DIY Motorhome AC Replacement: Feasibility, Challenges, and Key Tips

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Members widely agree that replacing a rooftop AC on a motorhome like the 2012 Fleetwood Bounder 33C can be a feasible DIY project, especially with help from mechanically skilled friends and the right equipment (such as a tractor with forks or an extension ladder and rope). The main physical challenge is safely lifting the heavy unit onto the roof without damaging the membrane, with several members recommending plywood for protection. Most stress that a like-for-like replacement is... More...
Yours is now 14 yo and the identical unit may no longer be in production or simply not in stock anywhere. Then the brand maker will probably say something like "Model xxxx-yz is now the replacement for that" and the fun begins...
Last year when I had dealer/repair shop do some work I asked them about replacing the front AC. Way back when we bought this coach the inspector noted that the output was only fair (my words).

I remember they could only find one dealer with that model but can't remember whether even then it was an exact replacement. I'll do as suggested here and get the specs off the actual unit and see if it's still out there.

Admittedly other than cleaning the interior filters we haven't actually had the unit cleaned properly. I guess it would make sense to do that and see if makes enough of a difference to get by for another year or two. BUT, from all I'm reading, given the age it's about at the end of its lifecycle anyway.
 
Except for extreme cases, there isn't much to clean on a rooftop a/c unit. The external fins don't typically clog up but it doesn't hurt to rinse them out with a hose and to straighten any fins that may have been dented. The interior heat exchange also stays clean enough if there is a filter on the air intake, but running a vacuum over it can't hurt either. But you shouldn't expect much improvement. If any.

Measure the temperature difference between the air near the a/c interior air intake and the chilled air that blows out the vent.. A 20 degree differential is good performance. 15 is mediocre but any less that that is poor.

Air flow is important too - make sure enough air is passing through the chiller. You may be surprised at how much of the actual air path is blocked by dangling wires, electrical boxes or whatever.

As for age, these a/c units mostly work until they don't. A failed one either can't get the compressor started or loses cooling altogether. Gradual loss of chilling isn't the typical mode of age-related failure.
 

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