A couple weeks ago our electric outlet for camper(2002 Keystone Montana, fifth wheel ) lost its ground and camper lost power. With no electric power batteries were dead. We noticed when slides wouldn’t close. Husband bought new battery and changed it out. Fixed electricity issue and all power was back on. We noticed no lights on refrigerator. We checked breakers, fuses, bfi switch in bathroom. All looked good. We checked back of refrigerator and no yellow stuff. We checked those fuses and they looked good. We did however find the thermodisc was popped out and off. We reset thermodisc and all was back on. Refrigerator seemed fine for about 15 or 20 minutes then back off again. I read where thermodisc fuse could go bad so I found a new one and changed it out. It did same thing but maybe lasted a little longer than before. Long story short do I need to get new fridge? This fridge was bought and installed in 2014. Fridge in camper is dm2852. I don’t think they make is fridge anymore. Can I just put a regular fridge in its place? Thanks for your help in this matter! Hope I didn’t miss anything.
Frigerator issues
- Thread starter TrudyC
- Start date
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gwinger
Well-known member
That fridge is still available according to Dometic.
Problem with installing a residential, is the Dometic is an 8 cuft. finding something to fit in the space is questionable.
Problem with installing a residential, is the Dometic is an 8 cuft. finding something to fit in the space is questionable.
IBTripping
Well-known member
I replaced the absorption refrigerator in my old travel trailer with a residential refrigerator. After I removed the dead refrigerator, I measured the space it was in and purchased a residential from Lowe's that fit the empty hole.
When I looked it said discontinued
Forgot to mention, we tried it on electric and gas and it did same thing.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
It is possible something has clogged the flu on the Fridge.. Check it out top and bottom if you can. If air can not flow properly through the heat exchanger or if the "Chimney" part (Flu) is clogged.. Pop goes the thermal cutout.
Kirk
Well-known member
If what you are resetting is the one in this picture, it is there to open when the boiler temperature exceeds safe levels. That can happen for several reasons, but the heat source you are using doesn't affect the cause. It typically means a failing cooling unit.
gwinger
Well-known member
This site shows a replacement for the 2852:
Dometic DM2852RB DM2872RB Refrigerator / Freezer 2-way - 8 Cu. Ft | RV Parts Country
www.rvpartscountry.com
CharlesinGA
Well-known member
You really need to do some more through troubleshooting.
When you tried it on gas, did it click (gas valve opening) and then the ignitor fired (click, click, click) and then the flame lit?
What button are you resetting? show us a pic of it.
On 120v ac you would need to take a volt meter and measure the voltage going into the heat element in the chimney at the boiler. A plugged up chimney from possibly mud wasps will affect the gas cooling of a fridge, but not the electric heating of the boiler, the fridge will still cool on 120v ac even with a plugged chimney.
Is your RV 50 amp, or 30 amp? your description tends to lead me to think that you didn't lose the ground, but rather the neutral. Losing the ground, you probably would never know it, losing the neutral, things quit, but voltage gets wacky, especially 50 amp. Instead of 120v on either side of the buss, you could have had anything up to 240v on the buss, and may have fried some circuit boards in appliances.
Charles
When you tried it on gas, did it click (gas valve opening) and then the ignitor fired (click, click, click) and then the flame lit?
What button are you resetting? show us a pic of it.
On 120v ac you would need to take a volt meter and measure the voltage going into the heat element in the chimney at the boiler. A plugged up chimney from possibly mud wasps will affect the gas cooling of a fridge, but not the electric heating of the boiler, the fridge will still cool on 120v ac even with a plugged chimney.
Is your RV 50 amp, or 30 amp? your description tends to lead me to think that you didn't lose the ground, but rather the neutral. Losing the ground, you probably would never know it, losing the neutral, things quit, but voltage gets wacky, especially 50 amp. Instead of 120v on either side of the buss, you could have had anything up to 240v on the buss, and may have fried some circuit boards in appliances.
Charles
It is the thermodisc or fuse we reset.If what you are resetting is the one in this picture, it is there to open when the boiler temperature exceeds safe levels. That can happen for several reasons, but the heat source you are using doesn't affect the cause. It typically means a failing cooling unit.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
And that is what we are trying to understand. What thermodisc and where is it? What temperature measuring circuit is it part of? And ditto for the fuse - there are multiple fuses involved in an absorption fridge. Also, fuses don't "reset" - they are either blown (not conducting electricity) or not.
Kirk
Well-known member
The one shown in the picture is for boiler overheating. Is that the one?
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
Well, if that thermostat is seeing a thermal overload, than it will trigger a fridge shutdown for safety reasons (fire or even a high-pressure explosion). Resetting only works until it heats up again.
Boiler overheat is cause by failure to circulate the ammonia-hydrogen coolant or a loss of the hydrogen and/or ammonia gas. In other words, a failed cooling unit. It is not repairable except by replacing the cooling unit. That's actually practical as a DIY project, but it's not cheap except in comparison to the price of a new fridge.
Boiler overheat is cause by failure to circulate the ammonia-hydrogen coolant or a loss of the hydrogen and/or ammonia gas. In other words, a failed cooling unit. It is not repairable except by replacing the cooling unit. That's actually practical as a DIY project, but it's not cheap except in comparison to the price of a new fridge.
OldWEB
Well-known member
Your unit not being close to level (more than 6°) could also cause the coolant to not flow correctly and overheat the boiler.
