Easier Sewer Hose Connection

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
Domo said:
Vaseline is a petroleum jelly and will slowly degrade rubber and plastics. Please switch to silicone grease or spray - much safer for any of your gear.
Click to expand...
Actually, I have some of that. If it stops raining and gets a bit warmer, I will try that. First, need to find where I put silicone grease. (Also missing two whisk brooms and the stickers for three Canadian provinces for my stick-on map.)
 
ferfer said:
I like your modification too. Bring your water lines in front of the panel is great. Do not know what is left behind the panel but now most of your plumbing is visual. I know what removing the panel requires and it is a pita. Dan gives you (y). On our Georgie Boy the water pump is behind the panel. With contortion can get to it without removing panel but very difficult.

Jennifer
Click to expand...
The other thing Fleetwood did wrong was to put the hookup way back so it requires practically sticking my head in the compartment to reach it. A third design error was putting the flush hose hookup behind the compartment door, so you have to close the door to attach rinse hose, and then you cannot open the door fully until you remove it. So when I am flushing black tank I have to open and close handles by feel.

And my water pump is in a pass-through in another compartment. The pass through is only about 8" tall and hidden behind the filter. I tell dealers when they have to replace pump that it requires a young mechanic with very long arms and who is skinny enough to put his upper body into the compartment to reach the pass-thru.
 
Henry J Fate said:
An easier method is to fabricate a short section of hose that remains connected to the MH fitting which is dropped through the hole enabling the connection to the main hose. I hope I explained it well enough.

A 4 foot section should be long enough to drop through the hole and to the ground where you can easily twist a main hose connection to it. You can attach a longer section if you would like also. There are times when I remove mine to flush out but it depends on the conditions and how and what is being dumped. My shorty hose is about 6 feet long and I rarely need to remove it.
Click to expand...
That's a good idea, but I am not sure it would work on my rig because there is not much room after you hooked it up to feed through the hole. Will take photo tonight hopefully.
 
Judy - You absolutely 100% win the PITA contest on frequency alone. Each time you dump and fill water!! :eek::sick: I wish I could say it keeps your body flexible but it just hurts while hard to do and NEVER gets better! Jennifer

JudyJB said:
The other thing Fleetwood did wrong was to put the hookup way back so it requires practically sticking my head in the compartment to reach it. A third design error was putting the flush hose hookup behind the compartment door, so you have to close the door to attach rinse hose, and then you cannot open the door fully until you remove it. So when I am flushing black tank I have to open and close handles by feel.

And my water pump is in a pass-through in another compartment. The pass through is only about 8" tall and hidden behind the filter. I tell dealers when they have to replace pump that it requires a young mechanic with very long arms and who is skinny enough to put his upper body into the compartment to reach the pass-thru
Click to expand...
 
ferfer said:
I like your modification too. Bring your water lines in front of the panel is great. Do not know what is left behind the panel but now most of your plumbing is visual. I know what removing the panel requires and it is a pita. Dan gives you (y). On our Georgie Boy the water pump is behind the panel. With contortion can get to it without removing panel but very difficult.

Jennifer
Click to expand...
Our water pump was originally located in one of the bedside cabinets where it was really annoying when it ran during the night. I relocated the pump to where it is now, and the hoses you can see are for vibration dampening. The hose that's hanging over the panel is a suction hose that I can use for filling the water tank from jugs or for adding anti-freeze to the plumbing.
 
Dutch Invention is the mother of necessity and you certainly improved the design. Water pump in bedroom... SERIOUSLY! Being full timers also encouraged you to simplify routine task because you are at the mercy of location and weather. Then there is CharlesinGA braille system.

Judy, Dutch and Charles - Thank ya'll for making me feel better about our system and that it is not a PITA every time we use it. :D

Jennifer
 
The one thing a sales person NEVER says to make the sale when you are buying a new motorhome or RV is "You'll love the location and convenience of the water pump and dump hookups!" Plus, if you are at a show, they pack them in so tightly, you can't look at storage underneath or things like dump setups.

Several years ago, I was at the Decatur Factory getting something fixed and was chatting with the service manager. He admitted that they built a lot of Class As once and sold them before they realized there was no way to reach the water pump, so they had to recall them all and cut a hole in the outside and add an access panel so the water pumps could be serviced!!

I could also tell you about GM once forgetting to ship 1,400 Cadillacs once in the 90s. (They left them in a storage lot for so long, they were worried about the paint fading. This was when bar coding was new.) Every industry has its goofs, but some just don't care.
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking a 90° elbow pointing straight outboard with a short hose like Henry referred to. Then below the door gasket, it there if enough sidewall, an opening, easily sealed with a boat deck plate. The short hose could easily curl around to the back and stay out of the way, and then to use it, open the deck plate and pass it out the side thru the hole, and connect your regular hose to it.

This is all dependent on the elbow making the turn so it is completely above the bottom of the compartment.

s-l1600.webp


The problem with this is you now have TWO hoses you are trying to connect together, which may not be workable. (even I might have a hard time with that!)

Alternative is the elbow, with a straight extension that ends INSIDE the compartment. You put the hose thru the deck plate opening, which is easy as it is on the side and right in front of you, then grab it and connect it to the rigid extension (which would need to be mounted with a clamp or U-bolt to the floor of the compartment, and have enough of an opening under it to allow spillage to drain out.

Another possibility is an elbow, pointing straight out, with an extension that protrudes thru an opening in the side, no deck plate, just a hole big enough to fit the pipe thru, and the cap on the outside. Again, the extension needs to be securely mounted. This is no worse than trailers with open plumbing hanging out under them.

All of my suggestions depend on having enough sidewall height to either mount the deck plate or make a hole of sufficient size for the extension to protrude thru.

custom length extensions can be built using glue on ends and 3 inch ABS or PVC pipe (with the right glue).

Charles
 
Last edited:
You could convert to cam-lok fittings. These are what is used for chemical, fuel, gasoline, food grade liquid deliveries from tank trucks and trailers. Much easier to hook up and disconnect than the bayonet style connectors.

LINK TO INSTALL of cam-lok fitting.

You can buy sewer hoses with the male cam-lok already made or install new ends on your existing hose.
 
Believer45 said:
You could convert to cam-lok fittings. These are what is used for chemical, fuel, gasoline, food grade liquid deliveries from tank trucks and trailers. Much easier to hook up and disconnect than the bayonet style connectors.

LINK TO INSTALL of cam-lok fitting.

You can buy sewer hoses with the male cam-lok already made or install new ends on your existing hose.
Click to expand...
I'm wondering why the guy kept opening and closing the cams when fitting the connection over the pipe? The cams had nothing to do with the fit. I've glued enough 3" & 4" ABS pipe to circle the globe and never sanded a fitting ever, it's completely unnecessary. But otherwise, it's a great idea in as far as the cam connection.
 
Last edited:
Onyrlef said:
I'm wondering why the guy kept opening and closing the cams when fitting the connection over the pipe? The cams had nothing to do with the fit. I've glued enough 3" & 4" ABS pipe to circle the globe and never sanded a fitting ever, it's completely unnecessary. But it's a great idea.
Click to expand...
If the bayonet fitting had been used to dump, I'd be concerned about any residual coating that might interfere with good adhesion. Light sanding would be good insurance.
 
This is what I have. The clear elbow swivels so everything is inside and then swivels out out for dumping Where the hose attaches also swivels.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240915_090831653_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20240915_090831653_HDR.jpg
    138.2 KB · Views: 9
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 1,246 (members: 41, guests: 1,205)

Forum statistics

Threads
133,618
Posts
1,413,472
Members
139,206
Latest member
Moussaishak
Back
Top Bottom