fridge problems

[Jerrygroah]

I have a problem with my Norcold model 6182 fridge. I know it is old and needs attention, like me.

The problem is that it will not switch over from AC to LP when in the auto setting. It works fine on the AC, but when disconnected from power the gas comes on momentarily,lights and then goes out. I just discovered after our last trip, this past weekend that if I manualy set the controls to LP the burner will stay lit. Not a major problem, just minor. Does anyone have an explanation for this?

Karl, since you seem to be the electronics guru,I have schematics that I can email to you if you have any ideas.

Thanks, Jerry

 

[Karl]

Jerry,

I'll try to help but need to know what lights are on when in "Auto" mode and you've disconnected from shore power. If any lights flash, also need to know how fast they flash; once per second, three times every 4 seconds, etc. Also measure your DC voltage. If around 10.5V, that's too low and you may need to check your batteries/charging system.

 

[Jerrygroah]

Karl, thanks for the speedy reply. It's late in the day today. I will do as you requested tomorrow and then get back with you. I will measure the DC voltage at the control cicuit board and also at the batteries. At the present time with the AC power connected the lights on my monitor panel indicates
12 volts DC. When disconnected from shore power, the DC voltage drops rather rapidly.

Will also note what the lights on the fridge do when the problem occurs.

Thanks again, Jerry

 

[Jerrygroah]

Hello Karl,I have just checked my fridge again. It will now stay lit with a fully charged battery. I have had the charger hooked up to the batteries overnight and then disconnected it and the fridge will work. I measured the voltage at the batteries and it was 13.2 volts.

When I was trying to get it to work the other day, I don't think the batteries were at full charge. I think this is the direction you were directing me in your responce. Now I know that I will have to have a full charge when trying to operate the fridge.

This brings up another question. The charger that I have will boil my batteries dry, if I am not careful. Thats the reason I do not leave the power hooked up all the time. The charger is built in with the converter that came with the coach. My question is, how can I disable the current charger and then plumb in one of the smart chargers? Or can I ?

Thanks, Jerry

 

[Karl]

Jerry,

I think this is the direction you were directing me in your responce.

Yup!

My question is, how can I disable the current charger and then plumb in one of the smart chargers? Or can I ?

Of course you can. just unplug it. Your current (no pun intended) charger is probably plugged in to 120VAC somewhere and has 2 fairly large cables connecting it to the batteries. Simply remove it and replace it with the new charger/converter, swap the cables, plug 'er in and your done. The new one may have a remote panel to indicate voltage, level of charge etc., and they are usually wired to a convenient location with a simple telephone extension cable. Probably included. Routing that will probably be the hardest part of the swap. The new one may also have different settings for flooded cell or AGM batteries. Make sure you set it for your battery type as the charging rates and voltages are slightly different.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

You definitely need solid 12V power for the fridge to operate, but moderatelly low batteries should not cause a problem. Ours can easily run with a battery voltage in the 11.0-11.5V range and so should yours.

 

[172ndLIB]

As far as your converter goes if it is a Magnetek 6300 series you can replace the lower unit with the 7345RU and have a step mode converter that willnot boil your batteries dry.  If you have any other type it can be replaced with a PD9200 series.