Electrical Problems on 2014 Flagstaff Classic Super Lite 831BHDS

[lsutailgater]

OK, complete newb to camping, previously spent most of my life trying to keep various boats running.  Initially when plugged into Shore Power (50 Amp system), everything worked fine.  Left it plugged in (it's at a park about 2 hours from me).  Went back in a couple of weeks, battery was dead, and front power jack wouldn't work, plugged in to truck with jumper cables or swapping out to a hot battery.  Everything else seemed to work OK.  Return a week later, battery has drained a bit, everything else OK.  Plugged in newly purchased surge protector (it reads the pedestal as all good) and then I plug the cord back into it (rookie mistake with everything running) and boom.  Everything shuts down.  A/C breaker is tripped, no other breakers tripped, fuses all good, GFCI's all tested and reset, nada.  Only the inside and outside microwaves have power.  Pull out the battery switch inside the door and everything works. 

So stupid question #1-should that stay pulled out?  I thought this push/pull wouldn't affect anything when plugged into Shore Power?

Assuming that isn't it, could it be that the little circuit breakers under the trailer itself (two little gray two post boxes about the size of my thumb) blew?  I read after getting back home that some have a manual reset, but I can't confirm or deny that these do.  Maybe this is contributing to the front jack not working?  The only other relevant information I can supply is that the trailer has stabilizer/outrigger feet that come down on either side front and back, and when I retrofitted it with scissor jacks, unbeknownst to me, my buddy removed the back legs and cut the wires leading to it.  I don't know enough about circuits to know if cutting those wires somehow impacted things elsewhere.  Not the greatest start in the world to something I've been anticipating for so long. 

Finally, it appears that detailed manuals for specific Forest River models are available on-line for 2015 on, so guess I am SOL on finding wiring diagrams or such easily.

Any help at least suggesting where and what to check/meter/replace would be appreciated.  Really don't want to haul it back to the dealer so soon. 

 

[donn]

By pull out, I assume your saying you turned on the salesman switch?  If that what you did, you need to leave it on.  When its off, it kills ALL12 volt power to everything including battery charge.  Most ACs jow days need 12VDC thru the thermostat to work.  Basically the only things not 12VDC are the AC mai  power, microwave, refer some .  The refer alao needs 12VDC for control voltage, all lights, and furnace are 12VDC.

 

[John From Detroit]

Some things. IE: the jacks, are connected to the batteries directly not to the house wiring. And the batteries WILL run down all by themselves even if disconnected. So  unless you have a old RV with something like a Magnetek 6300 converter.. Leave 'em connected so the house can charge them.

 

[grashley]

Welcome to the Forum!

Since you are an admitted newbe, here is some basic information.
12VDC can come from two sources - the battery and the converter (converts 120VAC to 12VDC).  This powers MOST of the camper and is required for control circuits on the A/C, fridge, water heater regardless of primary power supply.  The furnace is 12V only.
The converter can supply 12V to the camper when connected to shore power.  It also charges the battery - unless the "salesman switch" is off.
The battery powers the tongue jack and slide outs without going through the main electrical panel.  They do have in line fuses.
There are breakers between the battery and the main panel, usually under the front of the camper, near the battery.
A battery will discharge even when everything is supposed to be off.  Certain things like LP and CO detector are frequently wired directly to the battery, bypassing the "salesman switch".  Batteries also slowly discharge due to internal drain.  The best way to completely shut off all battery drain is to install a battery disconnect directly on the battery or to disconnect the + cable from the battery.

Hope this helps!

 

[Gizmo100]

Looks like you've received some good answers so I'll just say Welcome to the RV Forum lsutailgater

 

[lsutailgater]

Thanks everyone.  I'm guessing that pushing in what you guys are calling the salesman switch means I was completely disabling everything.  No wonder it all worked when I pulled it out, I thought that I was being smart and conserving the battery.  :-[

Thanks, this looks like a fantastic site, already have it loaded on my phone for my inevitable next mistake.  Haha

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

"Salesman switch" is a colloquial name for the Battery Disconnect or 12v Main power switch.  RV salesmen often use it as a quick way to turn power on/off.  In some (few) RVs is it strictly a Battery Disconnect, taking the battery(s) offline, but in most newer models it takes the entire 12v system offline, whether the 12v source is battery or converter. The converter is what produces 12v when on shore power, so your switch is the Main Power type. When it is off, no 12v power and thus anything that depends on it won't work. Almost every system in the RV uses at least a little 12v (for control circuit boards). Even the a/c (the thermostat is 12v powered).