Furnace and Refer installing

[Midgetracer31]

Have new Dometic 6.5 cu ft refer and a 17,000 Atwood direct vent furnace. Should I install the furnace below the refer? And what kind of an acess door or doors should I use??  Thanks for all help and suggestions!!!
If you have a ideal setup in your RV and you would not mind snap a inside and outside pic for me!! That would be great!!

 

[Jim Dick]

First, what kind of coach do you have? It makes a difference in what may be available for locations.

The furnace should have an access door provided. It's usually held on with 4 screws with a gasket for access to the furnace when necessary. The intake and exhuast comes through the access door. There should be a flanged area around the furnace where the access door attaches. This should be sealed to the side of the coach. Putty tape usually does a good job of sealing and is used by many manufacturers.

Installing below a refer is possible and has been done but the ideal location would be below floor level in a bay. Not many coaches can accommodate this but it makes the furnace MUCH quieter when inside. It would also keep the heat away from the refer. If you can't install below the floor, I'd look at an alternate location such as under a cabinet area.

 

[Ron]

Sounds like you are in the process of making a conversion from a bus. ?Our Bounder had a furnace in the bay under the refer and a second furnace on the other side. ? Hope this helps. ?


We might be able to provide more information if you could tell us what kine of coach or vehicle this is used on.

 

[Midgetracer31]

Well actually what we are doing is a RV conversion/ living quarters in our 32' Haulmark Elite II enclosed race trailer!! Down one outside wall looking at it from left to right will be a wardrobe, fridge, drawer cab, sink base, 48" x 72" dinette this in a 14' space. the drawer base and sink base with counter top is 48". The fridge cab and wardrobe cabs are 24" each respectivly. I can place the furnace under the wardrobe if that would be best. I could then place my power converter and 12 fuse panel under the Fridge. Or give me you suggestions, let me know if you need more info!!

 

[Ron]

Sounds like quite a project.  Please keep us informed on your progress.

 

[Jim Godward]

>> I can place the furnace under the wardrobe if that would be best. I could then place my power converter and 12 fuse panel under the Fridge. Or give me you suggestions, let me know if you need more info!!<<

In our Dutch Star diesel pusher the furnace is under the Fridge.  No problem there as both are well insulated and separated.  The Fridge should be in a cabinet that is air tight to the living area. 

The furnace Has ducting and you need to be sure you meet the manufacturers requirements for incoming cool air and the minimum number of ducts.  In our MH, I added a filter to the cool air side of the furnace to aid in controlling dust. 

If you check the installation sheets for both and follow them, you should be in good shape.  Ask if you need more information

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I don't think the outside access panel comes with the furnace, Jim.  That, the exterior through-wall fittings and the ducting are usually provided by the Rv builder, I think.  I've seen several Rvs with no outer access -  just the two through-the-wall fittings for exhaust and air intake.  The wall fittings should be available from RV parts houses and probably a standard size exterior access panel as well.

On the inside it is probaly a good idea to make the return air intake a removable panel, i.e. a screen in a frame that can be removed from the interior wall.  Mine is below the fridge and held in place with two decorative-head screws.  It uses speaker-grill material to provide a pretty covering.  Removing the air intake screen gives decent access to the furnace and ducting, in case maintennace is ever needed

The connections to the outer wall must be air tight to prevent exhaust from flowing back into the interior and to assure the furnace draws its combustion air from the outside.  The furnace itself is factory sealed and does not have to isolated from the interior.

As Ron says, follow the furnace manufacturer's installation instructions. The ones I have seen are pretty explicit about clearances and the sizes needed for proper air intake and flow through the ducts.  Cheating on those, esecially ducting,  will impact the function of the furnace, sometimes severely.  And make sure the combustion intake and exhaust are well sealed - your life may depend on it!

 

[Jim Dick]

Gary,

You're right. Some only have the intake and exhaust openings. I was thinking of the rigs where there is an access panel that attaches to the flange mount on the furnace. I would think that would all come as one package. I'll have to check the next time I'm at the shop.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I think at least some of the Atwoods come with the outer flange/door you describe. The Suburbans come in several models, some of which appear to be bare and some have intake and exhaust attached, but no outer panel.  And of course the furnaces can be bought as  a component part(s) rather than a complete package for a new install.  [sigh] Nothing is ever straight-forward, is it?

 

[Jim Dick]

Gary,

Thinks are not as they seem.