Full-Time Travel Trailer Living for Temporary Work Relocation

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Member Title: Living in a Travel Trailer
Members shared extensive advice for living full-time in a travel trailer as a cost-effective alternative to apartment living, especially for a multi-year work assignment. Key recommendations included skirting the trailer for winter, using a large propane tank for heating, and installing a diesel heater for extreme cold. Several RVers stressed the importance of heat tape on water hoses, tank heaters, and having a backup generator in case of power outages. The need to confirm year-round...
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I am wondering how you are going to handle plumbing and electrical for a laundry

Yeah, have to figure this out.

Thankfully the plumbing should be straight forward, just like the rest of the plumbing.

Electricity is no issue... Our dryer is a 110v unit. Now, I just have to figure out if I can run the washer and dryer at the same time on a single 20amp circuit. If not, then we will run one then the other, or I will add a circuit, run the wire and add a recepticle.

Did the demo/strip-out on the bunk room today and added the washer and dryer.

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On Wednesday, April first, I am driving the Trailer to our RV Campground and setting it up permanently. We were patient the last two months and reserved a site that has two massive trees that just opened up, providing shade on the site all day long. That shade should really keep us cooler in the summer.
 
On Wednesday, April first, I am driving the Trailer to our RV Campground and setting it up permanently. We were patient the last two months and reserved a site that has two massive trees that just opened up, providing shade on the site all day long. That shade should really keep us cooler in the summer.

Parking under large trees may open up a can of worms. Branches falling during a storm and other animal debris falling on the roof. No matter how healthy the tree looks, inner branches die off and fall.
I know this for a fact. My neighbor has two large oak trees and my yard is covered with dead branches after a storm.
 
Parking under large trees may open up a can of worms. Branches falling during a storm and other animal debris falling on the roof. No matter how healthy the tree looks, inner branches die off and fall.
I know this for a fact. My neighbor has two large oak trees and my yard is covered with dead branches after a storm.

I'm aware.... but thanks. In my area, we do not have serious thunder storms or nasty high winds. Yeah, we will leaves and bird droppings, but I will take the shade in a heartbeat.
 
Now, I just have to figure out if I can run the washer and dryer at the same time on a single 20amp circuit.
Definitely not. Well, I suppose the dryer could be just a warmer and have really low power draw (wattage), but that would hardly deserve the name "dryer". If the dryer has a standard 15A 120v plug (two parallel blades), the dryer probably uses 12 amps (1440 watts). Doesn't leave much for the washer motor & pump.
 
Plus, that 1440 is for the heating element only. Add the current the dryer motor uses and you will be very close to the 15 amp limit.
 
And live in a new unit and not a ratty apartment with sketchy neighbors.

Heh. I'm not sure most RV parks are a great step above apartments when it comes to sketchy neighbors.

You haven't said where you are in Colorado, but we're fulltimers and have spent a few winters in Denver over the years, and one in Grand Junction. Denver definitely gets its share of nasty thunderstorms and high winds in the summer. One hailstorm resulted in oval marks all over the side of the RV, and I finally figured out it was the hail hitting sideways with the wind and scraping off oxidation.

We have a 40-foot motorhome and not a travel trailer, but have never skirted it. I think we've pushed the snow off the roof a few times, but we weren't near any trees and Denver's sun shovel would usually take care of things after a few days.

Our motorhome has enormous windows, and the sun makes a world of difference in the winter. (It also makes it hotter than **** in the summer.) There were times when the outside temperature was in the 40s but I had to open a window because it was too hot inside. But the second the sun went down, brrrrrr.

We didn't have to pay for electricity, and would primarily use space heaters, using the propane furnace only when a couple of space heaters wouldn't do the trick. The last few times we've stayed in Denver, our electricity was access to two separately breakered 20-amp outlets--where there's a will, there's a way.

Does your trailer have a propane refrigerator? If so, I'd suggest covering about 2/3 of the outside vent when temperatures get to the mid or low teens, and if it's going to be approaching zero degrees, put an incandescent bulb in there. We had our refrigerator stop working in the Chicago area twice, and finally figured out it was because it was too cold outside. Haven't had it happen since then, taking these measures. Or maybe it wouldn't have happened even without these measures. I don't want to find out.

One nice thing about being in Denver in the winter was that condensation wasn't all that bad, but we have dual pane windows. The aluminum frames do ice up on the inside. But we don't crack a vent or open a window when showering, and the only real condensating that happens is on the windshield. I compare that to winters in the Pacific Northwest--the condensation was unreal. There's moss on the sides of RVs, and I saw actual sprouts at the bottom of some people's windows.
 
Hey , for sure and you've been told and know yourself but wrap everything and I put in your area under your RV where your pipes are put a small heater and run the cord to a surge plug. Also put 1 or 2 small heaters under your RV, securely to keep it warm when needed even maybe room it off to keep the heat at those areas. Like others had said, don't know where your at. I use to have 2 hollegin work lamps pointing at my pipes plus they were rapped big time. Even your sewer hose from the top to end. As for your water hose you can get a heated hose on Amazon with any wraps you need. You'll need to open your closet doors with any pipes or small heater. If you have the time and your a neat freak like I did , it comes out great if you can place in a hidden spot a nice set up. Screw in a surge protector, plug in your plugs, this way on a cold nite all you have to do is flip the switch. Be sure it's not in an area to get kicked or such to just be flipped on in July and those heaters just run.
I'm sure everyone has passed on this advice too but just helping. Good luck.
 
1,400W = 12A @ 120VAC, lower voltage will increase amp-draw accordingly. This leaves 8A for the washer. You can wire-in 1 circuit and put a 3-way switch controlling 2 receptacles to make switching units easy for DW. That used to be standard practice before 50A RV's were made, the switch controlled running the A/C or microwave.
It's far more likely the resistance of the heating element in the dryer (by far the largest draw) will remain constant and both voltage and current will drop in proportion to one another.
 
It's far more likely the resistance of the heating element in the dryer (by far the largest draw) will remain constant and both voltage and current will drop in proportion to one another.
That's not how I understand Ohms law. Voltage and current/amperes change inversely, as voltage decreases, amperage increases with the same resistance.
 
That's not how I understand Ohms law. Voltage and current/amperes change inversely, as voltage decreases, amperage increases with the same resistance.
Nope. If the power stays constant which won't happen unless there's a change in resistance. If the resistance stays constant, voltage and current will both change in proportion to each other.

Ohms Law Wheel
 
Nope. If the power stays constant which won't happen unless there's a change in resistance. If the resistance stays constant, voltage and current will both change in proportion to each other.

Ohms Law Wheel
As voltage decreases to a motor, amp-draw increases. I'm convinced that's correct. Perhaps some electricians will chime in and correct whichever is misunderstanding.
 
As voltage decreases to a motor, amp-draw increases. I'm convinced that's correct. Perhaps some electricians will chime in and correct whichever is misunderstanding.
We're not talking about a motor - we're talking about the resistive heating element in a dryer. The motor that rotates the drum is a very small part of the total load.
 

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