Failure to start. Looking for suggestions.

[dgs331]

I have a 1994 Fleetwood Pace Arrow that will not start. I replaced the starter but it still won’t start. I get a single click under the hood when using the ignition. When I get under the RV and jump the starter directly, I get rapid clicking of the solenoid but the starter does not turn the engine over. I am getting 12.4 volts to the starter.

I wonder if anyone has experienced something like this or has a suggestion as to what to try next. I did replace the starter relay under the hood. I cleaned the battery terminals and the ground wire where it attaches to the frame.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Kevin Means]

Welcome to the RVForum dgs331. Before the starter can start the engine, the Bendix has to extend to engage the flywheel. Is that happening?

Kev

 

[dgs331]

I hear loud, rapid clicking of the bendix when I jump the starter. It does not seem to be doing anything but that.

 

[dgs331]

The starter does not spin. Just the loud clicking noise. It's a rebuilt starter. The old starter didn't even click.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

It could be mechanical but I'd verify electrical first. The clicking could be a result of a bad battery, or bad connection between the battery and starter, or battery and ground. You can test for it but first pass would be to try and jump it with a strong battery. Then just a visual inspection or even just loosening and re-tightening the connections. This would include the engine block to frame ground cable which is often neglected. Cables can become compromised over time inside the insulation, so another test you could do is see if the starter works with a pair of heavy duty jumper cables from the battery to the starter. Can't rule out a bad rebuilt starter but do these tests first.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[dgs331]

I took the batter out and had it tested. It's good. I added my car with jumper cables. No difference. I have not checked the engine to frame ground. I will do that next. Thanks.

 

[dgs331]

It could be mechanical but I'd verify electrical first. The clicking could be a result of a bad battery, or bad connection between the battery and starter, or battery and ground. You can test for it but first pass would be to try and jump it with a strong battery. Then just a visual inspection or even just loosening and re-tightening the connections. This would include the engine block to frame ground cable which is often neglected. Cables can become compromised over time inside the insulation, so another test you could do is see if the starter works with a pair of heavy duty jumper cables from the battery to the starter. Can't rule out a bad rebuilt starter but do these tests first.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

I took the batter out and had it tested. It's good. I added my car with jumper cables. No difference. I have not checked the engine to frame ground. I will do that next. Thanks.

 

[Kirk]

I hear loud, rapid clicking of the bendix when I jump the starter. It does not seem to be doing anything but that.

To me, that sounds like the Bendix is not engaging with the flywheel teeth but slipping for some reason. Worst case, the problem could be broken teeth on the flywheel.

 

[dgs331]

To me, that sounds like the Bendix is not engaging with the flywheel teeth but slipping for some reason. Worst case, the problem could be broken teeth on the flywheel.

I don't hear the starter spinning at all. Just the clicking.

 

[DonTom]

I am getting 12.4 volts to the starter.

Can you measure the voltage right on the starter as you try to start? Work back from there. Will be a two-person job.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[dgs331]

Can you measure the voltage right on the starter as you try to start? Work back from there. Will be a two-person job.

-Don- Auburn, CA

I will have to find a friend that can help.

 

[Arch Hoagland]

Did you bench test the starter before you installed it? If so did it spin?

When was the last time the engine was running? Maybe it is seized up.

 

[dgs331]

Did you bench test the starter before you installed it? If so did it spin?

When was the last time the engine was running? Maybe it is seized up.

Sadly no. The engine only has 28,000 miles and I'm sure it isn't frozen.

 

[DonTom]

I don't hear the starter spinning at all. Just the clicking.

A sign of low voltage or excessive current that results in low voltage. The clicking is caused by the relay dropping out from the voltage drop on its coil. As soon as it drops out, it gets the full voltage again and re-engages and drops out again. So you hear click-click-click-click.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[dgs331]

A sign of low voltage or excessive current that results in low voltage. The clicking is caused by the relay dropping out from the voltage drop on its coil. As soon as it drops out, it gets the full voltage again and re-engages and drops out again. So you hear click-click-click-click.

-Don- Auburn, CA

That makes sense. If the battery is fully charged and even has my car hooked up with jumper cables, what could cause the low voltage? Could it be a ground problem as others have suggested? I checked the battery to frame ground and cleaned it. I have not checked the block to frame ground.

 

[TheBar]

Many auto parts stores can test your starter for free. Hopefully the place you bought it from can do it.

My RV is a Ford 3 years newer. Fords and I believe some Dodges of that era have a problematic starter relay. Mine is hidden up between the radiator and grill under the radiator shroud. Yours will likely be somewhere else since it is a Class A. Follow the heavy battery cables between the battery and the starter to find it.

Putting it where rain gets it wet causes two push on terminals to frequently get corroded. It will only click until the terminals are pulled off, cleaned, and pushed back on.

 

[dgs331]

Many auto parts stores can test your starter for free. Hopefully the place you bought it from can do it.

My RV is a Ford 3 years newer. Fords and I believe some Dodges of that era have a problematic starter relay. Mine is hidden up between the radiator and grill under the radiator shroud. Yours will likely be somewhere else since it is a Class A. Follow the heavy battery cables between the battery and the starter to find it.

Putting it where rain gets it wet causes two push on terminals to frequently get corroded. It will only click until the terminals are pulled off, cleaned, and pushed back on.

I did replace the relay. It had no effect.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

'Excessive current' can be one cause of chattering, which means the starter isn't spinning because either it, or the engine is stuck. Trying the starter with a set of directly connected jumper cables between the starter and battery eliminates chassis wiring and ground issues. If it doesn't spin that way pulling the starter and testing it separately is probably the next step.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[DonTom]

That makes sense. If the battery is fully charged and even has my car hooked up with jumper cables, what could cause the low voltage? Could it be a ground problem as others have suggested? I checked the battery to frame ground and cleaned it. I have not checked the block to frame ground.

I have seen the battery to engine neg cable cause such weird problems. Make sure there is no voltage drop between the battery negative and the engine when you try to start. I have also seen this cause problems when running the A/C and other high current stuff.

The thick engine ground/negative cable can look great from the outside and be all corroded inside. And with a 30-year-old cable--I would say this is somewhat likely.

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[bigbAZ]

Could it be a ground problem as others have suggested? I checked the battery to frame ground and cleaned it. I have not checked the block to frame ground.

It could be either ground or positive. One place that can be hidden is the positive cable that drops down to the starter, it can get pretty corroded where it connects to the terminal end and if it's insulated you won't see it. I had this on a Ford, the cable was 4/0 and looked fine on the outside but when cutting into it you could see it was all green and corroded for several inches back into the insulation. I had to buy the whole OEM cable assembly to fix that one, dual battery diesel.