generac q55g just clicks

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engelwood39

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Hello all! I am new to the forum and a new RV owner as of yesterday. I got a 1999 Sunseeker that needs some TLC. I am excited to be part of the community.

Here is the problem I am having. The generator (a Generac q55g) is not starting. It just clicks on time.
Here is what I know:
>battery is good, tested with a load tester
>solenoid is getting 12v and no significant voltage drop off when start is pressed.
>I did jump off running truck directly to the solenoid battery side.
>solenoid output is 12v when start is pressed.

I feel like this leans me towards starter being the issue, can anyone give me any input or testing I should run.

Side note, I saw something stating that there wire labeled 15 on the engine control board that should be getting 12v, my wires are a little hard to read, but I think it us the bottom wire on the harness and if so I believe I am not seeing any voltage on that leg. Does that mean I am not getting power yo the control board?
 
>battery is good, tested with a load tester
Does the genny start from the house battery(ies) or from the chassis battery? Which battery was load tested? I don't know much about your Generac, but I expect someone who does will be by shortly.
 
There is probably a "small" can on the starter (the solenoid) and the big cylinder (the starter) - It's a bit of a dodgy thing but using a jumper cable you can jump power to the large stud (where the battery cable attaches) and if the starter spins it is either the start solenoid ( a separate relay) or the starter solenoid integral to the starter (the "small can" on the starter).

It is likely the start solenoid or the starter solenoid. If you are getting power on the small wire at the starter when the button is pressed that indicates the start solenoid is likely OK.

One other ting possible is if the generator is mounted on "soft" isolation mounts it will need a grounding strap for a return path for starter current. So connections or important too.
 
Try this, have a helper push the start button while you tap on the starter it may be stuck on a dead spot on the starter winding. If this does not help remove the starter and bench test by applying a ground to starter cast and power to the starter 12 volt terminal using a pair of jumper cables. If that does not work you need a starter.
 
The starter is not accessible without removing the generator. So I cannot do these tests currently. This is what I was wanting to test, but before I went to the trouble I wanted to make sure there wasn't any common issues I should check. I am pretty sure it is a starter.
 
Given the tests you've done, it does indeed sound like the starter or starter solenoid (probably all one unit). That's not a common genset failure, but it happens.

Is it a single click, or steady repeated clicks while you hold the start button down?
 
Given the tests you've done, it does indeed sound like the starter or starter solenoid (probably all one unit). That's not a common genset failure, but it happens.

Is it a single click, or steady repeated clicks while you hold the start button down?
It is a single click.
 
The Generator usually is a HOUSE device (house batteries)
Just clicks can be several reasons.

First get your voltmeter.. Somewhere, usually where you can easily get to it, is a terminal. may have a RED cover and/or say 12V. with a BIG cable (single wire) hooked to it.. That' where you put the red lead on your voltmeter.
The black lead goes to the metal chassis of the genny

12 volts (or there about) good

now press START

Drops like a rock? Bad connection somewwhere on that positive line.

Next test

Move negative (Black) lead to a good chassis/frame point (NOT the generator chassis but the RV)

IF this test results in little voltage drop the problem is the ground strap or bolts on the generator
If this test shows the same drop it's the positive line.. Bad connection OR.. on the battery negative line (Battery to chassis)

Most likely location is the battery terminals

Also measure battery voltage wile someone presses START

Now if all the electrical supply tests are good

Bad starter
Bad starter solenoid Take your pick

To test teh solenoid (And I have seen them fail) Find it and put the Red lead of the meter on one of the big terminals. 12 volt. try the other one. Now press start and note the voltage

Or you can find the battery lead on the starter (Other end of a piece of wire)

GOOD 12 volt when button pressed it's the starter.. NO 12 volt when button pressed the solenoid.

I once saved a business a whole lot of grief by bypassing a solenoid .
 
There is probably a "small" can on the starter (the solenoid) and the big cylinder (the starter) - It's a bit of a dodgy thing but using a jumper cable you can jump power to the large stud (where the battery cable attaches) and if the starter spins it is either the start solenoid ( a separate relay) or the starter solenoid integral to the starter (the "small can" on the starter).

It is likely the start solenoid or the starter solenoid. If you are getting power on the small wire at the starter when the button is pressed that indicates the start solenoid is likely OK.

One other ting possible is if the generator is mounted on "soft" isolation mounts it will need a grounding strap for a return path for starter current. So connections or important too.
So if I’m not getting power to the start wire on the starter solenoid when the button is pushed there is another solenoid?
 
So if I’m not getting power to the start wire on the starter solenoid when the button is pushed there is another solenoid?

No there should only be one solenoid. In order to be clear we need a couple of definitions.

Primary - a smaller wire that is connected to the start button. Pressing the button energizes the solenoid coil and closes the contacts.

Secondary - The larger wires wired to battery and starter that are connected when starter is energized.

So you said you get a click when you press the button. This usually indicates the primary circuit is working and there is something wrong in the secondary.

Bad ground, dirty/bad contacts internal to the solenoid, bad/weak battery, hung/jammed/siezed crank shaft, damaged teeth on flywheel or starter stopping meshing, bad secondary starter wire.
 
I have to apologize, when I push the start button I only hear the fuel pump. I have no power at the wire that energizes the solenoid. When I jump this wire the engine cranks but won’t start until I hold the start button in. As soon as I release it the motor dies. My electric choke solenoid doesn’t have power either.
 
1 - OK. Your symptoms make some sense. If you jump the solenoid the engine won't start because the fuel pump is not engaged. You concurrently press the start button and the fuel pump runs and the engine starts.
2 - The primary circuit is pretty simple. You have to access the start button and see if there is power on the output to the start solenoid when the button is pressed. If there is then you have an open circuit to the start solenoid and need to fix that.
3 - When you release the start button while jumping the primary circuit the engine quits. It is possible and maybe likely that the start button has a latching relay - a relay that needs power once and then continuously powers the fuel pump when released.

I was about to posit that it could be the start button itself but had a quick look at the manual. The common factor to engine no start and engine stops after button release is a control relay called CR1.

At this point I would suspect CR1. I am guessing it incorporates both the starter logic and the fuel pump latching logic/circuit.

There are probably ways to flash out the relay and determine if in fact it is the cause but the solution is replace the relay. I think if the relay were not too expensive I would replace it if I have confirmed circuit continuity. Note the low oil pressure switch failed would explain the shut down after start but won't explain no crank.



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