Freeze-Damaged Atwood Water Heater Repair or Replacement

[LonestarGuy]

Yeah, so... beginning of Summer 2024, we had to store our Coachmen off our property. We were unable to use for pretty much two years. We've got it back at home now and starting prep for a trip in April.

I'll skip the small stuff, but important to note that apparently, due to the out of sight, out of mind thing, I never went back to winterize it. (Doh!) And... we had a very deep freeze in N. Texas.

After finding one plumbing issue that could have been freeze related but I wasn't thinking about the freeze at that moment, I decided to add some water to the fresh water tank and run the on-board pump to check the rest of the plumbing out, instead of full water pressure.

So, the pump starts running... and doesn't stop. I had all the cabinets open but it took me a minute to realize something fishy was going on with the hot water heater... there was a hissing coming from it and water puddling at the back end and dripping from the connection box. Even after I turned the pump off, it kept on hissing and dripping for some time.

I know it's a rather dismal situation, but I just thought I'd ask The Forum for thoughts before I move on to replace it. Like, is it possibly less than catastrophic? LOL I plan to replace it myself, unless it's highly discouraged.

I also decided to drain the fresh water and to my surprise, until I realized I didn't winterize, there was a LOT of water in it.

What can I say... it was a busy time in our lives. Lessons that I didn't think I needed to learn, were learned... hopefully.

 

[John From Detroit]

Can not tell from the photos at least not on this computer but I'd guess yes. A new WH is needed.
They do not like to freeze.

 

[LonestarGuy]

OK... looking for a replacement and Atwood doesn't make them anymore. I can imagine all kinds of connection (water and gas) issues using a different model... ugh...

 

[Jackiemac]

From Google

Key Direct Replacement Information

Dometic (Atwood) Models: Since Dometic purchased Atwood, their modern 6 and 10-gallon units are designed as direct replacements, though plumbing and wiring may need minor adjustments.

Door Requirement: Older Atwood doors often do not fit new Dometic models, necessitating a new door kit.

Alternative Brands: For certain marine/RV applications, Kuuma water heaters (such as the Kuuma 11812) are considered for close fit/size replacement for specific Atwood models.



I suggest you type into Google:

Replacement for name and model number

Hopefully it will provide an alternative.

 

[John From Detroit]

OK... looking for a replacement and Atwood doesn't make them anymore. I can imagine all kinds of connection (water and gas) issues using a different model... ugh...

Dometic may replace atwood
As for connection issues. They make flexible pipe. most hardware stores have them.

 

[PancakeBill]

What model do you have. Pretty straightforward to replace. I replaced the one in my 2002. In your camper it would likely just be a 6 gal, and those usually have two formats, square or rectangle. Both available. Plumbing will be cold in at bottom and hot out at top. Have fun.

 

[Kirk]

Atwood doesn't make them anymore. I

Actually, most of the products still built by the same factory but under the Dometic brand name. There have been a few changes but now part of Dometic, the Atwood facility continues its production.

 

[LonestarGuy]

From Google

Key Direct Replacement Information

Dometic (Atwood) Models: Since Dometic purchased Atwood, their modern 6 and 10-gallon units are designed as direct replacements, though plumbing and wiring may need minor adjustments.

Door Requirement: Older Atwood doors often do not fit new Dometic models, necessitating a new door kit.

Alternative Brands: For certain marine/RV applications, Kuuma water heaters (such as the Kuuma 11812) are considered for close fit/size replacement for specific Atwood models.



I suggest you type into Google:

Replacement for name and model number

Hopefully it will provide an alternative.

Thanks. It seems the closest in size and direct fit is the Suburban SAW6DE. Not sure about the brand but the notion that it looks so close to a 'direct fit' is a big positive.

 

[LonestarGuy]

Actually, most of the products still built by the same factory but under the Dometic brand name. There have been a few changes but now part of Dometic, the Atwood facility continues its production.

E-Trailer suggested a Dometic model per a previous post on their site, but the plumbing and gas connections are different and would require more detailed work to connect. The Suburban seems to require the least effort, although for some reason I'd rather have a Dometic. :-/ I'm having an RV tech do the job anyway.

 

[LonestarGuy]

What model do you have. Pretty straightforward to replace. I replaced the one in my 2002. In your camper it would likely just be a 6 gal, and those usually have two formats, square or rectangle. Both available. Plumbing will be cold in at bottom and hot out at top. Have fun.

Atwood GC6AA-10E right on the rectangle or square. Seems the Dometics are square. The Suburban is rectangular and virtually the same size and connection loctions.

 

[CharlesinGA]

The new Dometic will not replace the older Atwood unless you cut out the opening slightly taller and use an adapter kit Dometic makes that includes filler plates to cover the gaps on the sides and an extra wide door to cover the filler plates.

The other alternative is a Suburban Advantage series water heater that fits in the original opening. You still need to buy a special Suburban door.

If your old one has both gas and electric switches inside the trailer, and you go the Suburban route, you need the model ending in DEL. If they try to sell you the DE model (no L) it is the wrong model.

There are several threads on this forum about people getting the wrong model and the issues they had.

Its a shame, in my opinion, the Atwood was the best WH ever made. I would remove it and carefully remove the insulation and see where the damage is. A good aluminum welder can most likely fix it.

Charles

 

[PancakeBill]

ahhh, 10 gal unit. surprisd.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Thanks. It seems the closest in size and direct fit is the Suburban SAW6DE. Not sure about the brand but the notion that it looks so close to a 'direct fit' is a big positive.

As I noted in post #11, the correct replacement for your model Atwood is SAW6DEL. If it does not have the L on the end, there is no relay to operate the electric heat element and your inside electric switch will not have anything to connect to. You will be stuck running outside and opening up the door to switch the electric on and off with the red rocker switch.

See this brochure

If you go the Suburban route, when you cut the wires, cut them on the water heater side of the splices. This will make it easy when you come back here and ask how it hooks up. The trailer companies don't use standard colors, so you might have a green connecting to a Blue on the water heater, etc. Totally unpredictable what they might do.

I still urge you to remove it and see if a welder can repair it. Even if split wide open, it can be reformed to close the gap where it split open and a decent aluminum welder can weld it up.

ahhh, 10 gal unit. surprisd.

No, thats a 6 gallon model, actually the most common and the last model of the Atwood, Gas and Electric, electronic control, spark ignition.

Charles

 

[Rene T]

I would remove it and carefully remove the insulation and see where the damage is. A good aluminum welder can most likely fix it.

Charles

I agree with Charles. Once welded, you can pressure hydro test it. Fill it all the way up with water, do not leave any air pockets . Then apply maybe 75 psi of air. Any leaks will show up immediately.
DO NOT use just air to test. That would be a potential bomb if it exploded. Because you can’t compress water, any leaks the pressure would drop instantly whereas using just air, it could explode

 

[RayIN]

Didn''t Lippert buy Dometic/Atwood?

 

[DutchmenSport]

Before digging in too deep, you need to make sure the problem is the actual water heater and not just one of the plumbing pipes.

Attach the garden hose one more time and have someone turn it on while YOU are actually at the water heater. Now with water spewing, where's it ACTUALLY coming from? If it's a broken pipe or a blown joint, the water will be spewing from there. If it's a pipe, that's a lot less costly than the entire water heater.

Water heaters have an air pocket at the top of the water and the ceiling of the tank. Its JUST possible, there was enough room inside the tank for the ice to expand when frozen that the actual tank didn't have enough pressure on it to break.

So, before going any farther.... find the sourse of the leak first. This may save you a ton of money!

 

[LonestarGuy]

Before digging in too deep, you need to make sure the problem is the actual water heater and not just one of the plumbing pipes.

Attach the garden hose one more time and have someone turn it on while YOU are actually at the water heater. Now with water spewing, where's it ACTUALLY coming from? If it's a broken pipe or a blown joint, the water will be spewing from there. If it's a pipe, that's a lot less costly than the entire water heater.

Water heaters have an air pocket at the top of the water and the ceiling of the tank. Its JUST possible, there was enough room inside the tank for the ice to expand when frozen that the actual tank didn't have enough pressure on it to break.

So, before going any farther.... find the sourse of the leak first. This may save you a ton of money!

Yes, thanks. It's not the plumbing, which is very visible at the back of the unit. As pictured, although it may be hard to see the drop, It's coming from/behind where the cover for the electrical hookup is and some is dripping from the cover itself (as pictured... bottom right corner). I guess I could pull that off and maybe see more.

 

[LonestarGuy]

As I noted in post #11, the correct replacement for your model Atwood is SAW6DEL. If it does not have the L on the end, there is no relay to operate the electric heat element and your inside electric switch will not have anything to connect to. You will be stuck running outside and opening up the door to switch the electric on and off with the red rocker switch.

See this brochure

If you go the Suburban route, when you cut the wires, cut them on the water heater side of the splices. This will make it easy when you come back here and ask how it hooks up. The trailer companies don't use standard colors, so you might have a green connecting to a Blue on the water heater, etc. Totally unpredictable what they might do.

I still urge you to remove it and see if a welder can repair it. Even if split wide open, it can be reformed to close the gap where it split open and a decent aluminum welder can weld it up.


No, thats a 6 gallon model, actually the most common and the last model of the Atwood, Gas and Electric, electronic control, spark ignition.

Charles

I do appreciate the intensity and clarity of your suggestion(s). I will definitely verify the model I purchase, should I end up going that route. I understand welding could work. I have seen both and that last one I looked at (not L version) said single switch operation, but yeah, I have two switches, and the L version does indicate that. Thanks for emphasizing the PN!

 

[LonestarGuy]

I do appreciate the intensity and clarity of your suggestion(s). I will definitely verify the model I purchase, should I end up going that route. I understand welding could work. I have seen both and that last one I looked at (not L version) said single switch operation, but yeah, I have two switches, and the L version does indicate that. Thanks for emphasizing the PN!

I also don't have a problem going with a new one. The money isn't an big issue, although substantial enough savings. Got quote from welder for ~$125. The rig is 8 years old. I wonder how much long the current HWH will last, as in what else could go wrong but most things are repairable. This is probably the worst thing that can happen, right? And it's my fault. I'd have to research important points about gas connections but not scared about it. Hmmm...

 

[CharlesinGA]

I have the exact same model water heater in my 2008 model, works fine. Not much to go wrong with them. I did have to change the ignitor as I was having issues getting it to spark and light at 5000 ft.

That Atwood is far better than the Suburban (porcelain on steel tank) or the current Dometic (look at the pics, the insulation is something like silver coated foam about a quarter inch thick, vs the Atwood with the molded stryofoam like an ice chest.

Charles