Essential Hoses and Chocks for a New Travel Trailer

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Original Member Title: new trailer and truck! need stuff!
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A new travel trailer owner asked what sewer hose length, fresh water hoses, black tank or utility hoses, and chocks to buy before taking delivery of a roughly 7,500 lb loaded trailer. Members generally suggested having more than one sewer hose section, commonly combinations such as 20 ft plus 10 ft or 25 ft plus 10 ft, because campsite hookups vary, while also noting that some RVers carry much longer setups depending on where they camp.

Several members recommended a dedicated fresh water...
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Those Harbor Freight chocks don't fit well with most TT tires.
Not sure what your issue is with the HF chocks, they are a good fit to the tires.

First pic is ST225/75R15 Endurance trailer tire. Second pic is LT245/75R16 Michelin Agilis on my RAM 2500.

Third pic is Balsam Mtn, GSMNP off the BPR. Thats a rather steep incline at that site.
 

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Not sure what your issue is with the HF chocks, they are a good fit to the tires.

First pic is ST225/75R15 Endurance trailer tire. Second pic is LT245/75R16 Michelin Agilis on my RAM 2500.

Third pic is Balsam Mtn, GSMNP off the BPR. Thats a rather steep incline at that site.
At $5:00 a piece, how can you go wrong. If they don’t fit well, return them
 
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with all the blow outs I've had on the toy hauler I learned never leave home without this ramp. when you are off the road as far as you can get to change the tire and the semi's are still rocking your trailer , you don't want to be dependent on a little sizer or bottle jack. this has cleats to keep it from moving while pulling or backing the good tire on it.
Screenshot 2026-08-23 at 6.32.58 AM.png
 
Your tire pads need to be long enough for the tandem pair, not just the single tire patch. And long enough that you have some inches to spare as you pull/back the trailer onto them. Some owners use one long board for the pair, while others use half-lengths for easier handling and storage.

You don't need tire pads for short camping stays except as may be useful for leveling. Keeping tires off the ground is a storage thing, and then only needed if the surface is not well-drained and firm. But speaking of leveling, how will you handle that? Built-in adjustable jacks, stacked pads or boards, or ?
Hey Gary!! I have built in stabilizers. I guess I will use the pads for the long term stays and storage, as suggested. I think I will make the chocks as previously suggest, as well. Gives me something to tinker with and save a few bucks(usually have scrap wood in my garage)

Thank you
 
I have built in stabilizers.
Most RV stabilizers are not designed to level the RV but only to minimize the movement while set up. You may have a built on leveling system but they are not the same as the typical stabilizers found on most travel trailers.
 
Where do you buy blades for that monster and what do they cost?
Pretty standard blades and I think the last one I bought was $80.00 or so. It will take rip blades up to 1" if I remember correctly. I have yet to need a part that was not readily available.
 
thank you all for your experiences! Last, butIm sure not least, toilet paper. do I need a special camper toilet paper?I was going to bring what I use at home; Scott toilet tissue. Its kinda thin(cheap- I'm a bit frugal).
 
My new to me trailer had 3 rolls of RV paper in it. I forgot how terrible it is. People end up using 2X3 as much anyway.

I use WM Soft and Strong. Keep up with Black tank maintenance and you will be fine. Just be cognizant of the paper to waste/fluid ratio. You simply don't want the blank tank running sludgie or dry.

By maintenance I mean get a flushing wand and flush the tank from the top after every trip or about 4-5 cycles. I do mine after every sewer disconnect.
 
My new to me trailer had 3 rolls of RV paper in it. I forgot how terrible it is. People end up using 2X3 as much anyway.

I use WM Soft and Strong. Keep up with Black tank maintenance and you will be fine. Just be cognizant of the paper to waste/fluid ratio. You simply don't want the blank tank running sludgie or dry.

By maintenance I mean get a flushing wand and flush the tank from the top after every trip or about 4-5 cycles. I do mine after every sewer disconnect.
We use the Sam's Club brand. And unless it's a #2 dump, we use a small waste basket lined with a plastic bag next to the toilet.
One way to test the paper is to put a few sheets in a glass jar, fill with water and shake it for about 10 seconds. If the paper dissolves, it's good to go.
 
It's all about the 'whoosh'. I put a glug of dawn and a chunk of borax in the tank, primed with a couple gallons of fresh to start. Then what goes in there, goes in there until it's full or we end up at a dump stop. If it's not full, I run fresh in until it is. That way you get the most flow you can - the whoosh. I also do a few cycles of 'backwash' with the gray - leave the black open after it drains and opening/closing the gray a few times so there's a little extra rinse. I've never done any pressure washing, tank treatments nor cared about dissolving paper in the years I've had it. Don't obscess over it, it's easy to just top it off if it's not already, dump and go.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
I was going to bring what I use at home; Scott toilet tissue. Its kinda thin(cheap- I'm a bit frugal).
Just make sure that it says "septic safe" somewhere on the label, as most do and then don't use excessive amounts and you will be fine. Always be generous in the use of water in the toilet bowl if depositing solids or using TP and never put anything that hasn't passed through a human body into it except for TP and water. Do that and only dump the tank when at least half full and you will be fine. There are many people with products or home brew mixtures that they believe in and most of them won't harm anything if used with enough water, but they are a major example of flushing your money down the toilet.
 
Just make sure that it says "septic safe" somewhere on the label, as most do and then don't use excessive amounts and you will be fine. Always be generous in the use of water in the toilet bowl if depositing solids or using TP and never put anything that hasn't passed through a human body into it except for TP and water. Do that and only dump the tank when at least half full and you will be fine. There are many people with products or home brew mixtures that they believe in and most of them won't harm anything if used with enough water, but they are a major example of flushing your money down the toilet.
Your tank is a holding tank, it's not a septic system. Any normal household brand will work just fine. I prime mine with a few gallons of water and a squirt of dish soap.
 
Your tank is a holding tank, it's not a septic system. Any normal household brand will work just fine. I prime mine with a few gallons of water and a squirt of dish soap.
I think Kirk stated septic safe only because you want a paper that will break down easily in your “holding tank”. If someone dropped a tissue into the black tank, that will not break down easily
 
Your tank is a holding tank, it's not a septic system.
The term “septic action” does not exclusively happen in a septic system. While it is most commonly associated with the anaerobic bacterial processes inside a septic tank, the same biological processes can and does occur in other environments where wastewater or organic matter is present. If allowed to do so, that same process begins to take place in an RV black tank or any other place that human waste and water mix together and time is allowed. The functional digestion process typically starts within 24–48 hours for initial breakdown into a liquid.
 
The term “septic action” does not exclusively happen in a septic system. While it is most commonly associated with the anaerobic bacterial processes inside a septic tank, the same biological processes can and does occur in other environments where wastewater or organic matter is present. If allowed to do so, that same process begins to take place in an RV black tank or any other place that human waste and water mix together and time is allowed. The functional digestion process typically starts within 24–48 hours for initial breakdown into a liquid.
yes, i fully agree with you on the bacterial process taking effect, however, I postulate that IT DOESN'T ACTUALLY MATTER, from a personal perspective, having lent my rv to my daughters and had my tank loaded with tissues, tampons, rubber objects, cooking grease and other miscellaneous miscellany.. I have yet to have an issue with flushing and cleaning..
YMWV..
 
yes, i fully agree with you on the bacterial process taking effect, however, I postulate that IT DOESN'T ACTUALLY MATTER, from a personal perspective, having lent my rv to my daughters and had my tank loaded with tissues, tampons, rubber objects, cooking grease and other miscellaneous miscellany.. I have yet to have an issue with flushing and cleaning..
YMWV..
You are so lucky. Everyone I know who has been rv’ing has at one time ended up with blocked drain line. And that’s usually with only toilet paper in the tank with solids. And you say you had all those other things in there and never had an issue. I don’t know how you do it.
 
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You are so lucky. Everyone I know who has been rv’ing has at one time ended up with blocked drain line. And that’s usually with only toilet paper in the tank with solids. And you say you had all those other things in there and never had an issue. I don’t know how you do it.
lucky, perhaps. I do however fill my tank with fresh like Mark_K5LXP.
plenty of water to lubricate the solids.
 
You are so lucky. Everyone I know who has been rv’ing has at one time ended up with blocked drain line. And that’s usually with only toilet paper in the tank with solids. And you say you had all those other things in there and never had an issue. I don’t know how you do it.
I blocked my gray tank with coffee grounds. Happily dumping grounds for about 2 months with the drain open. Next time I filled it a coffee pile went into the pipe when I dumped and blocked it.

Thanks be to Him I wasn't flushing them.

Now nothing goes in the sink except dishwater.
 
I'm soundly in the camp that there's no decompositon taking place in a tank emptied every few days. Like Primerump, we've had company stay in the RV on holidays and such, and the drain hose actually thumps and jumps passing whatever it was they put in there. I get that adding anything peemptively amounts to flushing money away but a slug of borax and a glug of dawn in an empty tank amounts to pennies. Might help, might not but no downside. Can't help but wonder if it comes down to tank configuration. Not hard to imagine some shapes and sizes would drain better than others. Mostly conjecture I think, not unlike the 50% Rule for batteries, tire pressures and the best motor oil.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 

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