticker indicates that an "F" rated tire is what is supposed to be on the trailer. In my opinion, you are asking for trouble and even worse, it is self induced by putting the wrong size tire on the trailer.

I had enough cash to get the tires and they were on hand. He was 4 weeks out at minimum on the other available F and G tires they carry. That was 2 months ago, and we had to move the RV, couldn't wait, so needed a quick fix. I will most likely replace the tires before we make this jump to Texas, as I know I'm bumping the limits on the tires.

 

[wheelhouse_travelers]

Let's stick with the facts, which are 2 x 7000 lb axles and a scaled weight of 13,400 on the pair. The GY Endurance your have are rated at 3640 each @ 80 psi right on the tire sidewall, so there is no question of that. That means you should never run at less than 80 psi (cold, i.e. before moving the trailer) so as to get the full rated load capacity. Forget about the psi when the tire heats up in travel - it's irrelevant to the rating. And that full 3640/tire is barely adequate (7280 per axle). So yes, "by the book" you are OK, but those tires are operating at 96+% of their capability every mile you travel. They are working hard and that's not a recipe for a long service life. Four years is probably all you should risk, and that assumes no abuse, e.g. running underinflated, no bruising from curb bumps or major ptholes, etc.

Owner reports on the GY Endurance are favorable so far. Some RVers had less than great expereince with the predecessor model from GY (the Marathon) and bashing GY has become a popular internet passtime. Your mileage may vary...

Thank you for the succinct reply. Basically what I was hoping AND what I was sure was the case, but I'm new to this and not dumb enough to keep my mouth shut. My old DS in basic used to say, "the stupidest question is the one you didn't ask."

 

[donn]

Thank you for the succinct reply. Basically what I was hoping AND what I was sure was the case, but I'm new to this and not dumb enough to keep my mouth shut. My old DS in basic used to say, "the stupidest question is the one you didn't ask."

Nobody implied dumb. We have all made mistakes along the road of life. Look at me. Spent a small fortune on vehicles because I was stupid enough to think I knew it all where weights were concerned. That cost me way more than a set of tires. Live and learn. Since your going full time I personally would save up buy 8K axle assemblies, convert to disc brakes and install 17.5 inch tires. Heck you.might also consider morride suspension for a real comfortable ride.

 

[SargeW]

Go with Gary RV Wizard's advice, it's spot on. I also recommend you pick up a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) at least for the 4 tires on the trailer. They can provide a huge amount of peace of mind as you will be able to monitor the pressures and temps of the tires that are a long way from your truck cab. Most TPMS brands these days all work pretty much the same. Screw on cap sensors for the tire valve stem, and a monitor in the truck cab. I have had a system for many years and have been saved a major tire problem several time. Cheap insurance.

 

[Rene T]

I personally would save up buy 8K axle assemblies, convert to disc brakes and install 17.5 inch tires. Heck you.might also consider morride suspension for a real comfortable ride.

If you do decide to go with bigger axles and tires, take a real hard look at your fender wells. You may not have the room for them.