Dometic RM 2852 not working

[DonTom]

I got these messages a little too late, haha...

I gave up in troubleshooting and picked up a new (used) fridge...

It will get installed in a few days when I have the time.

It would be a much easier job to fix your old refrigerator than installing the new one.

But if it's the same model, there are perhaps some parts you could use, such as the control board if that is your problem.

Like I said, it's just a control board using a relay to put your 120 VAC on the heater element when on "auto". Nothing is complicated about it. If you have 120 VAC on that heater element and it's still not working, you have an open heater element.

Since your current is so low on AC, it is either your control board or the heater element. Changing either of those is easier than changing the entire refrigerator.

-Don- Reno, NV

 

[USMC_Warrior_0311]

It would be a much easier job to fix your old refrigerator than installing the new one.

But if it's the same model, there are perhaps some parts you could use, such as the control board if that is your problem.

Like I said, it's just a control board using a relay to put your 120 VAC on the heater element when on "auto". Nothing is complicated about it. If you have 120 VAC on that heater element and it's still not working, you have an open heater element.

Since your current is so low on AC, it is either your control board or the heater element. Changing either of those is easier than changing the entire refrigerator.

-Don- Reno, NV

While I don't necessarily disagree with you on that front, I haven't been able to diagnose the issue... I would rather not throw other money at it when I was able to get a working fridge. The time to swap it out isn't too terrible for me. I am in the middle of remodeling the camper so the disassembly is a little more time in that front.

I really appreciate all your help in this matter and will 100% keep you in mind as I get into other stuff with the camper.

 

[Kirk]

I would rather not throw other money at it when I was able to get a working fridge.

You made a wise decision.

 

[DonTom]

I would rather not throw other money at it when I was able to get a working fridge.

Not much money involved in a repair of an RV refrigerator not working on AC. It's just 120 VAC on a $40.00 heating element. The control board relay puts it there.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[Old_Crow]

Not much money involved in a repair of an RV refrigerator not working on AC. It's just 120 VAC on a $40.00 heating element. The control board relay puts it there.

-Don- Auburn, CA

I learned a long time ago that not everyone has the skillset to repair stuff. Me, if I can take it apart, I can generally fix it.
On the other hand, I have a couple of sons that are dangerous every time they get a tool in their hands. They would take one look at that fridge repair and not have the first idea of where to start, even with instructions and a breakdown diagram in front of them.
Those kind of people would be better off replacing instead of repairing.

 

[kcmusa]

a thread in another forum talked about the lines that move the coolant. It should be hot at the heater and as it moves through the system it cools. so you can take temp measurements to see if the line is blocked.
If the fridge was operated off level the coolant can become solid in areas and block the tubes.

 

[DonTom]

a thread in another forum talked about the lines that move the coolant. It should be hot at the heater and as it moves through the system it cools. so you can take temp measurements to see if the line is blocked.
If the fridge was operated off level the coolant can become solid in areas and block the tubes.

See message number 16. If those readings are correct in the first paragraph, the problem is no heat at the heating element.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[USMC_Warrior_0311]

Got the new fridge installed, works great...

Appreciate all the help and input

 

[JayArr]

For future reference, you could have removed the AC heater lines from the control board and just wired them to a plug and plugged it in. If the rear pipes heat up but the fridge doesn't get cold then the cooling unit is toast. This can be done without any voltmeter.

If the rear pipes don't get warm the heater is toast.

If the fridge gets cold with the heater wired directly the cooling unit is OK and you can start to try to figure out why it's not getting heated properly. (thermostat, circuit boards etc) Now you'll need a meter.