etcetera
Member
2012 F550 Super Duty V10 gas 6.8L engine, 53,000 miles, 32-passenger. Planning to convert.
F550 Super Duty Shuttle Bus
- Thread starter etcetera
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
IBTripping
Well-known member
Welcome to the Forum. You've got a nice project ahead of you. I live in Richmond, VA during the winter. Please keep us updated on your progress.
40 years ago I converted a step van (like a UPS delivery truck) into an RV. It was a really fun project. It had been a milk truck with excellent insulation so it was a true 4 season RV. With all those big windows you'll have a better view than any RV could ever have. Might be a problem keeping it cool in the summer though 
etcetera
Member
Still working out the design. I probably will not accomplish much this winter other than installing a bed and some kind of temporary heater in it. I have 21' of internal space to play with.
I have a queen bed, want a full size couch in it, a computer desk, a stove. Do not need a dinette. Maybe a closet to nang shirts in if I have room left over. A shower obviously. I need to find an online program that will let me design things. Move them around, like CAD. At least in 2D.
I am 6'3" and barely fit into it so I am keeping the floor the way it is, I have about 2" of clearance. Pergo type floor would be nicer but the floor is nice as it is, it's spartan, just wash it with water. I like that. I hate carpets most RVs come with.
I basically don't even know where to start. I am very new at this. youtube is my friend and I am trying to process the very basics. I see some very nice builds, this is way out of my league at this point. I am basically at the point where I don't know how you keep all the stuff bolted down to prevent it from moving around while driving. Do I bolt things to the floor? Or do I need to install some wooden frame and then bolt things to it?
I am going to remove all the seats this weekend.
The things I do want to accomplish this winter are:
* Install a secondary gas tank, around 50 gallons. The default one is 40 gallon as far as I know and at 6-8MPG you get with V10.. doesn't last very long.
I would love some kind of aftermarket gas gauge, nice and big and a switch to switch from one tank to another.
Put curtains up, maybe something held by magnets.
Just remember, what ever you think this conversion is going to cost, triple it. I have seen some ytube videos where people have spent a hundred thousand on smaller projects.
If this truly is the way you want to go, before you do anything, sit down and make a plan starting with all those windows. Do you want them all? If so they are going to interfere with hanging cabinets and partition walls. Next make a detailed drawing of what you envision the interior looking like when finished. Gather material now! Water lines, electrical wire, fixtures, and lumber all are getting in short supply, so starting now will allow you to have a head start.
Remember RVs are built inside out, since you have the outside already done your going to have wiring and plumbing done almost first.
If this truly is the way you want to go, before you do anything, sit down and make a plan starting with all those windows. Do you want them all? If so they are going to interfere with hanging cabinets and partition walls. Next make a detailed drawing of what you envision the interior looking like when finished. Gather material now! Water lines, electrical wire, fixtures, and lumber all are getting in short supply, so starting now will allow you to have a head start.
Remember RVs are built inside out, since you have the outside already done your going to have wiring and plumbing done almost first.
Alontheway
Well-known member
I would sell it and just buy an RV that is already an RV. You will spend huge time and huge huge money on this. It is all window. Are you going to leave all windows or re-do the walls? windows = heat loss.
I have converteed a moving van. Never again. Though I did get exactly what I wanted it was not worth it and cost huge compared to just buying an RV
I have converteed a moving van. Never again. Though I did get exactly what I wanted it was not worth it and cost huge compared to just buying an RV
Kirk
Well-known member
Well, fancy meeting you here!
The first thing that you need to consider is where you will place your potable water, gray water, and black water tanks. Once you know where you have room to mount those you will also be able to figure out how large the tanks can be. I would start by spending time under the bus looking at the frame rails and such to figure out if there is a way that the tanks could be mounted there. Since water is about 8# per gallon, large tanks can be very heavy when full so they need solid support and mounting them low will help with handling by lowering the center of gravity. Once you find a place to locate the tanks you need to figure out where the plumbing for the drains into and from the tanks can go. All of that is very important to do before you start putting things into the interior. As you start to design the interior you need to keep in mind where the water lines will go. It is very common to put the fresh water tank under the bed as that keeps it inside out of the cold and the pump can be mounted next to it with easy access. At some point you need to add in the water heater to the mix, the sinks, and the shower. The toilet is usually mounted directly above the black tank so that waste can drop directly into it and eliminate the plumbing between. It will need a fresh water supply. When I helped a friend convert an old school bus years ago, those were the things we addressed first. Not far behind should be a location for an ASME propane tank which you could get from Amazon. If you keep the water heater, furnace, and stove in close proximity it will make the propane lines much shorter and more easily hidden.
My conversion was more like a hard sided weekender popup camper than an RV. It consisted of beds, a bathroom with a porta-potty, and appliances I found at a swap meet. That was relatively easy with no plumbing, wiring, and only a few holes in the floor where racks had been mounted. Being a stupid kid I mounted a propane tank on the extended back bumper turning it into a bomb if anyone rear-ended me. It already had a roof 12/120volt A/C but I used the unvented oven on the stove for heat which was a carbon monoxide factory. I hope you do better than I did.
You do realize when you remove the seats you'll have hundred of holes in the floor? It looks like a fiberglass shell so you can't modify it or attach much to it. It sits pretty low to the ground so you can't have tanks hanging down in harm's way. If you need plumbing you may not be realistic about how much work and money is involved. If it is even possible
You do realize when you remove the seats you'll have hundred of holes in the floor? It looks like a fiberglass shell so you can't modify it or attach much to it. It sits pretty low to the ground so you can't have tanks hanging down in harm's way. If you need plumbing you may not be realistic about how much work and money is involved. If it is even possible
Great Horned Owl
Well-known member
nanoCAD is a completely free, (almost) clone of AutoCAD. If you are an AutoCAD user, you will be able to start in using it almost immediately. There are a few actions with different syntax, or that get done is a slightly different way, but no significant differences in use.
There is a 3D version, that is not free.
I don't know if the file structures are compatible. Some day, I should get around to checking that out.
Joel
There is a 3D version, that is not free.
I don't know if the file structures are compatible. Some day, I should get around to checking that out.
Joel
etcetera
Member
Well, fancy meeting you here!
The first thing that you need to consider is where you will place your potable water, gray water, and black water tanks. Once you know where you have room to mount those you will also be able to figure out how large the tanks can be. I would start by spending time under the bus looking at the frame rails and such to figure out if there is a way that the tanks could be mounted there. Since water is about 8# per gallon, large tanks can be very heavy when full so they need solid support and mounting them low will help with handling by lowering the center of gravity. Once you find a place to locate the tanks you need to figure out where the plumbing for the drains into and from the tanks can go. All of that is very important to do before you start putting things into the interior. As you start to design the interior you need to keep in mind where the water lines will go. It is very common to put the fresh water tank under the bed as that keeps it inside out of the cold and the pump can be mounted next to it with easy access. At some point you need to add in the water heater to the mix, the sinks, and the shower. The toilet is usually mounted directly above the black tank so that waste can drop directly into it and eliminate the plumbing between. It will need a fresh water supply. When I helped a friend convert an old school bus years ago, those were the things we addressed first. Not far behind should be a location for an ASME propane tank which you could get from Amazon. If you keep the water heater, furnace, and stove in close proximity it will make the propane lines much shorter and more easily hidden.
This is very helpful.
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
Alternatives on the propane tank would be to check with the couple of major RV salvage yards and see if what they have you might be able to use. You would have to pick it up from them, a used tank could not be shipped as it is hazardous material, but it might be worth looking into.
As Kirk noted you have to work out the locations and mountings of all the tanks underneath first. Structure underneath may dictate where some things inside go.
Don't forget things like house batteries, and their mountings. If you are doing solar panels and lithium batteries the situation changes alot as Lithium needs to be inside to protect them in cold weather.
Go to 8020.net and spend HOURS there learning what is available and how to use it. If you are not a good cabinet maker or don't have access to a great woodworking shop, cabinets can be framed with 8020 and then skinned with thin plywood and veneers and counter top materials. You want it strong and lightweight. I watched a couple of videos where a guy used 8020 to build the interior structure, bed framing, etc inside a Sprinter van. It looked nice when he was done.
This will be an expensive proposition, as 8020 is not cheap, nor is drawer glides, drawer retaining latches, cabinet hardware, water pump, toilet, power panels, electrical wiring, etc. It all adds up.
Charles
As Kirk noted you have to work out the locations and mountings of all the tanks underneath first. Structure underneath may dictate where some things inside go.
Don't forget things like house batteries, and their mountings. If you are doing solar panels and lithium batteries the situation changes alot as Lithium needs to be inside to protect them in cold weather.
Go to 8020.net and spend HOURS there learning what is available and how to use it. If you are not a good cabinet maker or don't have access to a great woodworking shop, cabinets can be framed with 8020 and then skinned with thin plywood and veneers and counter top materials. You want it strong and lightweight. I watched a couple of videos where a guy used 8020 to build the interior structure, bed framing, etc inside a Sprinter van. It looked nice when he was done.
This will be an expensive proposition, as 8020 is not cheap, nor is drawer glides, drawer retaining latches, cabinet hardware, water pump, toilet, power panels, electrical wiring, etc. It all adds up.
Charles
etcetera
Member
I finally tore out all the seats, am thinking what to install next.
I wonder if it's worth messing with the tanks, maybe install an outdoor type shower for the sake of simplicity, I've seen such a configuration and liked it. That plus compost. Maybe leave the option of installing tanks later.
What's essential for me is the electric system - solar and the battery bank. What's a good resource to install the electric system? I want a computer desk. Have a few computer monitors and need to figure out a way to secure them so they don't fall off the desk.
That plus a propane tank and a stove to cook on and also run a heater. I've had that combo before, it heats well but such heaters are thirsty. I have 2 40-lbs propane tanks.
I have about 21 feet of usable space. I wanted a couch but not sure about it due to space and weight, maybe just a nice armchair or a couple. The space is limited, I have to figure what's absolutely essential, what's nice and what I don't really need. I was originally going to put a queen bed but realized a twin is just fine.
I am trying to keep it as light as possible. That's why I have no plans to install a ceiling or walls and if I install any cabinets, they will be few and light. Not sure if I will install a new floor, this one is pretty durable and spartan and I hope to install things in such a way that they will cover the holes in the floor.
What I really need is a clothes hanger, I like storing my clothing that way versus drawers. I am thinking making the bedroom in the rear. With the water tank underneath the bed. The electric system seems quintessential to the entire operation to generate power for the computer, pump to pump the water, etc.
I wonder if it's worth messing with the tanks, maybe install an outdoor type shower for the sake of simplicity, I've seen such a configuration and liked it. That plus compost. Maybe leave the option of installing tanks later.
What's essential for me is the electric system - solar and the battery bank. What's a good resource to install the electric system? I want a computer desk. Have a few computer monitors and need to figure out a way to secure them so they don't fall off the desk.
That plus a propane tank and a stove to cook on and also run a heater. I've had that combo before, it heats well but such heaters are thirsty. I have 2 40-lbs propane tanks.
I have about 21 feet of usable space. I wanted a couch but not sure about it due to space and weight, maybe just a nice armchair or a couple. The space is limited, I have to figure what's absolutely essential, what's nice and what I don't really need. I was originally going to put a queen bed but realized a twin is just fine.
I am trying to keep it as light as possible. That's why I have no plans to install a ceiling or walls and if I install any cabinets, they will be few and light. Not sure if I will install a new floor, this one is pretty durable and spartan and I hope to install things in such a way that they will cover the holes in the floor.
What I really need is a clothes hanger, I like storing my clothing that way versus drawers. I am thinking making the bedroom in the rear. With the water tank underneath the bed. The electric system seems quintessential to the entire operation to generate power for the computer, pump to pump the water, etc.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The components for electrical (12v & 120v) are all off-the-shelf and readily available. You just need to figure out what you want and where to put it. If you plan to be off-grid often, properly sizing the battery bank & solar panels is crucial to success, and that means accurately estimating daily consumption. You will want an inverter for 120v stuff, and probably at least a small generator for those times when solar wasn't sufficient.
Will there be air conditioning? I see that big ceiling unit in the back - will it remain and how is it powered?
Will there be air conditioning? I see that big ceiling unit in the back - will it remain and how is it powered?
etcetera
Member
That's the AC unit in the rear, need to test it better, possibly recharge it.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
How is it powered? Generator? Of the engine? I'm not familiar with how that works on these mini-buses.
Frizlefrak
Well-known member
I'm curious why the desire to keep it super light. It's an F-550 chassis and pretty robust. Keeping extraneous weight out is always a good idea, but with this chassis, I'd build it to be functional and comfortable, in that order.I am trying to keep it as light as possible. That's why I have no plans to install a ceiling or walls and if I install any cabinets, they will be few and light.
I salute you for taking this on. It actually looks like a lot of fun. My only concern with using this chassis would be that it has low ground clearance, as it's purposefully built with ease of ingress and egress in mind. That could limit its ability to get in and out of some places.
Keep us posted on the progress!!
etcetera
Member
I ran into this issue, my emergency hatch is leaking pretty bad. I climbed on the roof and this is what I saw. Looks like there is a huge dent, like something fell on it. Maybe a tree? The roof looks warped, both in front of the hatch and to the rear and the hatch is in a pool of water. It shouldn't be like that.
Do you think a tree fell on it? Or this by design? Or the roof warping due to heat?
the hatch was closed and apparently not leaking when I got it, but I opened it and could never close it back correctly.
Anyway, I want to delete the whole hatch, maybe install solar in its place.
For now, I want to seal it with something so it doesn't leak because when it rains, there is a shower inside.
Do you think a tree fell on it? Or this by design? Or the roof warping due to heat?
the hatch was closed and apparently not leaking when I got it, but I opened it and could never close it back correctly.
Anyway, I want to delete the whole hatch, maybe install solar in its place.
For now, I want to seal it with something so it doesn't leak because when it rains, there is a shower inside.
etcetera
Member
I appreciate the support and the encouragement. I am at the overwhelmed stage right now. I have the dilemma of how to approach this. I am going to rent a workshop type garage and work on it for the next 6 months, hopefully it should be done by the next summer. I am pretty slow due to having full time work commitment.
I am also thinking about the end result and what I want to see accomplished. I am more of a utilitarian and functional type person versus aesthetics. I understand I can pour 50K in it easily but I am trying to do it in stages. Probably work on the solar/battery bank/electrical wiring first as it seems to be the most difficult aspect of it.
