Frustrated with starting system

[ChefDave1]

1996 Fleetwood Pacearrow Vision. I put 1 new battery in the compartment in front of the right entrance door (I assume that is the engine battery location) and the other 2 batteries for the house are on the driver side (12 V each) I have had this coach about 9 months with little to no problems. But now I will not start. In the past when the key is on the radio comes on and the dash controls come alive as they should. But now nothing. I have rechecked the battery terminals (tight and clean) new yellow top battery (full charge 12.7V on charger now just in case) all switches on as normal. stairs go up and down as normal so I know the house batteries are OK. What am I missing? Does not even click like a relay just nothing. I have even played with the detent on the column because 1 time it was not all the way in park so I made sure it is in park now

 

[tlmgcamp1]

When was the last time it was running?

 

[ChefDave1]

October 2024 so about 5 months ago

 

[DonTom]

stairs go up and down as normal so I know the house batteries are OK

I think the stairs run from the engine starting battery--not the house battery. At least in mine. They will even work with the "salesman switch" turned off.

-Don- Boron, CA

 

[DonTom]

1996 Fleetwood Pacearrow Vision. I put 1 new battery in the compartment in front of the right entrance door (I assume that is the engine battery location) and the other 2 batteries for the house are on the driver side (12 V each) I have had this coach about 9 months with little to no problems. But now I will not start. In the past when the key is on the radio comes on and the dash controls come alive as they should. But now nothing. I have rechecked the battery terminals (tight and clean) new yellow top battery (full charge 12.7V on charger now just in case) all switches on as normal. stairs go up and down as normal so I know the house batteries are OK. What am I missing? Does not even click like a relay just nothing. I have even played with the detent on the column because 1 time it was not all the way in park so I made sure it is in park now

Are you checking the voltages under load? If they are low under load, most likely a battery problem. If high under load, could be a corroded battery cable--including the thick ground cable. There cannot be a voltage drop between the battery negative, frame and engine. A corroded ground cable can be tricky, I have seen it happen more than once. And not uncommon on a 29-year-old vehicle.

-Don- Boron, CA

 

[ChefDave1]

Thanks Don I did not even think of the cables at all. By the way I do have a newer Winnebago. But this Pacearrow fell into my lap for $500 2 years ago and this is the first problem I have had. It has been from Tampa to DC for family emergencies in that short time. And the big plus is that it looks as good as the day it came out of the factory

 

[Onyrlef]

I have even played with the detent on the column because 1 time it was not all the way in park so I made sure it is in park now

If the steps are working, and it was a connectivity issue preventing it from starting you'd likely get a clicking at least, the dash lights would come on as well. I'd look into the issue you'd had before or the ignition switch.

 

[Dusty Traveler]

Have you had the chance to explore the handy "TRANSFER SWITCH" on the driver’s left side, just below the dashboard? It’s a fantastic feature! When starting the coach, simply hold the switch to cut the power from the under-hood batteries, allowing you to kick things off with the HOUSE BATTERIES instead. Just remember, once you let go of the switch, it will automatically return to the under-hood batteries.

Before you charge those under-hood batteries, it's wise to check the water levels. If any cells look a bit low, top them off with distilled water! Start with a quick FAST charge for an hour, and then use a nice slow trickle charge to keep them in great shape.

If your batteries are over five years old, it might be time to consider replacements. Also, if you notice any battery dropping below 10.0 volts more than twice, even fresh out of the box, it’s a sign they may need to be replaced. I wish you all the best with your coach maintenance! You’ve got this!

 

[Onyrlef]

Have you had the chance to explore the handy "TRANSFER SWITCH" on the driver’s left side, just below the dashboard? It’s a fantastic feature! When starting the coach, simply hold the switch to cut the power from the under-hood batteries, allowing you to kick things off with the HOUSE BATTERIES instead. Just remember, once you let go of the switch, it will automatically return to the under-hood batteries.

Before you charge those under-hood batteries, it's wise to check the water levels. If any cells look a bit low, top them off with distilled water! Start with a quick FAST charge for an hour, and then use a nice slow trickle charge to keep them in great shape.

If your batteries are over five years old, it might be time to consider replacements. Also, if you notice any battery dropping below 10.0 volts more than twice, even fresh out of the box, it’s a sign they may need to be replaced. I wish you all the best with your coach maintenance! You’ve got this!

The battery is new and were it so depleted as to not even light the dash the booster wouldn't help regardless.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

I'd be concerned the battery was hooked up backwards. Does anything at all go on and off with the key - radio, door chime? What about headlights? Those are direct to the battery and if they're not working it should be pretty easy to trace where the fault is.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[TheBar]

In my college days while working as a mechanic we had lots of people blow out the inline fuse in the battery cable when installing new batteries. The fuses are there to disconnect the battery in a collision.

 

[DonTom]

In my college days while working as a mechanic we had lots of people blow out the inline fuse in the battery cable when installing new batteries. The fuses are there to disconnect the battery in a collision.

I don't think I have heard of this before (except in electric motorcycles). Which battery cable? The thick red? Is this in just some vehicles? What does it look like? The current rating?

-Don- Boron, CA

 

[ChefDave1]

Have you had the chance to explore the handy "TRANSFER SWITCH" on the driver’s left side, just below the dashboard? It’s a fantastic feature! When starting the coach, simply hold the switch to cut the power from the under-hood batteries, allowing you to kick things off with the HOUSE BATTERIES instead. Just remember, once you let go of the switch, it will automatically return to the under-hood batteries.

Before you charge those under-hood batteries, it's wise to check the water levels. If any cells look a bit low, top them off with distilled water! Start with a quick FAST charge for an hour, and then use a nice slow trickle charge to keep them in great shape.

If your batteries are over five years old, it might be time to consider replacements. Also, if you notice any battery dropping below 10.0 volts more than twice, even fresh out of the box, it’s a sign they may need to be replaced. I wish you all the best with your coach maintenance! You’ve got this!

Thanks Dusty I have tried all that and the house batteries are 1 year old red tops and the engine battery I just bought yesterday (ouch $361) Of all the batteries the lowest reading was on the new one at 12.7. I have to think it is a relay either on the transmission, possibly the previous owner had work under the coach and the rod got turned 1 or 2 threads off the adjustment, as it has a totally new stainless. Thanks for the help

 

[SpencerPJ]

Seems years ago (as I have forgotten much), to test if the starter relay was bad you could jump it with a screwdriver (Fords as I recall were on the firewall). I might look into that, and just for grins, pop it in neutral and give it a try.

 

[ChefDave1]

Have not tried that first I was trying to eliminate electoral gremlins (old habit from working for MOTOROLA as a tech)

 

[Lou Schneider]

In my college days while working as a mechanic we had lots of people blow out the inline fuse in the battery cable when installing new batteries. The fuses are there to disconnect the battery in a collision.

It's also called a fusible link, a section of cable that's designed to melt and interrupt the circuit if there's grossly excessive current flow.

https://www.carparts.com/blog/what-are-fusible-links-plus-symptoms-how-to-check-and-how-to-replace/

 

[DonTom]

old habit from working for MOTOROLA as a tech)

Ever hear of Delta Communications in the 1970's? They were a Motorola Service Shop. I worked for them for a couple of years back then, in Menlo Park, CA.

-Don- Quartzsite, AZ

 

[TheBar]

I don't think I have heard of this before (except in electric motorcycles). Which battery cable? The thick red? Is this in just some vehicles? What does it look like? The current rating?

-Don- Boron, CA

According to this article not all cars have fusible links. The ones I've seen have been in the positive main power line. Not the battery cable to the starter but the heavy cable attached to the same starter terminal as in the picture below, or at the starter solenoid at one end or the other of the line. I assume the current rating varies by make and model. If you find no other explanation this might be it. Especially when putting in a new battery or starter where it might get shorted, or anything that causes excessive current draw.

 

[TheBar]

I might add there can be more than one fusible link in a vehicle. But if all power is dead its probably the one in the starter circuit. That's usually the main power circuit for everything else.

 

[DonTom]

In my college days while working as a mechanic we had lots of people blow out the inline fuse in the battery cable when installing new batteries. The fuses are there to disconnect the battery in a collision.

Yeah, I know about "fusible links". IIRC, it's just a short wire that is 25% of the thickness it should be for the current draw and will burn open with an overload.

Not quite the same as an "inline fuse in the battery cable", the cable is the fuse for a fusible link.

-Don- Quartzsite, AZ