Fill Port On Onboard Propane Leaking

ButchW1

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2021
Posts
804
Location
La Mirada, CA
I have a leak at the threads of my fill port on the onboard propane tank on my class A... Can I just back out the fitting and wrap it with propane Teflon Tape? Or is there a gasket/o-ring of some sort?... Is it a standard right hand thread or a left?.. Thanks for any help..
Butch

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Take it to a propane supplier and get it fixed correctly. There's a float actuated shut off valve (Overfill Prevention Device/OPD) attached to the fill valve on the inside of the tank that cuts the flow when the tank liquid level reaches 80% of the water capacity. Not something you want to mess with...
 
And if you unscrew the fitting you'll open a hole directly into the interior of the pressurized propane tank. Not fun. Take it to a propane distributor who knows how to deal with a propane tank.
 
Thanks guys... I'll have to find a local distributor that can handle it attached to the MH... I really don't know were to take it, but the Google search is on... Would a RV repair guy be able to fix, or just the propane guy?
Butch
 
Would a RV repair guy be able to fix, or just the propane guy?
You may find one who does, but most will not. In most, if not all states there are licenses and certifications required to work with propane tanks, specifically within the LP-Gas industry. Check with a propane distributor as many of them have trained people who do that kind of work.
 
You may find one who does, but most will not. In most, if not all states there are licenses and certifications required to work with propane tanks, specifically within the LP-Gas industry. Check with a propane distributor as many of them have trained people who do that kind of work.
As Kirk said, most states require certifications for both refilling and servicing ASME tanks and DOT cylinders. The refiller certification course (CEPT/PEP) isn't that difficult, but all refillers are required to have it. I'm certified in NY, although I think my GA and FL certifications may have expired since I haven't been there in a couple of years. Servicing the tanks and cylinders requires a higher level of CEPT/PEP training, and not many RV dealer service shops or mobile RV repair business have the necessary trained personnel. As said, contact a propane distributor for advice on getting the work done.
 
Call a propane supplier. They sell and rent tanks and plumb them to your house. Explain your situation and I’m certain they can take car of you. They may even be willing to come to you (but it would likely save you a bit if they can work it at their shop).
They’ll also be able to top up your tank when they’re done.
 
I will do as you guys suggest.. or many household tank installers in the LA area… Most everyone has natural gas… No place was open yesterday(Sunday), and it’s early here now… I’ll start calling soon…
Butch
 
Curious problem, gotta wonder what happened to it. If it's more than 12 years old they might want to recertify it. Adding in repair and removal cost I wonder if repair by replacement would be more cost effective.

Something I would inquire is if that fill port is the current/commom one. I don't know the nomenclature but every time I get my 20 year old tank filled they have to use an adapter. If I were paying for a repair I'd see if it could be brought up to current spec (if refit is cost effective).

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Curious problem, gotta wonder what happened to it. If it's more than 12 years old they might want to recertify it. Adding in repair and removal cost I wonder if repair by replacement would be more cost effective.

Something I would inquire is if that fill port is the current/commom one. I don't know the nomenclature but every time I get my 20 year old tank filled they have to use an adapter. If I were paying for a repair I'd see if it could be brought up to current spec (if refit is cost effective).

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
My rig is 13yrs old... 2012 model... I've never had a problem filling it... No adapter needed... I don't think the onboard tanks need to ever be re-certified... As for the cause of the leak... Maybe just all of those years of the heavy hose and nozzle hanging on it during refills?... Really no idea on my part... I'll ask when I get it repaired...
Butch
 
Wow, good catch! Were you smelling it that made you check for a leak?
Yea... I was just parking my TOAD (Suzuki Samurai) next to it... I just got the Zuks transmission replaced, and bent over to check a few things on the car which was next the the MH's propane tank, and got a whiff of the smell... I got out an old Windex bottle with soapy water in it, and started squirting around all of the fittings and hoses... That's when I found the leak... I haven't used the MH in a couple of months, so didn't notice the leak before.... I checked the propane gauge and it read empty... I'm pretty sure it was at least 1/2 full the last time I used it... I need to get this fixed soon, because I have a week camping trip coming up in 3-4 weeks that I don't want to miss and can't postpone...
Butch
 
ASME LP tanks do not require any inspection after it leave the manufacturing facility. Rust pitting is the only thing that removes a tank from service.
I had my propane supplier for my house replace my MH fill valve. He had me supply the new valve and he performed the replacement. I think a new valve was $60 10 years ago.

I also had to empty the tank of propane and pressure. He said to do that by parking the MH away from buildings and open the bleeder valve, that took 2 days to empty ½ tank of propane.
He did not purge the tank after replacing the valve, saying LP is heavier than air so no air will enter the open tank while the valve is replaced. After 10 years that has proven to be true.
If I were in your situation I'd empty the tank, remove the valve-gently to avoid damaging anything, then use LP sealing tape on thoroughly-cleaned threads. Do not use white tape, it's not designed to withstand exposure to LP.
I seem to remember right-hand threads on the valve. I'd spray the threaded connection with a penatrant now to help with removal.
 
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ASME LP tanks do not require any inspection after it leave the manufacturing facility. Rust pitting is the only thing that removes a tank from service.
I had my propane supplier for my house replace my MH fill valve. He had me supply the new valve and he performed the replacement. I think a new valve was $60 10 years ago.

I also had to empty the tank of propane and pressure. He said to do that by parking the MH away from buildings and open the bleeder valve, that took 2 days to empty ½ tank of propane.
He did not purge the tank after replacing the valve, saying LP is heavier than air so no air will enter the open tank while the valve is replaced. After 10 years that has proven to be true.
If I were in your situation I'd empty the tank, remove the valve-gently to avoid damaging anything, then use LP sealing tape on thoroughly-cleaned threads. Do not use white tape, it's not designed to withstand exposure to LP.
I seem to remember right-hand threads on the valve. I'd spray the threaded connection with a penatrant now to help with removal.
I finally, after a lot of calls and inquiring, found a place that will do the work... They, too told me to bleed off the remaining propane.. The tech is supposed to cal me this AM and set up an appointment... I couldn't believe it was so difficult to find someone to do the work... LA/OC CA has a lot of MH s with propane tanks...
Butch
 
I don’t know why this one was leaking, but it is.. The repair shop charges $85 hr and the new valve is $54, so I’ll just put a new one in ‘cause he’s already there…
Butch
 
Ok, the fix… But 1st of all I want to give a shout out to Globe Propane in Long Beach CA… After looking for a day to find someone that could repair this leak, I stumbled on to Globe..Right off, they connected me with their mechanic/tech, Andrew… He was very busy but text and called me many times, trying to set up an appointment..We settled on today at 10 AM…. I got there a little early, and he jumped right on it.. He said the valve looked ok and wanted to try tightening it up, before replacing it… He said he had never seen one that loose, and couldn’t figure how it happened.. The valve was good, and he checked all of the other fittings, hoses and equipment.. All it needed was tightening.. He only charged me for the propane to fill up my tank… No labor charge or anything else.. Great customer service.. I wish they were closer,so I could buy all of my propane from them.. They deserve the business…
So, just loose valve.. Thank you Andrew and Globe…
Butch
 

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