I sure hope someone has an answer to this. I have an old 77 Dodge Champion with a 318 motor. I have replaced all the electrical components. It will start right up but wont stay running unless I keep the key in the start position. In other words, the starter has to stay engaged. Not a fuel issue. If I keep the key in start position, I can rev the engine. I am thinking it has to be an electrical issue but I am stumped now. New ignition switch and key cylinder, new ICU, new voltage regulator and new resistor. Also changed the defective alternator. It did run when I bought it. It started having problems with things not working. The wipers and the dash gauges. Ignition switch was very hard to turn. With new switch everything worked correctly. Now this new problem. And now the gauges aren't working. Pretty strange stuff going on.
Dodge Champion wont stay running
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Jim Godward
Well-known member
My memory is not what it used to be but If I recall correctly, there is a relay or??? that works when the engine starts and allows voltage to continue to the engine after it starts. The start position on the switch provides the voltage to start and then this other path takes over. Check the voltage to the coil during start and then when the start switch is changed to the run position. I think should get you on the right path to find the problem.
nibroc
Well-known member
ign switch hooked up wrong----hot wire from ign switch to coil-----hot wire from coil to distributer
sc4668
Well-known member
You have a bad ballast resistor, common problem on Chrysler s. It is a white panalic block mounted on firewall has a wire at each end. Check with an ohm meter will probably read open.
When you start the resistor is bypassed when you let off of key the resistor is in the circuit to drop the voltage.
When you start the resistor is bypassed when you let off of key the resistor is in the circuit to drop the voltage.
sc4668
Well-known member
Just double checked your post, did you change the correct resistor. The wiper resistor is located in the same area. Whit the key in the run position there should be battery voltage on one side and a lower voltage on the other side.
Tried all the suggestions with no luck. Today I put a jumper on the battery side of my alternator and connected the other end to the input side of my ballast. Starts and runs perfect. So the issue is not the ballast. What next? :'( The alternator is new along with all the other electrical parts. It ran fine before the new alternator. You also could not shut it off. Had to remove the jumper wire.
Larry N.
Well-known member
Perhaps the new alternator is faulty? It can happen (bad diode or...??).
Got me ???
Is it possible you crossed a wire when installing the new alternator? I guess it could be defective, ?
You might have better luck hopping into a dodge 318 forum, someone may have had your exact issue before. Good news, it runs. I'd bet a silly small issue.
Is it possible you crossed a wire when installing the new alternator? I guess it could be defective, ?
You might have better luck hopping into a dodge 318 forum, someone may have had your exact issue before. Good news, it runs. I'd bet a silly small issue.
You need 12 v on the side of the ballast that dosent go to coil.By jumping it you have proved that is problem.Look at balast to see the wire that goes to the ignition switch .Whatever color it is look at switch to find it.if you can't find it run a new wire fron the switch to the coil .might be broken.Uce your test light to find the terminal on switch gets power when key is turned on,you could have a bad switch or it may be miss wired.
Old_Crow
Well-known member
I think everyone bypassed the last sentence in your first post. Did you ever get the gauges working?
I've messed with a lot of old cars(had my own restoration shop)and sometimes the new replacement parts can look the same, hook up the same, but not be the same internally.
IF it was an old Chevy, I'd say you had the two small wires on the starter crossed, but Mopar starters hook up differently. I'd be checking out the ignition switch since the gauges don't work and the thing runs when you bypass the switch.
I've messed with a lot of old cars(had my own restoration shop)and sometimes the new replacement parts can look the same, hook up the same, but not be the same internally.
IF it was an old Chevy, I'd say you had the two small wires on the starter crossed, but Mopar starters hook up differently. I'd be checking out the ignition switch since the gauges don't work and the thing runs when you bypass the switch.
Well, still no luck. I got another alternator just in case. No luck. On my unit, the pink wire goes from the switch directly to the ballast then to the coil. Test all the terminals in the switch, the pink terminal is not hot. The terminal off the alternator is also NOT hot. On mine, wire from battery goes directly to alternator. Two wires off the alternator. Both go to the voltage regulator. Red one also goes to both terminals of 12 volt ballast. Power to first position on switch, no power to 2nd position (run) on switch. I think there should be power coming off the alternator at all times, not just when it is running? Correct? That's why it will run perfectly when I bypass the alternator. Any more suggestions. The old alternator tested bad at the parts store. But everything worked with it. :-\
