dometic dm2652 wont work on ac

[jwbboat]

i have read a cpl of issues people had exactly like mine,but no end result.
Long story short,i have checked and have 12v and 120 where needed except
To the heater wires on control board..i have replaced the control board.lights work inside,check is flashing,but i have the gas disconnected,and it does spark to try to ignite.

 

[Kirk]

If you do not have 120V to the heater when it is selected, trace back to the 120V supply to the refrigerator. There is a 5a fuse in that circuit and there could be damage to the wires or the power cord that plugs into the outlet. Since the same controls are used in both modes of operation they must be working. If in auto mode, does it select 120v mode?

 

[jwbboat]

Are u talking about the fuse on the control board..its good,120 on each side of it..120 on the control board as well as 12v thru the reset button.just have no 120 on the heater wire tabs on control board.and this is on a new control board..have system set in auto (2 way system)..but i have the gas bottles disc right now,could this have anything to do with it..when turned off and back on,it tries to light the gas.

 

[DonTom]

just have no 120 on the heater wire tabs on control board.

After removing all power and after writing down where each wire goes (and take a photo of it all too):

Remove the control board and look under it. You probably have a burnt trace after the relay that engages for the 120 VAC operation.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[jwbboat]

new control board

 

[Endlesssummer]

After removing all power and after writing down where each wire goes (and take a photo of it all too):

Remove the control board and look under it. You probably have a burnt trace after the relay that engages for the 120 VAC operation.

-Don- Reno, NV

After removing all power and after writing down where each wire goes (and take a photo of it all too):

Remove the control board and look under it. You probably have a burnt trace after the relay that engages for the 120 VAC operation.

-Don- Reno, NV

I had a similar problem on the same Dometic fridge. Would not operate on AC. My problem was user error.
Even though when in auto mode the gas button needed to be pressed down (off position). I had overlooked this because you would think when gas button is up that it’s in the off position. A simple fix

 

[jwbboat]

yep,gas button -in-..the prob is i have no 120 at the terminals for the elect heater wires.
I went ahead and ordered another,new control board.

 

[Endlesssummer]

yep,gas button -in-..the prob is i have no 120 at the terminals for the elect heater wires.
I went ahead and ordered another,new control board.

Got it!
Good luck!

 

[Kirk]

If you don't have one, here is the service manual for the refrigerator.

You need to trace back to see where the 120V power for the heater is being lost, or the reason that the refrigerator is not selecting 120V when it is available. Also, if you could please use more capitalization, punctuation, and spacing in your post it would make them much less difficult to understand.

 

[Kirk]

interested in what fridge's are a perfect fit for the dometic dm 2652.

Do you plan to repair the one that you have or replace it?

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The 120v path thru the board is really simple, direct from the input terminals (hot & neutral), then the hot feed thru the 5A fuse and a relay that switches it on/off in response to the thermostat. If you have 120v at the fuse but not at the heater itself, trace the path from the fuse to the heater. Don't forget the return path to the neutral terminal. As a test, you can jumper the 120v from input terminal to the output terminal that feeds to the heater.

 

[jwbboat]

Do you plan to repair the one that you have or replace it?

id like to repair it,but may replace

 

[jwbboat]

The 120v path thru the board is really simple, direct from the input terminals (hot & neutral), then the hot feed thru the 5A fuse and a relay that switches it on/off in response to the thermostat. If you have 120v at the fuse but not at the heater itself, trace the path from the fuse to the heater. Don't forget the return path to the neutral terminal. As a test, you can jumper the 120v from input terminal to the output terminal that feeds to the heater.

it sounds like the relay is not working,or not being told to work

 

[jwbboat]

If you don't have one, here is the service manual for the refrigerator.

You need to trace back to see where the 120V power for the heater is being lost, or the reason that the refrigerator is not selecting 120V when it is available. Also, if you could please use more capitalization, punctuation, and spacing in your post it would make them much less difficult to understand.

im big on punctuation,myself...i dont see anything wrong with my punctuation.

 

[jwbboat]

The 120v path thru the board is really simple, direct from the input terminals (hot & neutral), then the hot feed thru the 5A fuse and a relay that switches it on/off in response to the thermostat. If you have 120v at the fuse but not at the heater itself, trace the path from the fuse to the heater. Don't forget the return path to the neutral terminal. As a test, you can jumper the 120v from input terminal to the output terminal that feeds to the heater.

i dont doubt that the heater element will work,if i put 120 direct to it,ck's out good.i just dont have 120 at the output terminals for the heater wires..i think,something is not telling the relay to switch..i highly suspect the eyebrow board...your thoughts? The lights are working ok on it.I have,tested the hot and neutral wires coming in on the board... 120V

 

[jwbboat]

thats my thoughts !

it sounds like the relay is not working,or not being told to work

 

[DonTom]

new control board

I have a burnt trace on my control board in my (Y2K RV) DM2652. I simply repaired it by soldering a thin wire over the trace. It is still the original 22 year old control board.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[Kirk]

im big on punctuation,myself...i dont see anything wrong with my punctuation

ok.i just made a suggestion.no harm intended.