Dometic rm1350 stopped cooling

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DonTom

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My Dometic rm1350 totally quit cooling in this last cold snap, anybody experienced this with their unit
Does it not work on propane, AC or both?

BTW, I hear that many RV refrigerators don't work all that great when it is very cold.

IIRC, it has something to do with the sensors detecting it is already cold enough.

So how does it work when it's warmer?

-Don- Auburn, CA
 

John From Detroit

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Many RV fridges do not work well in the cold there are a few "Tricks"
Some folks put an old fashion incandascent lamp in the outside compartmetn to warm the entire area some I'd try 40-60-100 watts caged (Plastic tunnel light cage) use a multi-oulet and plug in with the fridge

Inside some have a LAT switch (Low Ambienty Temp) This overrides the door switch and keeps the interior lamp lit all the time If you don't have the switch it's easy to override the switch. also easy to blow a fuse doing it
 

DonTom

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also easy to blow a fuse doing it
Always remove shore power and remove the neg lead off the house battery when doing anything electrical. Sometimes even the chassis battery as it often goes into the house battery box where much work is often done, as it does in mine.

Two reasons, it used to connect to the propane detector (But I changed mine to use the house battery) and it also has the relay in there for the starting assist, where the house battery is added to the starting battery.

So it is usually best to remove all three sources of power when working on electrical stuff.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 

Donnyrv

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Thanks guys for getting back to me I was having internet issues or would have replied sooner. To answer DonTom no it doesn't work on electric or gas. And no it doesn't work at all even the the weather warmed up to 50 degrees now.
As I think back last week when it was extremely cold at the time the fridge quit working i heard a popping or a clicking sound coming from the fridge sounded like a breaker tripping
 

Donnyrv

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When I checked the breaker panel everything was fine when I opened the fridge to check where this noise was coming from I noticed the light was off
 

John From Detroit

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So it is usually best to remove all three sources of power when working on electrical stuff.

Good advice. however in this case the fuse is a 5 amp job on the Fridg's control board and the reason is it's easy to confuse the two ends of the lamp so instead of jumpering between the "HOT" (12 volt) lead and the "SWITCHED" (positive end of the lamp) you jumper HOT to Ground and blow the fuse. (Don't even bother asking how I know this)
 

DonTom

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When I checked the breaker panel everything was fine when I opened the fridge to check where this noise was coming from I noticed the light was off
What about the very small indicators on the outside of the refrigerator, such as the "auto" and "check" light?

If they cannot light, you have a problem getting the 12 volts to your refrigerator. Then nothing will work.

Also you need to check the 12 volt supply on your refrigerator control board.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 

DonTom

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Good advice.

Today, I decided there are four possible paths to remove. Also the solar. I mention that because I was working on my RV today and got enough sunlight to run some things without a battery connected!

I am simply making a few changes to my own messy wiring in the battery box. Trying to neaten it up a bit and label all the wires that are not obvious from where they are coming from.

BTW, I have an issue with my Dometic RM 2652 now also, mentioned here.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
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