Electrical 12V upgrade: superb results

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

bigfatguy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2013
Posts
124
Our ERA 170M came with two AGM batteries, no inverter, and a fairly low-grade charger. It also has a DC-only fridge.

When it was new, we had to run the engine for at least an hour a day or the fridge would kill the battery overnight. Recently, the batteries would not last the night almost no matter what we did.

Charging the batteries fully by plugging in to shore power or running the generator could take 3 days.

The best source of power for the batteries was the Sprinter alternator, which has a limited capacity for additional loads.

$10k later, and a trip to Reno, we've got two Battleborn batteries, a Victron charger/inverter with one of them fancy control touch-screen interfaces, a Nation's High Output alternator installed as a 2nd alternator on the rig, and some wiring improvements to prepare for future expansion of the battery bank and to keep the Van and House 12v systems separate from each other.

In testing since we've gotten home, we ran the fridge for 3 nights without charging, and likely could have made it a 4th, but just barely. The batteries recharge to 100% with a few hours of driving, or overnight when plugged in. We can run the AC on batteries alone (for about an hour and a half), or turn on the engine and use it as a generator.

The more I learn about how well this system works now, the more pissed off I am at Winnebago for their terrible bottom-basement equipment selections.

If you've been thinking about such an upgrade, it's a fantastic idea...

For the record, our next electrical upgrade will be to yank the generator out completely and replace it with a battery bank of similar size... I figure that will give us 6 or 8 batteries in total in the rig.
 
It also has a DC-only fridge.
I have never heard of such. Since they require more than 300 watts (~25 amps at 12.5 volts) to work reasonably, I cannot believe any RV would have a DC only refrigerator.

What is the make and model number of your refrigerator?

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
Last edited:
NovaKool RFU6209. It was originally AC/DC, but Winnibago never connected the AC, and the control board had a severe reliability issue. The replacement is DC only.

It draws, based on my measurements, about 6-7A when running.

With AGM batteries, it was horrible and could drain the batteries completely in one night if I turned it up to full power. With Lithium, it's quite good.
 
I have never heard of such. Since they require more than 300 watts (~25 amps at 12.5 volts) to work reasonably, I cannot believe any RV would have a DC only refrigerator.

What is the make and model number of your refrigerator?

-Don- Auburn, CA
A couple or three years ago Winnebago started putting an electric only fridge in their smaller RV's such as the View and others. Lots of complaints from people wanting to dry camp or boondock.
 
That's still getting close to 90 watts (12 volt system, I assume). I am surprised they made them that efficient on 12 volts, but I am also surprised an RV will be designed for such, even with a 6 to 7 amp draw. Not reasonable, IMO, for boondocking. But I boondock a lot. I guess to those who mostly use RV parks that have electricity, it makes little difference.

How many AH of lith do you have?

I am waiting for this battery here and my refrigerator doesn't run on DC only. I should get my new battery in two or three days.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
I wonder why. ;) What type of battery does it come with? How many AH?

-Don- Auburn, CA
it comes with two AGM batteries about the same size as a Battleborn 100AH. Not sure how many cold-cranking amps they are rated for, but they are pretty big and heavy... but, being AGM, you can't run them down very far. It also doesn't come with any kind of current-tracking system (just a volt-meter), which makes estimation of such things tough.

We upgraded to 200AH, but it's a "true" 200AH... you can run these batteries down damn near to vapors. We've pulled as much as 168AH from them with no trouble.
 
it comes with two AGM batteries about the same size as a Battleborn 100AH. Not sure how many cold-cranking amps they are rated for, but they are pretty big and heavy... but, being AGM, you can't run them down very far. It also doesn't come with any kind of current-tracking system (just a volt-meter), which makes estimation of such things tough.

We upgraded to 200AH, but it's a "true" 200AH... you can run these batteries down damn near to vapors. We've pulled as much as 168AH from them with no trouble.
Hey guys... I'm very new to rv wiring and such, but wondering, can you cut that ac plug on fridges and other like small appliances and wiring direct ac if they are not 3 prong?
 
it comes with two AGM batteries about the same size as a Battleborn 100AH. Not sure how many cold-cranking amps they are rated for, but they are pretty big and heavy... but, being AGM, you can't run them down very far. It also doesn't come with any kind of current-tracking system (just a volt-meter), which makes estimation of such things tough.

We upgraded to 200AH, but it's a "true" 200AH... you can run these batteries down damn near to vapors. We've pulled as much as 168AH from them with no trouble.
I decent Deep Cycle House battery should have NO CCA rating at all. When you see either a CCA or a MCA mentioned, you know it is not the best battery for an RV house battery. Engine starting batteries make very lousy house batteries.

Marine batteries are kinda in the middle of the two.

Lithium RV batteries are probably the worse batteries there are for starting engines. That is what makes them great RV house batteries!

Engine starting batteries are for VERY high current for a few seconds.

House batteries are for much lower currents but for a MUCH longer time.

However, in an emergency either should work for either, just not for nearly as long as what they are designed for.

When I shop for RV house batteries, as soon as I see "CCA" or "MCA" mentioned, I know it is NOT a good house battery.

BTW, I wonder why they don't use the cab battery to start the house generator. At least my RV doesn't, but probably should be that way. I think that would make more sense. Perhaps too much expense involved in making that type of change, when house batteries can still get the job done.

-Don- Auburn, CA
 
Hey guys... I'm very new to rv wiring and such, but wondering, can you cut that ac plug on fridges and other like small appliances and wiring direct ac if they are not 3 prong?
I suspect you'll get more and better answers if you create a new thread, but the AC inlet into your RV (the plug on the outside) AND your inverter (if you have one) should both have a ground wire. You should use it!
 
I decent Deep Cycle House battery should have NO CCA rating at all. When you see either a CCA or a MCA mentioned, you know it is not the best battery for an RV house battery. Engine starting batteries make very lousy house batteries.



-Don- Auburn, CA
That is correct. (Sorry, I'm not that kind of electrical engineer. :) )

These were some big, heavy deep-cycle AGM.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
131,929
Posts
1,387,666
Members
137,677
Latest member
automedicmobile
Back
Top Bottom