Fridge not working in LP or AC mode. Check light on.

[dstodalka]

Hi all,

New to the forum and have been searching through posts trying to find an answer to the issue I am having. I did find some useful information but feel I could still use a little bit of help to solve my problem. I got home from camping on Monday after 3 days of my fridge working on my first trip with my 2006 Trail Cruiser. I tried starting the fridge last night to allow it to cool before we left tonight and got to the trailer this morning only to realize the fridge was not cold and the check light was on. I had it on LP mode so decided to test it out in auto, but had the same result. I press the on button, I hear a click from the fridge, think its working, and then after about 3-4 minutes the check light comes on. I figured I would try my burners to check if I could get the propane working, and that was a success. One other thing to note, I bought a new RV battery and hooked it up Tuesday. My lights and radio seem to be working fine.

I am not sure where to go from here? Change the two fuses?

The fridge model number is Dometic RM 2652.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Drew

 

[therealsimpsons]

Hi Drew,

Welcome to the forum.

I have had that happen to me with a Norcold.  The same symptoms you describe. Here is what worked. I turned it off. Turned it back on. Same thing. I turned it off and on about 3 or 4 times, and that did the trick. YMMV.

Also, I have learned to wait when I first turn it on a couple of days before a new trip. The coach is 2-1/2 miles from home, so I just wait to make sure the check light doesn't come on before I leave.

Stan

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The check light on a 2652 (and most other RV fridges) applies only to LP gas mode. Were you connected to shore power when you tried Auto? If not, Auto merely goes right back to LP mode. Plug it in to 120v and try Auto again. If you can't plug the whole RV in, run an extension cord to the back of the fridge and just plug it in - you will see a standard 120v cord & plug in back.

The check light usually means the fridge cannot detect a gas flame, which could be a failure to light the gas burner, or a failure to sense the flame after it successfully lights. You should be able to visually confirm which it is by watching through the outside access panel.

If you have lights on the control panel, you have 12v power and no need to worry about fuses.

 

[dstodalka]

Hi Stan,

I have tried turning it off and on at least 4 times. I waited 3 minutes and then left and thought that it had been working as usually the check light would come on after 45 seconds if there was an issue.

Gary,

I did not know that the check light only applies to LP mode. I only had my battery powering the RV when I tried auto mode. I thought that a fully charged battery was the first choice over LP in auto mode? And also thought that if the propane was not working it would just run off of the battery? Since this is not the case, if I were to hook up to my truck would that qualify as off-shore power? If not I will drive the trailer somewhere and either hook it up to 120V or take the plug from the fridge and test it out. If the propane is turned off and I am in auto mode what other choice does it have than to just use the battery? Good to know my fuses are working.

I guess another issue would why isn't the propane working on the fridge? Over the weekend i could hear the clicking sound of the flame trying to ignite, but that is not happening anymore.

Thanks for the help guys. Hopefully I can resolve this before I head out today.
.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

To the best of my knowledge, the Dometic Americana 2652 doesn't have a 12v-only mode of operation. It is a two-way fridge, either 120v or LP gas. However, 12v power is required in either case, to operate the circuit board and the interior light.

 

[Jeff]

I would make sure the refrigerator is getting an adequate supply of propane. If the lines have sat they will eventually lose their charge and it takes several tries to purge them. When you hear the igniter do you actually see the flame?

 

[Great Horned Owl]

Is it possible that when you installed the new battery, you got the polarity reversed? If so, the control board in the fridge will not work, and it will not function on propane or on electric.

Joel

 

[dstodalka]

Hi all,

So a few updates... I have determined that the AC power still works as I just took the plug-in from the fridge and ran it to my generator. I didn't realize that my battery could not power the fridge alone. The propane still isn't working though, just the off shore power. I can hear the propane running into the igniter on the back of the fridge, but I can't hear any clicking like I could last weekend. I am not sure why I don't hear the clicking but I get the feeling it is not even trying to ignite the propane.

Any thoughts?

 

[dstodalka]

Update: disconnect AC source thinking the fridge would not work while left in auto mode... Only to find the flame ignited and it kept working on propane. Not sure what caused the issue before.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Glad to hear it is working again!

Not hearing multiple clicks is probably a good sign - means the burner lit on the first try, which is normal for a fridge LP burner. Lots of clicking is a bad sign.

 

[Alfredc22]

Hello I am a new member to the site and I am excited to join I have just purchased a  norcold refrigerator  for my trailer used it was in working condition when I purchased it. It clicks on gas mode but when I  plug it in to the wall source Of my trailer it won't click. My trailer currently does not have batteries I have them charging on the charger I connected and extension cord from my home to my trailer I know there has been some problems with norcold regarding clean power. Do my batteries have to be on my trailer connected in order for my refrigerator to work in non-gas mode?

 

[Alfa38User]

Welcome Alfredc22 !!!

Yes, in many cases!! Regardless of mode, electric or propane, you require 12V for the control boards for the fridge, water heater and furnace.
If you are plugged in then the 12V may come from the converter/battery charger but quite a few of those don't work very well without the batteries installed.

The reason it does not click when plugged in is likely because the fridge has an "Auto" switch or function. On auto mode, the primary mode is 120V electric and is a result of the control board recognizing the presence of 120V being available. Once that happens, then using propane is no longer considered, hence no clicking from the igniter. By leaving the "auto" key on the "OFF" position, the default to 120V electricity is disabled and the fridge should light from propane if it is on. It may take quite a few tries for it to light because of air in the propane lines. And remember, after 3 attempts (clicks ) the system is locked out. To reset it and try again, turn the fridge off then back on. The 'check' light indicates that ignition of the propane failed. It will go out if the propane is lighted successfully.

One way to try and get air out of the propane lines more quickly is to light the stove for 5 minutes as it is not nearly as fussy about the air/propane mix as are the DSI controlled appliances!!!!.

Quoting the make (Norcold) and MODEL of the fridge may get some more specific answers

HTH

 

[Rene T]

And also thought that if the propane was not working it would just run off of the battery? Since this is not the case, if I were to hook up to my truck would that qualify as off-shore power? If not I will drive the trailer somewhere and either hook it up to 120V or take the plug from the fridge and test it out.

No. Your truck is only putting out 12 volt DC. The only way it could work would be if you hade a inverter which would convert DC power to AC power. The chances are you only have a converter which converts 110 volt AC coming into your rig and converts it to 12 volt DC for all your lights, ceiling fans, stereo etc..

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The fridge needs 12v power, but if the trailer is plugged in, it's internal 12v converter/charger should provide that. And yes, hooking the trailer to the truck may provide 12v power as well (but not 120v "shore" power), but that normally happens through a connection at the battery. Since you don't have a battery, not sure what or how that might be connected

There probably is no audible "click" when in 120vac mode - the heater element just starts doing its thing to drive the cooling unit. The click you hear in LP gas mode is the gas solenoid opening followed by the igniter parking. Neither of those happens when in 120v mode.

 

[Alfredc22]

Hello thank you for all so I checked my fridge it's giving me a message saying no ac. No Fl I know it doesn't have gas I'm wanting to turn it on from a power source of my home my batteries are charging in my garage my norcold fridge is model n1095.

 

[Rene T]

Alfred,
Can you please use periods between your sentences. It will make it so much easier to read. Thanks.

 

[Alfredc22]

I'm so sorry, I was using voice command.

 

[Alfredc22]

Hello I checked my norcold fridge today and it's giving me a message saying no Ac and No FL. I hear the clicking on FL but do not have gas. I currently don't  have gas my tanks are empty. Also I currently have  My fridge connected to my home's power source with an extension cored to my trailers power., My batteries are currently charging in my garage. Norcold fridge model# n1095, also I do not does have  batteries connected to my trailer although I'm running power from my home? Some one told me sometimes norcold requires clean energy in order for it to turn on. Does that mean my fridge will not work if I take it camping and connect to to power?

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

No AC means exactly what is says: the refrigerator's circuit board cannot detect 120vac power. It cannot run in 120vac mode without it, so it is trying to switch  to LP gas instead. And since you have no LP, that ain't gonna work either!

The fridge circuit board expects the shore power to be in the range of roughly 100-130v (spec varies a bit by model), so it will accept any halfway reasonable campground power.  I suspect you have a tripped circuit breaker in the power feed to the fridge, or maybe some bad wiring, or perhaps even a blown fuse on the fridge circuit board. Start checking out the 120v power system to see why the fridge has no power.

 

[Alfredc22]

Gary,

Thank you so much greatly appreciate the responds. I do have power to fridge it's just to cycling to turn on, I don't know anything about fridges or electrical so I guess I will start checking fuses and move forward. My fridge was working perfectly find now it's the wiring connecting to my Rv. Thank you so much