gas generac generator will not turn over in 2004 Damon Daybreak

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SENIOR

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Tried to start generac generator in RV.Turned over for a short time; then will not turn anymore.Batteries are good.Oil needs to be changed.When pushing the starter button there is no noise from the solenoid.Thank you.Any info will be greatly appreciated.
 

Alfa38User

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The batteries may not be as good as you think as what you describe is a classic low battery or bad/dirty connection symptom!! Many generators, if not most, use the house batteries. darsben has made a good suggestion though, and you can also try starting using the key that bridges the two systems together.
 

Charlotte-96

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I will post in here because this is on topic for me as well. I'm a newby so I will do my best to explain what is going on.

Walk in the camper and my COT sensor is beaping so I push the reset test and it stops and goes back to green.
I noticed that when I turned on the lights they seemed dimmer than usual and the red X on the fridge that says Check is lit. Hmmm I think, have I not charged up the house batteries in a while? I just drove 20 miles though, so I tried to start the generator from the Dash (nothing), hmm, go to the generator and try from there (nothing) and when I mean nothing I mean the switches don't work.

I do hear a faint double click at the generator when I push the start button.

So I reset the house breakers and check my battery meter and it only shows 9v and usually is around 11.8 or so.

I checked online and there are SO many things to check and test I thought I better jump on here and ask the experts with the story and see what they say.

Crappy thing, we're supposed to leave tomorrow for a trip (Murphy's Law)

Help  :eek:
 

darsben

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Charlotte-96 said:
I will post in here because this is on topic for me as well. I'm a newby so I will do my best to explain what is going on.

Walk in the camper and my COT sensor is beaping so I push the reset test and it stops and goes back to green.
I noticed that when I turned on the lights they seemed dimmer than usual and the red X on the fridge that says Check is lit. Hmmm I think, have I not charged up the house batteries in a while? I just drove 20 miles though, so I tried to start the generator from the Dash (nothing), hmm, go to the generator and try from there (nothing) and when I mean nothing I mean the switches don't work.

I do hear a faint double click at the generator when I push the start button.

So I reset the house breakers and check my battery meter and it only shows 9v and usually is around 11.8 or so.

I checked online and there are SO many things to check and test I thought I better jump on here and ask the experts with the story and see what they say.

Crappy thing, we're supposed to leave tomorrow for a trip (Murphy's Law)

Help  :eek:

11.8 volts is almost impossibly low  on a working 12 volt battery. However the meter may be inaccurate. If you have a battery charger then hook it up to the battery and charge the battery fully. Take the battery to a local auto parts store and have it LOAD TESTED
 

Charlotte-96

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ok so I think I know what is wrong then. I added distilled water to one of the batteries and didn't charge it (turn on the generator) I let it sit and then drove about 30 miles.

I have two 6V Trojan batteries and I only added fluid to one. So I should pull the battery and get it tested or hook up to AC power and that will charge the batteries and give me house power correct?
 

Charlotte-96

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I also gather that if I don't have enough charge the buttons for the generator won't work to crank it up? I tried running the engine and starting the generator with no luck. The starter switch is just dead at both the unit and in the cab.
 

Charlotte-96

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I'm pulling my batteries and taking them to test the load capacity and hopefully add a charge to them at the autoshop.

Additional question: I noticed that my converter says 50w but my generator says 30w and has a switch but is on 30w. So do I have a 50w or 30 RV? I ask because I bought a surge protector for 30w.
 

Rene T

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Charlotte-96 said:
Additional question: I noticed that my converter says 50w but my generator says 30w and has a switch but is on 30w. So do I have a 50w or 30 RV? I ask because I bought a surge protector for 30w.

Look at the plug which you plug into the campground pedestal. If it has 3 pins, it's a 30 Amp. If it has 4 pins, it would be a 50 Amp RV.
 

Alfa38User

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Additional question: I noticed that my converter says 50w but my generator says 30w and has a switch but is on 30w. So do I have a 50w or 30 RV? I ask because I bought a surge protector for 30w.

The watts on the converter label has nothing to do with the 120V power you plug into. That is the DC output power the CONverter can  produce. See Ren?'s answer above for the definitive answer.
 
 

Charlotte-96

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Ok perfect thank you.

So here's my problem now which from a little research tells me the converter has gone bad, but I'm not 100% on that.

I pulled the batteries and took them to autozone to load test and they came back at 5.9v and took a full charge. I hooked them back up and test the volt monitor and got a 11.7 reading (all good so far).

I around back to try and start the generator and it started to crank over but was having trouble and making a strange clacking choking sound. It also seemed like it wasn't getting enough power to start so I started the truck engine hoping that would give it the kick it needed, but same thing.

Then my low power warning alarm on my COT started beeping again and the fridge check X came back on also.

I looked at the volt monitor and it then showed 11v so it drained .7 volts just trying to start the generator.

Help, I have no house power and don't know what the heck it is. 

Thanks
 

darsben

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I feel 11.7 is too low should be about 12.4 or better.
Can you put a battery charger on the batteries?]
A 12 volt battery charger would need to be hooked to the negative terminal that goes TO GROUND and the positive to the terminal that has the big wire going to the coach. Start battery charger and then try starting generator
 

Charlotte-96

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I don't have access to a battery charger and my bank is two 6v batteries on the opposite side of the rig, not a genius plan I know but that's what the previous owner did.

My question is still, what does the Converter have to do with starting the generator? Wouldn't 11 volts be enough to start the generator?
 

darsben

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11.7 is to low to start anything.
Converter has nothing to do with starting the generator. The converter takes 110 volts and converts it into 12 volts for use in rig. The converter my include a battery charge function for the house batteries.  The charger part may have fuses on it
Converters come on various sizes including 50 watt. The wattage has to do with how much 12 volt stuff you can run at once. Such as lights etc.
 

Ernie n Tara

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The batteries  are probably  trashed  at 11.7V. Full charge will be about 12.6 and dead about 12V. You can check the batteries individually to be about 6.3. Also check all of the connections to be clean and having good contact. After ensuring you have good batteries, check the converter for bad  fuses or breakers off, and then for  about 13.3V charging Voltage.

Ernie
 

Alfa38User

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My question is still, what does the Converter have to do with starting the generator?

Wouldn't 11 volts be enough to start the generator?

Very little but... In most cases, the generator is started by the house batteries and the converter is responsible for keeping them charged. The problem you have described is typical for a dead battery (or batteries) and 11.7 volts is a really, really dead battery. The problem may be one of the two 6V batteries with a dead cell in it, but both should be changed out if that should prove to be the case. You can check each batteries voltage by opening the wire connecting the two together (+ to -) and measure across each individually, about 6.3V each when charged.

While plugged in and under charge, the typical voltage reading across the battery terminals will be about 13.3-13.5V or so. As mentioned by others, the typical converter will have two fuses associated with the charger output. Their purpose is to blow and protect the converter should the batteries be hooked up backwards accidentally, even momentarily, but they have been known to blow without that happening.

Typical battery chargers can charge either a 6 Volt or 12V battery, depending on your needs and is selected by a switch on the front of it. It is probably another tool you should add to your arsenal along with a voltmeter (or multimeter) independent of the built-in variety.
 

Charlotte-96

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ok this all makes sense two dead batteries that I killed arggg. Learned $$$ lesson, I will go get two new batteries today and see if that solves the issue and I will check the Converter though it sits behind the breaker box and I see no external fuses. So maybe they are housed inside the case. There are fuses on the outside next to the breaker but they are all ok.

Does anyone know if Costco Deep Cycle Golf Cart batteries come charged? I'm thinking it would be a good idea to have a 30amp charger I just have to find a place with power to hook up. Is there a certain type of external charger I should look at, speed charger?

Thanks for all your help  8)
 

Alfa38User

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The come charged but, usually not fully charged by the time you take delivery. In the case of those fuses, they are often well marked on on that front panel when compared with the rest of the fuses. When checking the converter, you do NOT have to see it. Simply measure across the battery terminals  using a voltmeter/multimeter. You should see at least 13.4V - 14.5V when it is working (IE plugged in or on generator) as it should be.

Check the physical size of those batteries and be sure they will fit. Golf cart batteries are a good choice but they are often a little bigger (taller) than automotive batteries. Golf cart batteries come in 3 different voltage ranges 6V, 8.5V and 12V. You need either 2x6v or 1x12V. They can be $$$.
 

grashley

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Charlotte, welcome to the Forum!

Two tools you need are a battery charger and a multimeter.

Do you have access to shore power where the RV is parked?

If not, charge the batteries overnight at home before installing them in the RV.  As stated above, a fully charged battery should measure 12.6 - 12.7 Volts.  A battery that measures 12.0V is already 50% discharged.  This may be too low to start the genny.

Lower than 12V will certainly get the other alarms you mentioned.  All indicate a low battery.

With the genny running or on shore power, measure the voltage at the batteries.  If they read around 12.6V, then the converter is NOT charging the batteries.  If they read 13.5V or more, the converter is working and is providing a charge to the batteries.
 

Charlotte-96

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OK thanks, I will check this tomorrow because I just bought new batteries and the last thing I want now is to drain those down. The only items I have pulling from the house power is the ignition for the LP fridge and my COT sensor which has a low power alarm.

My last reading on the monitor said 12.4v without the genny running. So if I crank that on and look at the monitor it would be reading 13.5 from what you're saying because that means it's taking a charge?

If it still only reads 12.4 or lower after starting the genny then the converter is bad and not supplying recharge power to the batteries.

I'm starting to get the hang of this now.  :eek:

Now I've heard multi-stage converters are great, what would you recommend should I have to replace the converter?
 

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