Dometic Fridge working intermittently

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Regulator23

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Older fridge model RM2811. It will work for 4 or 5 days then stop for 4 or 5 days. When it stops, the control panel on the front of the unit shows nothing (no lights). Once it comes back on, it works fine on AC or propane. I've checked all the fuses, I've checked for loose wiring, can't find anything. Again, when it stops, it's as if it has no power going to anything on the unit. I've tried plugging it in directly to a 110 outlet but no luck with that either. Could a control board work and then not work like this? Any help would be appreciated.

Heading out to get ice for the cooler because during the night last night it shut off.
 

donn

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You need to check the 12VDC side of things. All RV refers require 12VDC for control functions. The 120VAC side is only for the electric heating element. No lights means no 12 volts.
 

Kirk

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When it stops, the control panel on the front of the unit shows nothing (no lights).
This is a major hint about what may be causing your problem. No matter what mode the refrigerator is in, the controls require 12V power to operate and the exact same controls are used in either mode. If you have a volt/ohm meter you should check in the back to see if it has 12V power when it stops working. You didn't say what model your Dometic refrigerator is but inside the rear, near where you found the 120V plug you will see a terminal block with spade connectors that supplies the 12V power. You might try supplying an alternate source of 12V.
1627776795797.jpeg
 

Regulator23

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Thank you. It has 12v going to the terminal block and on to the circuit board (pictured). Just to be sure, I hooked up 12v directly to the + and - on the circuit board and still nothing comes on. Is there anything else I could try? Does it appear to be the circuit board? Last time it wouldn't come on for 3 or 4 days, so by tomorrow or wednesday I'm hoping it will come on again. Even if it does though, that doesn't solve the issue. Thank you again for your thoughts. Russ
 

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donn

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Sounds like a board. To be sure call dinosaur boards talk to them. Their boards are far superior to Dometic boards.
 

Kirk

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My first suggestion is that you download a copy of the service manual from Bryant RV Service website. That should help you.
As I look at the picture that you posted, I believe that to be the power circuit board and there are 3 fuses there. You need to check each of those fuses with a volt/ohm meter to be sure that they are all good. The vertically mounted glass fuse should be a 3a fuse and supplies the 12V power to the circuit board. If it has failed you will get no power at all.

Because of the intermittent nature of your problems, I would take each of the wires off of the terminals and clean them with some fine emery cloth then put the connector on and off several times to be sure that it is clean and tight. (Be sure that you remove all power before you do this.) The pictures in the service manual are not exactly the same as you have, but that is because there have been several generations of circuit boards that are not configured exactly the same. If you do replace the circuit board, I suggest that you visit Dinosaur Electronics and the replacement for your refrigerator is the Micro P-711.
 

Regulator23

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I have tried everything mentioned and no luck. I spoke with a tech at Dinosaur and he had me walk through some things which indicated it was not the P-711 control board. He thought it must be the board inside (eyebrow board?). I have taken that off but there are no fuses on it. I tried to jump across the power switch to bypass it but also nothing. Previously, after 4 or 5 days it would magically come back on, but that isn't the case now. Not sure what else to do except maybe replace the eyebrow board, but I haven't been able to locate one of those yet either. Thank you.
 

Kirk

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Have you taken readings with a digital volt/ohm meter? I would start tracing the 12V supply though the circuits, following the schematic on page 17 of the manual for power to the upper circuit board? Also on page 24 is one That shows the lower board and also the harness from it to the upper board. I would definitely trace power before I started to just replace parts.
 
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