Dometic Ice Maker Not Making Ice

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Jim Johnson

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2005
Posts
848
Location
Newton, AL
Has quit making ice.  Thought the problem was in a frozen valve which was not allowing the tray to fill with water.  Thawed out the freezer section but it did not help.  Recently had the Dometic recall work done but am quite sure it has made ice since then.
Have been through Bob Livingston's book but got no help there.
 
Jim could be the solenoid operated valve that is energized when the water is supose to flow or somethin as simple as a clogged line.  Ceck for water to the inlet of the valve and if that is ok then make atemporary line from the output connection and run it through the panel to a container and see if there is any water getting through.  Good luck.
 
Jim,
It could be stuck in mid-cycle, with the ejector arms frozen into the ice. You should be able to feel them on the far left of the icemaker, completely out of the slots for the cubes if it has completed a cycle properly. If they are, good; if not, feel with your little finger in one of the slots for the ejectors. If there is ice and the ejectors are there too, chances are the heater which releases the cubes is burned out or the microswitch that activates it is bad. There are 3 of them (different functions), under the mounting plate located under the square white cover on the front. Pry the cover off, and you will see the main drive gear. If the ejectors are NOT in the slots, rotate the large gear by hand in the direction marked on the gear, about 1/4 turn. It should start running on its' own. It will take a bit of effort. Let me know what conditions you encounter (position of ejectors, ice in the slot, position of the bail arm, etc.) and we can take it from there.
 
Karl and Ron

There is no water or ice in the mold.  I turned the large gear and it ran a complete cycle and  raised and lowered shut-off arm but no water was let into the mold. 
 
Jim,
Check the back of the refer, if there is water pooling or running back there it could be the ice maker supply tube is leaking the water out. That happened to mine a couple of years ago.
 
Is the timer actually cycling, i.e.clock motor running, trying to go though its fill, freeze and empty stages?  The ice maker is powered separately, actually plugged into a different outlet than the cooling unit. Could be you lost power to the entire ice maker. Or the solenoid for the fill valve is not working. I don't recall if that is 12v powered or driven from the ice maker itself (which would make it 120 VAC powered).
 
Jim Johnson said:
Karl and Ron

There is no water or ice in the mold.  I turned the large gear and it ran a complete cycle and  raised and lowered shut-off arm but no water was let into the mold. 

Next thing to check then is the solenoid actuated valve like I mentioned before.  Do you see any signs of water around the bottom of the fridge from outside access?  If yes then the line could be bad going up the back near the cooler unit to the back of the icemaker as Jerry suggested.
 
back of the refer

Jerry,  There is no water coming out.  I had the supply line replaced a year or so ago.

Is the timer actually cycling

Gary, Yes, it is running through the cycle but no water.

solenoid actuated valve

Ron,  It is pouring outside tonight so I will check it in the morning.  Also will call the repair place in Rock Springs and ask him if he thinks he left something disconnected.

Thanks guys.
 
Jim Johnson said:
Ron,  It is pouring outside tonight so I will check it in the morning.  Also will call the repair place in Rock Springs and ask him if he thinks he left something disconnected.

Thanks guys.

It may be as simple as him forgetting to connect the wires to the solenoid fill valve.

Rock Springs I suspect that is RS Wyoming.  If so I was raised about 12 miles West in Green River.  A friend that was in the same class in school owns those bluffs and more  west of Green River.
 
RS Wyoming

That is correct Ron.  We spent about a week there.  Can't say much for the KOA (I wrote a negative report on Campground Review but mysteriously it never showed up) but we enjoyed the area. 
 
Jim Johnson said:
That is correct Ron.  We spent about a week there.  Can't say much for the KOA (I wrote a negative report on Campground Review but mysteriously it never showed up) but we enjoyed the area.   

I haven't seen too many KOA/s that I would bragg about.

Hope you get the icemaker fixed.
 
Jim,
Loosen the water line fitting, the garden hose type that goes to the solenoid valve, and see if water starts leaking or spraying out. If it does, you'll need to first check for a clogged screen at that point. If o.k., check the resistance of the valve coil. It may be open and will require replacement. If that's o.k., disconnect the leads and try putting voltage from a separate source to the coil directly. Should click and flow water. If not, dis-assemble the valve, clean and re-assemble. When taking apart, be careful 'cause there's a spring which could jump out at you, and a small plastic part that could be installed in two different directions. Only one will work, so make sure you take notes. It's not a difficult task, but I put mine back together the wrong way and had to do it over to make it right. If you applied an alternate voltage to the coil and it worked, your problem is almost surely a bad microswitch. While measuring for voltage at the valve, start another cycle manually and watch for voltage there. Go thru a complete cycle while watching the meter; it should show voltage for about 5-6 seconds. If not, that pretty much verifies a problem with one of them. Unless someone removed it, you should find a schematic tucked away inside the square cover you removed, and that should help you determine which one controls the valve. Let me know what you find.
 
Ok, Well, here is what happens when your ICE maker cycles normally, I'll kind of gloss over the confirmed working parts.

A T-stat senses "Cold enough" and closes, this starts a motor running and a heater heating (YES HEAT) the motor turns the gears you know about that) a switch is closed to bypass the T-stat till the cycle ends.

At the proper point in the cycle an ADJUSTABLE switch (the +/- screw adjusts this one) closes (Suspect but far down on the list) applying power to the SOLENOID valve (Suspect as well, much higher on the list) opening the water valve.

Now, water, which is provided to the solenoid via a MANUAL VALVE (Suspect #1) should flow up the tube through the wall and down a sluce into the ice tray The tube through the wall is the last suspect. 

Test procedure..

Electrical test: 1: Visually inspect connections at solenoid... Did you disconnect when you winteriszed?

2: Using a test lamp with probes (120 volt) remove connections from solenoid and hook up test lamp, cycle ice maker and WATCH LAMP  Does it come on and go off: Yes: move on, NO suspect switch and wires

3: Using test leads apply 120vac to solenoid, does water flow (NOTE you may wish to disconnect the outlet line and hook up a temp line in it's place)

Water path test:

Disconnect outlet line from solenoid and see if you can blow through it, No air flow means the tube is plugged,  Had one home unit where it kept freezing up in there.

Turn OFF manual valve (It's open now right) disconnect INLEET line from solenoid and open valve a bit to insure water flow TO the solenoid.

  If water and power come in to solenoid, but no water leaves...  Bad solenoid 12 bucks at camping world.
 
Well,  I have proven one thing.  When I had the Dometic recall work done a couple of weeks ago the guy accidentally drove a screw threw a cable containing 4 individual wiresand they were shorted out underneath the shield that he installed.  One was completely severed, another partially.  Fred and I took the  covering off and spliced the two damaged wires.  Because everything else on the refrig was working I assume they were connected to the ice maker.  But the ice maker is still not working.  I cannot find a separate circuit breaker or fuse except the 12v one for the refrig.  We will continue our search.   
 
Jim Johnson  Did the Recall work on your fridge help with anything?  I took mine in this past week and they said they wouldn't do the recall, because it wasn't solving the problem and that I should call the factory again.  Also he stated that to do it right it takes 2 to 3 times the allotted time to repair.  I'm at a loss because this is the 2nd dealer to tell me this.
 
Did the Recall work on your fridge help with anything?

Shayne,


Yeh, it broke my ice maker ???  When I made the appointment the girl said it usually takes about 20 minutes.  When I got it done the tech told me it took longer on mine than any other one, about an hour.  I don't know why. 
 
Jim Johnson said:
Shayne,


Yeh, it broke my ice maker ???  When I made the appointment the girl said it usually takes about 20 minutes.  When I got it done the tech told me it took longer on mine than any other one, about an hour.  I don't know why. 

Guess it took the extra 40 minutes to break your ice maker.
 
Going to call them tomorrow and find what the heck is going on.  If they are like auto recalls some of them do more harm then good as in your case.  Orangewood RV here said it took about an hour and didn't help anything.  factory allowed 20 minutes just as your case.  In fact the Service Rep said their diagram don't even place the kit in the right place and wouldn't be right regardless.  They are probably just doing something to get the government or insurance company off the Butts.  JMO  Thanks for the answer Jim
 
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