Entry door window slid down

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Debra17

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Posts
431
Location
Colorado
I have been having some issues with my entry door. The door unit was manufactured by Lippert. I had the screen door replaced last year under warranty. The entry door has always been somewhat difficult to open and close. Northwood uses what they call friction hinges on their doors. Since I had no prior experience with them, I just thought it was normal. However I think there is some issue with the hinges or something else. The door had gotten to where it was extremely hard to close. The bottom corner was dragging and a screw head was gouging out the door frame. Also the latch is dragging. I took it in for service about 2 weeks ago and they said it just needed to be lubed which was done. It was better for a few days, but then again started to get harder to close.  I had a reflectix cover on the window which I removed yesterday. At that time I saw the window pane has slid down and there is about about a 1 inch gap at the top. I?m not sure how long it has been like that as I didn?t notice it until I took off the cover. Also the window frame on the outside bottom is cracking.

I need to figure out what is going on with the door but in the meantime need to fix the window. There are screws on the inside that I assume hold the two halves together. Has anyone one here taken apart their door window?  I?m wondering if the 2 halves can be separated and the pane put back in place and then screw the 2 halves back together? I?m concerned there may be parts inside which may come loose, or if the thing will fall apart and I won?t be able to get it back together?  I would appreciate any tips or insight in how I might fix this.

If I were to call someone for repair, should this be something a regular rv tech should be able to repair? Or would it be a company that specializes in windows? 
 

Attachments

  • 393620FF-251D-4C2D-BEF1-D1F4D659242C.jpeg
    393620FF-251D-4C2D-BEF1-D1F4D659242C.jpeg
    140 KB · Views: 63

Arch Hoagland

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Posts
4,028
Location
Clovis California
I wonder if the reflectix was trapping excessive heat and caused the stuff to go bad. 

I've seen glass guys use suction cups on smooth glass surfaces to move the glass around.

I wonder if you could slide the glass up and wedge a piece of wood in the bottom like darsben has on his.
 

Heli_av8tor

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2017
Posts
1,008
Location
NW Illinois
Hi Debra,

With the repairs I've known you to tackle I'm betting you can do this too.

The main danger I see is the glass getting away from you. Large suction cups should be available at auto parts stores or maybe Harbor Freight.

Good Luck!

Hope to see you at Q  next winter.
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,469
Location
Farmington NH
I had the same issue 2 months ago. Very simple job to fix. The glass sits on a couple of standoffs and they probably broke off allowing the window to slide down.

With the help of another person, remove all the screws. Then remove the inside frame, the glass and the outside frame. You'll see the broken standoffs. Take the entire frame assemble (inner and outer) and flip/rotate them 180 degrees. Now you'll have a fresh set of standoffs for the glass to sit on.
Clean out the groove of old caulk. I purchased some butyl caulk in a tube and filled the groove. I also put a couple of wooden blocks under where the glass will be to catch the glass if the 2 new standoffs break again.
 

8Muddypaws

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2014
Posts
3,555
Location
California
Do as Rene suggests BUT.....

Cut a piece of wood down so that it fits perfectly between the door and the bottom of the window.  Glue it in place with hot glue.

The window won?t fall again.
 

Lou Schneider

Site Team
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Posts
11,784
I'd use a couple of pieces of duck tape to hold the outside rim in place while you're working on the inside stuff.

Yes, the outer rim should be puttied or caulked in place, but since you're working alone it's cheap insurance against accidentally pushing the window and rim through the door.

WD-40 or Goof Off will remove any adhesive that sticks to the rim or the door after you remove the tape.
 

viceprice

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Posts
322
Location
Maine
I think heat can contribute to this. My son had this happen after he relocated to S. California. He had to replace the plastic window frame. You can find YouTube videos that will show what has already been described.
 

Debra17

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Posts
431
Location
Colorado
Thanks everyone for the great info!  I love this forum!  I feel pretty comfortable about repairing the window myself. I hope to recruit another pair of hands but if not I?ll use the duct tape.

Tom, thanks for the vote of confidence, much appreciated ?. I probably won?t be at Q this year. I?m scheduled to volunteer at the Cave Creek Visitor Information Center in Portal AZ mid November thru January. I?ll miss seeing everyone.
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,469
Location
Farmington NH
This is the butyl caulk I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HMIS74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Debra17

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Posts
431
Location
Colorado
I googled the window frame to see what the cost is to buy a new frame. The existing frame has a crack on the outside piece. It is on the bottom so if I flip the pieces it would be on the top and could allow water entry. I found the frame on Amazon for $30. The frame has the butyl seals included so I wouldn?t need to purchase butyl caulk which is $13. I have a $6 credit on Amazon which make the final cost $26.  So I figured for $13 more I should go with the new frame.  Also I saw a video on etrailer showing how to install it. Looks pretty straightforward. It will take about a week to get here. Thanks again for everyone?s input!  Once I get the new frame installed I?ll post again on the results.
 

Rene T

Site Team
Joined
May 20, 2011
Posts
19,469
Location
Farmington NH
Are you getting the inside and outside frame?  One thing I would still do is fit a block of wood under the glass like I said earlier so that in the future when the pins break again, the glass will only slide down to the block of wood. put a small block outside of each pin and one in the middle.
 

Debra17

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Posts
431
Location
Colorado
Yes it is both pieces. I?m planning to put the wood blocks in as you suggested. I don?t want to do this again ?. I couldn?t get the butyl caulk locally. Since I would have to order the caulk online, I figured I might as well get the new frame.
 

Debra17

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Posts
431
Location
Colorado
I received the new window frame I ordered from Amazon. This is the specific item I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-11021-Deluxe-Window/dp/B00JPJLO1G

Today I tackled the replacement. It was a pretty easy job. I had viewed a video on etrailer.com that showed how to do it. My neighbor in the site next to me helped out. We ripped some pieces of 2x2 down to the right size to fit beneath the glass. The new frame fit perfectly into the window opening.

Attached are photos of the old frame. The first shows the bottom inside piece. The frame warped to the inside which is what allowed the glass to slide down. The standoffs were not actually broken off. The second is the top of the outside piece. It also is warped and was cracking. I do wonder if using the reflectix cover on the window caused or at least contributed to this. I may not use it any more.

Thanks again for all the advice that helped me to do this repair myself!
 

Attachments

  • 23879B62-DF09-42CF-8540-2AED2A9A5B8C.jpeg
    23879B62-DF09-42CF-8540-2AED2A9A5B8C.jpeg
    208.4 KB · Views: 28
  • 3A49E482-AB95-4B8E-9351-A7DC5C16EA66.jpeg
    3A49E482-AB95-4B8E-9351-A7DC5C16EA66.jpeg
    163.8 KB · Views: 25

Kevin Means

Site Team
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
5,050
Location
Lakeside, California
So Debra... should we schedule KOFA for early February, or are you heading up to Colorado immediately after your volunteer period? It wouldn't be the same without you. (BTW... glad you got your window fixed)

Kev
 

HueyPilotVN

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2012
Posts
2,588
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
One of these years I am going to make it to KOFA.

Last year I only made it as far as Q after the Stacker tried to pass me. (make that push me thru the intersection), at the bottom of Parker Hill.

That was a heart stopping experience.
 

Debra17

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2016
Posts
431
Location
Colorado
Kevin Means said:
So Debra... should we schedule KOFA for early February, or are you heading up to Colorado immediately after your volunteer period? It wouldn't be the same without you. (BTW... glad you got your window fixed)

Kev

Hi Kev, I?ll be around in Arizona for awhile before I head north. That would be great to do a KOFA rally sometime in February. If it works out to do that I?ll be there!
 

Heli_av8tor

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2017
Posts
1,008
Location
NW Illinois
We're planning KOFA in January and Yuma in Feb/Mar.

Could be persuaded to come back to KOFA for a couple days in Feb like we did last year.
 
Top Bottom