Essential Hoses and Chocks for a New Travel Trailer

[Mark_K5LXP]

I've always just shoved the cork into the bottle. Yeah, you lose the ability to use it as a stopper if you don't finish it, but that just means you have to finish it...

I've done a lot of tent camping over the years so I had a pretty good idea what to start off with in the RV. While mitigating all potential issues is a nice thought, that translates to carrying a lot of crap around you hardly use. I saw a guy at quartzsite with enough tools to rebuild an engine. Several basement compartments of snap on drawer and cabinet units, had to be several thousand pounds. Why? I generally carry enough to cover the 90% of the time problems, anything else will have to wait or be done professionally. I have yet to be stuck anywhere for any reason with a nominal spares kit and horror fright tool set. If I carried 200' of hose, 150' of it would have never been uncoiled but taking up valuable storage space and capacity. I have two stinky slinkies but can count on one hand how many times I've used the second. Probably could've gotten by until the next dump if I had to. DW would carry 3 dozen rolls of TP if it were up to her, never mind we'd run out of gas or water before two are used. So, while most of the suggestions above are valid for those that post them, resist the urge to pack for "just in case". You don't need a 17 piece cookware set, kitchenaid mixer, 18 pairs of shoes and a place setting service for 12. As a standard practice, every trip I take I make note of what I actually lacked and add it to the checklist. After the first couple years, I have added maybe a half dozen things to the list. In the spring I'll print the list out and lay hands on every item both to make sure it's there, and decide if it needs to stay. I would say most things people schlep around they could get by without, or at least get by until the next wally world stop. Save all the cargo space and weight for the important stuff you'll accumulate in the course of your travels.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[TheBar]

As far as water hoses I 2nd the Zero Gravity hose which has a 10 year warranty. My water compartment in the basement never needs that end unconnected so it gets stored in a figure 8 pattern. So a hose that does not kink is essential for me. Its also much lighter weight. It does not collapse but lays flat which takes up way less room.

A couple years ago at the house I bought a 100' stainless steel covered hose. I love it because it is amazingly lightweight and absolutely will never kink. But that type takes up too much room in the RV compartment.

I also 2nd having a spare sewer hose. When you go to dump your tank you'll appreciate having a spare.

 

[poohbear]

After what we pay for our truck /rv or MH and after fuel and the campsite cost who can afford wine that has a cork and not a twist off cap?

 

[gwinger]

I'll quibble a bit on this because the top-grade 50A extensions are supple and easy to coil. But they also cost more, maybe 25%-30% more. Worth it if you lack patience.

Don't go crazy buying everything somebody says you might need. As was said earlier in this thread, what you need for hoses, drain lines, and power cords will vary widely with where you go. And what equipment your trailer came with - it may well have a starter package on fresh water hose, drain hose, etc. It will likely be cheap stuff, but enough to get by on until you learn what you really need/want.

Personally I favor multiple short cords & hoses so I can match the length to the site's needs.

Basic hand tools are good to have but your selection should be what you know how to use. And get a cheap VOM (multi-meter) and learn how to take voltage and continuity readings. It will come with a manual and there are videos online too. A $15-$25 VOM is sufficient.

Those Harbor Freight chocks don't fit well with most TT tires.
I made my own using three pieces of 2x6 treated lumber bolted together. I traced the tire profile on them and cut with a band saw. Perfect fit.
One 8 foot board will make four chocks.

 

[Rene T]

Those Harbor Freight chocks don't fit well with most TT tires.
I made my own using three pieces of 2x6 treated lumber bolted together. I traced the tire profile on them and cut with a band saw. Perfect fit.
One 8 foot board will make four chocks.
View attachment 2497150

Not everyone has a bandsaw

 

[gwinger]

Not everyone has a bandsaw

Never mind, I was just making a suggestion.
But MOST people know someone who has one.
You can cut each piece individually with a jig saw, if you have one!

 

[Ex-Calif]

I've always just shoved the cork into the bottle. Yeah, you lose the ability to use it as a stopper if you don't finish it, but that just means you have to finish it...

I've done a lot of tent camping over the years so I had a pretty good idea what to start off with in the RV. While mitigating all potential issues is a nice thought, that translates to carrying a lot of crap around you hardly use. I saw a guy at quartzsite with enough tools to rebuild an engine. Several basement compartments of snap on drawer and cabinet units, had to be several thousand pounds. Why? I generally carry enough to cover the 90% of the time problems, anything else will have to wait or be done professionally. I have yet to be stuck anywhere for any reason with a nominal spares kit and horror fright tool set. If I carried 200' of hose, 150' of it would have never been uncoiled but taking up valuable storage space and capacity. I have two stinky slinkies but can count on one hand how many times I've used the second. Probably could've gotten by until the next dump if I had to. DW would carry 3 dozen rolls of TP if it were up to her, never mind we'd run out of gas or water before two are used. So, while most of the suggestions above are valid for those that post them, resist the urge to pack for "just in case". You don't need a 17 piece cookware set, kitchenaid mixer, 18 pairs of shoes and a place setting service for 12. As a standard practice, every trip I take I make note of what I actually lacked and add it to the checklist. After the first couple years, I have added maybe a half dozen things to the list. In the spring I'll print the list out and lay hands on every item both to make sure it's there, and decide if it needs to stay. I would say most things people schlep around they could get by without, or at least get by until the next wally world stop. Save all the cargo space and weight for the important stuff you'll accumulate in the course of your travels.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

Overpacking is a huge risk. Start minimal add as personal experience grows... watch total crap accumulation.Marie Kondo. If it doesn't give me joy I dump it.

 

[Jerzey]

thank you all so much for your input as well as sharing your experience! I pick up my new camper today! I placed many of the items suggested in a Walmart online cart and am waiting until I get the camper home to take accurate measurements so it all fits in just fine. I specially liked the suggestions for a credit card( I'm sure ill need that for the first couple outings!) and also the cork screw! I definitely would have forgotten that.

I want to make a few "pads" for leveling up the tires a bit and getting them off the ground; I think(?). I'm thinking about just buying a 2x8 and cutting to do the job, yet, small for storage. Should I make them 7-8" longer than the tire resting contact to leave room for the chocks? Maybe I'm over thinking? Just wondering if the chocks would work if the tire is elevated? Or, is there a system I can purchase that ya'll use that deals with these issues?

Again, I appreciate your insight until I get past the "probe" stuff! Thank you so much,
Jerry

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Your tire pads need to be long enough for the tandem pair, not just the single tire patch. And long enough that you have some inches to spare as you pull/back the trailer onto them. Some owners use one long board for the pair, while others use half-lengths for easier handling and storage.

You don't need tire pads for short camping stays except as may be useful for leveling. Keeping tires off the ground is a storage thing, and then only needed if the surface is not well-drained and firm. But speaking of leveling, how will you handle that? Built-in adjustable jacks, stacked pads or boards, or ?

 

[Ex-Calif]

I have a 10 pak of these plus 4 extras that were in the trailer. Plus a short piece or 2X6 and a stup of 4X4.

Plus 2 standard chocks.

So far it's been enough.

We are very nose down here so all but 2 pieces are in use.

 

[Chef Duane]

I have a bandsaw and use Harbor Freight chocks.

 

[old_toys]

long time ago we camped beside an older guy that was hooking up his sewer line. he had sections of 3 inch pic pipe that was split in half lengthwise and cut to length he wanted. he laid the sections on the slinky sewer pipe. this eliminated the pipe that wanted to dip down between the zigs and zags and hold water. I had this problem with my hoses before I suppose the hot shower water softens the hose and it does the dip number. didn't take me long when we got home to head to Lowes and make my own pic adapters.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

this eliminated the pipe that wanted to dip down between the zigs and zags and hold water.

Those dips serve a useful purpose - they make a sort of P-trap that prevents odors and sewer flies form finding their way back to the RV tank. Quite helpful if you stay longer and leave the gray tank valve open. Some RVers intentionally put a hump in the sewer line to achieve it. The downside, of course, is that you have to lift the hose a bit to drain it before disconnecting.

 

[gwinger]

Those dips serve a useful purpose - they make a sort of P-trap that prevents odors and sewer flies form finding their way back to the RV tank. Quite helpful if you stay longer and leave the gray tank valve open. Some RVers intentionally put a hump in the sewer line to achieve it. The downside, of course, is that you have to lift the hose a bit to drain it before disconnecting.

You have to lift it to flush it properly so no big deal.
I try to get the dip in mine as close to the sewer outlet as possible.

 

[Brad Buchanan]

Not everyone has a bandsaw

I cut the same on my 10" table saw.
You just need to match the angles.

 

[gwinger]

I cut the same on my 10" table saw.
You just need to match the angles.

Since I have a bandsaw, I cut the curves. Perfect match to the tire profile.
Using your table saw accomplished the same thing. Better fit than the store bought ones.

 

[Brad Buchanan]

Since I have a bandsaw, I cut the curves. Perfect match to the tire profile.
Using your table saw accomplished the same thing. Better fit than the store bought ones.

You are correct. I actually just wanted tire chocks and cut a 12" piece of pressure treated and attached a strap like you did.

Btw I have a 36" band saw that I could have used. I currently have it up for sale.

 

[Brad Buchanan]

You are correct. I actually just wanted tire chocks and cut a 12" piece of pressure treated and attached a strap like you did.

Btw I have a 36" band saw that I could have used. I currently have it up for sale.

 

[gwinger]

Where do you buy blades for that monster and what do they cost?

 

[Rene T]

Where do you buy blades for that monster and what do they cost?

The last place I worked aT the saw also had a built in welder that allowed us to make our own blades. We just had to by the saw material that came rolled up on a reel.
I cant tell if this saw has that option. It would be in the area behind the left end of the white paper