Expensive brake job

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Greylinghunter

New member
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Posts
4
Location
Pahrump, Nevada
I have a 2016 Salem csmt21rbs. My pull vehicle is a 2008 Ford F-350 with integrated braking system. Took the trailer in for a brake inspection before my next trip and $1700 later the RV service manager told me he had never seen brakes this bad. He also told me it appeared the braking system was engaged all of the time essentially cooking my trailer brakes. I have never heard of this. I have pulled three different trailers with my Ford and have not had this issue. Have always set the braking system per the owners manual.
Any thoughts?
 
Complete new wheel assemblies with brakes and everything are less than $100 each at etrailer.com.  You needed 4 at worse case scenario.  $1700 seems a bit high for a complete brake job on a trailer.  Just my opinion.
 
SpencerPJ said:
Complete new wheel assemblies with brakes and everything are less than $100 each at etrailer.com.  You needed 4 at worse case scenario.  $1700 seems a bit high for a complete brake job on a trailer.  Just my opinion.

I just looked up everything, drums, brakes and bearings for a complete and total replacement of everything and it came to $470.

I would have wanted to see the parts before paying that kind of money.
 
lynnmor said:
I just looked up everything, drums, brakes and bearings for a complete and total replacement of everything and it came to $470.

I would have wanted to see the parts before paying that kind of money.

I agree, but also to the original poster, glad you got your brakes fixed, and everything is right.  :))  Brakes are kinda important in the scheme of things.  Next time you feel you need work done, maybe call a mobile mechanic, I hear people get much better service and prices from them.
 
It does make you wonder if the RV service place was being honest.

I had an experience a few years ago with my 2011 Honda CRV.  I took it in for an oil change and the service representative said I needed to replace the rear brake pads.  I decided I would replace them myself as it's a pretty easy job.  I bought replacement pads and when I pulled the old ones, the pads were in excellent condition. I took the pads into the Honda dealer and complained and they apologized and reimbursed me for the cost of the pads.  They had also said I had a broken motor mount and I asked them to show me where It was broken. The service manager checked it and couldn't fine anything. I think they sometimes put pressure on their mechanics to "find" additional work.
 
Lowell said:
It does make you wonder if the RV service place was being honest.

I had an experience a few years ago with my 2011 Honda CRV.  I took it in for an oil change and the service representative said I needed to replace the rear brake pads.  I decided I would replace them myself as it's a pretty easy job.  I bought replacement pads and when I pulled the old ones, the pads were in excellent condition. I took the pads into the Honda dealer and complained and they apologized and reimbursed me for the cost of the pads.  They had also said I had a broken motor mount and I asked them to show me where It was broken. The service manager checked it and couldn't fine anything. I think they sometimes put pressure on their mechanics to "find" additional work.

I believe in a lot of shops mechanics work on wages plus commission.
 
Lowell said:
I think they sometimes put pressure on their mechanics to "find" additional work.

Most repair facilities give mechanics a 'cut' of additional services they sell the customer, ie commission.  It's such an unethical market it is disturbing. 

https://www.indeed.com/q-Mechanic-Hourly-Plus-Commission-jobs.html

 
A few years back I had my toad's oil changed at a Walmart.  After it was done one of the attendants wheeled out a nifty new computerized battery tester, connected it to my toad's 5 year old battery and said "You need a new battery - this is the worst I've ever seen - in fact it's only half a battery".

I said "That's OK, it's only starting half an engine" (1.6L Nissan) and declined his offer of a new one.

I replaced that "half a battery" three years later.
 
Complete new wheel assemblies with brakes and everything are less than $100 each at etrailer.com.  You needed 4 at worse case scenario.  $1700 seems a bit high for a complete brake job on a trailer.  Just my opinion.
I just looked up everything, drums, brakes and bearings for a complete and total replacement of everything and it came to $470.

Totally agree, but at RV shop prices he would have paid 2x what etrailer.com charges, plus $100-$125 per hour for labor. With tax, I can see that getting darn close to $1700, i.e. $900 for parts and 6-7 hours of labor (billable shop time, not what you can do in your driveway).  If you go to the RV dealer shop for every repair and don't shop around, you have to expect to pay the long price..
 
When I moved to Florida six years ago and hung up the keys I had to buy a car. I got a 1994 Mercury. Cost me $1500. A few weeks later I get a letter from Ford telling me my car had been recalled. I thought that was kinda suspicious but I went to the local Ford dealer to get the work done. They had to replace a cruise control harness. I was in the shop for an hour and they came and got me to show me the list of repaired they determined I needed for the car. The bill was like $1200. I laughed and said goodbye. None of the things on the list were legitimate. All things like bushings and shocks. The cable they replaced was about six inches long and must have taken him thirty seconds to change it. So I got spend an hour in their waiting room while they inspected my car, without my permission. Just looking to scare me into buying stuff I didn't need. Never did replace any of that stuff and drove it two more years. The very last Ford I will ever buy.
 
Greylinghunter...I suggest you get an IR gun and shoot your brakes and tires every time you stop. 

You'll soon develop a feel for what temperatures you should be seeing.

If you have a dragging brake it will soon show up. 

Your tires should all be the the same temperature range....one that is 10 degrees higher than the other tires indicates that tire has lowpressure.
 
I carry a thermal gun and check hubs and tires at each stop, BUT, expect tire temps on the sun side to be a little higher, maybe even the 10 degrees mentioned.
 
Check to make sure your trailer emergency brake lanyard is not binding and activating your brakes. Maybe the pin does not fully disengage the actuator.
 
keymastr said:
Check to make sure your trailer emergency brake lanyard is not binding and activating your brakes. Maybe the pin does not fully disengage the actuator.
Either the switch is engaged or not engage no in between.  If the pin is out, you'd know it right away. The trailer brakes would be engaged. The pin either makes or breaks the circuit.
 
Yeah that's right Gary! And labor is billed by the book and I'm guessing if they come under a bit we never know about it! I have a bit of a spine issue going on so I had to have a few things done at the dealer that weren't warranty and I got beat up on the labor, I squawked quite a bit to the owner, customer loyalty, senior discount, military discount, whatever I could throw at them and it saved me close to $300 bucks.
 
For a comparison I recently had all my pads and rotors replaced on my Raptor, and I run high dollar ceramic pads, oil changed, and tires rotated & balanced for $1,400. This was by a mechanic I absolutely trust and they know I have basic automotive knowledge and let me walk into the garage at anytime to see the work.  $1,700 seems a little HIGH.
 
What happened to the days when you'd walk in to a shop, said hello to the mechanic you knew for years, got your car repaired and walked out with almost as much cash as you came in with.  I've never been a fan of leasing, but considering the cost of brakes, batteries, tires, and the other items that need periodic replacement along with the ever increasing cost of labor a fixed monthly payment may be the way to go. 
 
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