Finding Manuals and Fixing 12V Power on a 1988 Corsair Medallion

[Playmusic]

Hey Guys/Gals. My name is Tim and I'm hailing from Vancouver Island Canada.
I'm new to the rv life after a family crisis so it's now my home but I haven't got a clue what I'm doing lol.
Basically I'm trying to find out where to go so I can get the coach manual for my 1988 ford econoline corsair maddalion rv. everything seems to work but I'm seriously afraid of propane and don't wanna blow myself up, so having a manual would most certainly help going forward.
If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be so greatfully appreciated.
Cheers from the North everyone I hope your all having a wonderful new year
Thanks
Tim

 

[OldWEB]

Famous guitars? Could be a Fender!

But finding a rv manual would be next to impossible... and it would be very generic and of little use. IMO
Look for the Make and Model of each appliance and download the manuals for the best info, save in a file/binder. If needed, hire a propane specialist to check for leaks and also install a NEW propane and carbon monoxide detector... they are sensitive.

Stay warm!!

 

[8Muddypaws]

Good advice so far.

When we got our first motor home I was similarly overwhelmed. You’ll get over it in time but it will be a lot of work and/or money.

Manuals on the chassis/engine/transmission etc. should be easy to find online or on Amazon.

 

[Rene T]

I would find someone who can go over everything with you. Maybe find a guy who works in the service dept of a RV dealership and pay him $50.00 and a case of his favorite beer.

 

[Jackiemac]

I would find someone who can go over everything with you. Maybe find a guy who works in the service dept of a RV dealership and pay him $50.00 and a case of his favorite beer.

Or even someone in an RV Park if you are in one.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The good news is that the propane appliances in an RV are pretty much idiot-proof as far as safety is concerned. The water heater and furnace will automatically shut the propane flow off if a proper flame cannot be verified. But the stove is yours to mind, so be very careful to shut the gas valves fully off. And make sure your propane (LPG) gas detector is working. The sensor can get contaminated or damaged, so I recommend replacing the detector if it's more than about 5 years old.

 

[Playmusic]

Famous guitars? Could be a Fender!

But finding a rv manual would be next to impossible... and it would be very generic and of little use. IMO
Look for the Make and Model of each appliance and download the manuals for the best info, save in a file/binder. If needed, hire a propane specialist to check for leaks and also install a NEW propane and carbon monoxide detector... they are sensitive.

Stay warm!!

Good Morning Jackie...
Thanks for the reply, you're certainly right about finding a coach manual it's proving to be a lot harder then I thought it would be. I think your idea of hiring someone to have a look is a great idea , I'll call around today. Not sure this life is going to work for me even temp, but under the circumstances it's what it is lol..
Thanks for your reply...
Tim

 

[Playmusic]

Good advice so far.

When we got our first motor home I was similarly overwhelmed. You’ll get over it in time but it will be a lot of work and/or money.

Manuals on the chassis/engine/transmission etc. should be easy to find online or on Amazon.

Good Morning and thank you for the reply...
I'd have more luck finding my ass in a snow storm lol then finding a coach manual so you guys are right, I'm going to have to just find someone in this small Island town to just swing on over and teach me the basics. This town is world famous so there are a ton of Rv folks around all year long. Thank God where I am it's not cold and never gets under the zero temp so I've got that going for me lol.
Thanks again everyone it's greatly appreciated.
Tim...

 

[Playmusic]

The good news is that the propane appliances in an RV are pretty much idiot-proof as far as safety is concerned. The water heater and furnace will automatically shut the propane flow off if a proper flame cannot be verified. But the stove is yours to mind, so be very careful to shut the gas valves fully off. And make sure your propane (LPG) gas detector is working. The sensor can get contaminated or damaged, so I recommend replacing the detector if it's more than about 5 years old.

Good Morning and thanks Gary, I'll be taking your advice for sure. Not sure what's happening now but this morning I woke to the fridge being off as well as my water pump. I know the battery in the engine compartment isn't holding charge so I'm wondering if that battery would have something to do with the fridge and water pump dead in the water ? I'll check the fuses once daylight arrives and then charge the engine battery to see if that is somehow connected to my issue.
Hope you have a great day my friend and thanks again muchly appreciated.
Tim

 

[Playmusic]

Good Morning Jackie...
Thanks for the reply, you're certainly right about finding a coach manual it's proving to be a lot harder then I thought it would be. I think your idea of hiring someone to have a look is a great idea , I'll call around today. Not sure this life is going to work for me even temp, but under the circumstances it's what it is lol..
Thanks for your reply...
Tim

It's actually a 1970 Yamaki acoustic that was played many times by John Denver for which I currently own , it's my pride and joy..

 

[Jackiemac]

If you're not hooked up to an electricity supply you will be discharging the battery....

Are you in an RV Park?

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Not sure what's happening now but this morning I woke to the fridge being off as well as my water pump. I know the battery in the engine compartment isn't holding charge so I'm wondering if that battery would have something to do with the fridge and water pump dead in the water ? I'll check the fuses once daylight arrives and then charge the engine battery to see if that is somehow connected to my issue.

It most assuredly does. The water pump is a a 12v motor and the fridge requires steady 12v power for it's control circuit board, which operates the fridge gas valve and thermostat. The RV components that need 12v are typically rated to work as low as 10.5v, but often they get flaky around 11.0v.

Your van RV should have two 12v batteries, one to start the engine and operate the automotive stuff and a second auxiliary or "house" battery to supply the lighting and appliances. If both 12v systems are connected to the same battery, you will always be at risk of losing 12v power simply because there isn't much available even when the single battery is new.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Your first order of business manual wise, is to locate the make and model number of each appliance or device you have. The fridge will either have a decal inside of it or possibly on the back side accessible thru a panel or removable louvers on the outside. The stove will have a decal or placard that probably requires the top to be removed to access the area where the burners are. The water heater will have a placard or decal on the outside where you open the access door to light a pilot. The furnace will be the most difficult to locate a placard for.

An RV this old will be difficult to even locate manuals for some of the equipment as there were a number of off brand appliances that have long ago disappeared and may have never had manuals published. Its somewhat of an Easter egg hunt.

The following is a good place to start looking for manuals once you have compiled your list.

Technical Service Manuals – PDX RV

Bryant R.V. Services

Index of /pdf (scroll down to Atwood and Suburban. This is basically a home water heater web site but have included some RV water heaters also.)

Service Manuals - My RV Works

https://rvrepairguru.com/rv-manuals/

Free RV Manuals

RV Owners Manuals

Component Manuals – Forest River Inc. (even if not a Forest River, they may have the manual you need)

Component Manuals - Prime Time RV

https://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/manual-downloads/

Fridge Defend | ARP Control | RV Safety | Dometic | Norcold | RV Fire

Just so you know, this is what is known in the RV world as a Class C motorhome. Here is a pic of an '88 Corsair Medallion (though it may be a different length than yours) which I am posting for others to reference when they read this thread.

Charles

 

[Playmusic]

If you're not hooked up to an electricity supply you will be discharging the battery....

Are you in an RV Park?

Hey Jackie.. Yeah I'm in an Rv campground but just had a tech swing by and after testing, he's determined that my power converter has packed it in...At least now I know which direction to head in lol..
Thanks again
Tim

 

[JudyJB]

All good advice, but nearly all of us long-term RVers are more than willing to help in an emergency. If you have no time or way to contact an expert, and you are at a campground, just ask for help from someone who has a similar RV.

Frankly, we were all once in your situation of not knowing how to manage our motorhomes, and have learned a lot of things the hard way. Plus, most of us like to give advice so just knock on a door if you have to!

 

[Kirk]

he's determined that my power converter has packed it in...

On an RV that is now 38 years old, it isn't surprising that the converter has failed. While you are about it, check the batteries for proper electrolyte levels as well to keep them happy and working at capacity.

Welcome to the group! We enjoy helping new folks enjoy our hobby so do not hesitate to ask more questions at any time.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Hey Jackie.. Yeah I'm in an Rv campground but just had a tech swing by and after testing, he's determined that my power converter has packed it in...At least now I know which direction to head in lol..
Thanks again
Tim

Those old converters were single stage and could easily boil a battery till it is destroyed. Modern converters are multi-stage and will top the house battery's and then drop to a lower voltage so as to maintain the charge without boiling the battery's.

Your best bet is to post a pic of the power center/converter and let us make some recommendations. My bet is you have a Magnetek or BW Phillips power center, which is now Parallax. That was the most popular power center back in the day and is still made. If so the converter of choice is the Progressive Dynamics PD46XX where the XX is the amperage to match your current unit and wire sizes, 35, 45, or 55 amp.

Charles

 

[Playmusic]

On an RV that is now 38 years old, it isn't surprising that the converter has failed. While you are about it, check the batteries for proper electrolyte levels as well to keep them happy and working at capacity.

Welcome to the group! We enjoy helping new folks enjoy our hobby so do not hesitate to ask more questions at any time.

Good Morning and thanks Kirk.. it's sure is a classic lol but still in great condition other than the converter issue. The coach batteries aren't that old so after some checking with a multimeter it was found that my converter is the problem. Only thing is try and find one like this being that old isn't going to happen so I'm checking out some newer ones and then I'll find someone to wire it in.
I'm 58 from Canada so when am I old enough to become a Snowbird hahahaha and just drive down south to the warmer weather lol.
Thanks again Sir hope you have a great day.
Tim

 

[Playmusic]

Those old converters were single stage and could easily boil a battery till it is destroyed. Modern converters are multi-stage and will top the house battery's and then drop to a lower voltage so as to maintain the charge without boiling the battery's.

Your best bet is to post a pic of the power center/converter and let us make some recommendations. My bet is you have a Magnetek or BW Phillips power center, which is now Parallax. That was the most popular power center back in the day and is still made. If so the converter of choice is the Progressive Dynamics PD46XX where the XX is the amperage to match your current unit and wire sizes, 35, 45, or 55 amp.

Charles

Howdy Charles.. Thanks for that advice I'm checking into which one will be compatible, I also have this Specialty Concepts solar thing that is supposed to maintain the batteries so they don't boil as you've mentioned. At the moment I have to run my rv in order to charge them, hopefully it won't be too long til it's fixed.
Here are a few pictures of my system but not sure there's much anyone can do from this point on although the suggestions are greatly appreciated, and meeting some folks is joy all in itself.. haven't been on here long but already starting to love to attitude of some great people.
Hope you have a great day my friend
Cheers from Vancouver Island Canada
Tim

 

[Playmusic]

It most assuredly does. The water pump is a a 12v motor and the fridge requires steady 12v power for it's control circuit board, which operates the fridge gas valve and thermostat. The RV components that need 12v are typically rated to work as low as 10.5v, but often they get flaky around 11.0v.

Your van RV should have two 12v batteries, one to start the engine and operate the automotive stuff and a second auxiliary or "house" battery to supply the lighting and appliances. If both 12v systems are connected to the same battery, you will always be at risk of losing 12v power simply because there isn't much available even when the single battery is new.

Morning Gary... Thanks for the reply/advice. Turns out my engine battery is fine, it's the 2 coach batteries that aren't being charged so I have to start my rv every day for about 20 minutes to charge the house batteries in order to use the fridge and the water pump. Other than those two, everything else is on shore power and working fine. Man learning this life can drive a guy to drinking hahahha..
Being 58, it won't be long til I can call myself a SnowBird and then head south to the warmer weather lol..
Thanks again Gary.
Tim Vancouver Island Canada.