Generator Issues

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ScubaCamper

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Jun 26, 2018
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Chattanooga, TN
Re: generac primepact model 020102:
Carburetor part no. A6562

Generator won?t start. Carb is definitely gummed up, as evidenced by a frozen solenoid.
I got the solenoid moving again but it?s still a bit sluggish on its movement.
I?m trying to figure out how to remove the bowl without tearing it up. The bowl only has one visible fastener, which is the solenoid underneath it.
The bowl won?t budge.
I?ve tapped on it with metal tools, tried twisting it by hand, and let seafoam/gas mixture sit in it for a few days.
I?ve considered finding a strap wrench to try breaking it loose but don?t want to tear it up.
1. Is anyone familiar with this model?
2. Is the bowl supposed to just fall off after the solenoid is removed?
3. Anyone know of an effective method of cleaning the solenoid? I?ve let it sit in pure seafoam for about 36 hours in total - about 6 with the pin ?unfrozen? and moving again...haven?t tried starting it up again as I?d like to make sure it?s completely clean before attempting.

Ty in advance!
 

ScubaCamper

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Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Posts
13
Location
Chattanooga, TN
Update: got the solenoid pin moving freely again after soaking in seafoam, and working the pin for about 200 reps.
Got the bowl off by smacking it a little harder with a wrench.
New question!:
Can anyone provide any possible unforeseen problems that might arise if I install an aftermarket switch to the positive wire of the fuel pump? My theory is: if I can turn off the fuel pump and run the generator out of gas before storage, that should keep the majority of the fuel from sitting in the carb and gumming it up. I want to make sure that wouldn?t cause problems, though.
 

Rene T

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Farmington NH
Why not fill the tank with High Test fuel then just add fuel stabilizer. Then run the generator for a few minutes until you're sure the treated fuel is in the entire system.
 

Gary RV_Wizard

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At our Silver Springs FL home
I'm not sure what High Octane fuel will do for it, but stabilizer and a full tank helps. The best method, though, is to run the genset under load for 30 minutes once a month or so. This keeps the fuel system clear and drives accumulated moisture out of the power generation wiring (e.g. the stator and armature).

As far as the switch is concerned, I see no problem. Whether running the carb dry is a complete solution, I cannot say.
 

cerd

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May 29, 2018
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MN
I do not have an onboard generator for my MH, but with all other small engines, we ONLY run premium ethanol free gas. We use premium because that's what the local gas stations supply without ethanol. If they had oxy free 87, we would use that. But the extra 50 cents per gallon is well worth it since we haven't had to clean a carb since. I don't even use stabilizer and I still haven't had a problem.

We started this 4 years ago. We used to have to clean everything every year, even with stabilizer to never needing a clean.

With an onboard, you could run Oxy free in your main tank (gets a little expensive though) or run the fuel line to a remote tank.
 

ScubaCamper

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Jun 26, 2018
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Chattanooga, TN
I definitely run ethanol-free gas in all my small engines but this onboard generator runs off the main gasoline tank...in addition to running them dry at the end of the season (chainsaws, weed eaters, mowers, etc...).
I always put stabilizer in the tank and fill it up before storage but wasn?t sure about the gen.

I?m sure running the gen till it?s out of gas wouldn?t remove ALL fuel but figured it?d be at least something to defer maintenance as long as possible. (?)
 

Rene T

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Gary RV_Wizard said:
I'm not sure what High Octane fuel will do for it, but stabilizer and a full tank helps.

The guy who works on all my small 2 and 4 cycle engines when needed told me that about premium gas.
 

blw2

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Aug 9, 2012
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Saint Johns, FL
I've had the habit of always trying to fill up the gas tank when close to home so i store it closer to full...
and for the last tank or two on a trip I add stab-il... early enough so that it gets into the engine, and I run the genny too even if I don't need it, for the same reason.
 

catblaster

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Kissimmee, Floriduh
A switch works and so does an inline fuel shut off valve. I've been running our standby 10KW Onan out of fuel everytime I store it and have no problems for over almost 30 years. On it I remove the fuel line from the tank so the pump also empties itself.
 

ScubaCamper

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Jun 26, 2018
Posts
13
Location
Chattanooga, TN
catblaster said:
A switch works and so does an inline fuel shut off valve. I've been running our standby 10KW Onan out of fuel everytime I store it and have no problems for over almost 30 years. On it I remove the fuel line from the tank so the pump also empties itself.
I also considered a fuel valve but figured it would have a negative impact on the fuel pump, regardless of placement (before or after pump), and possibly cause it undue stress (?)
 

cerd

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MN
ScubaCamper said:
I definitely run ethanol-free gas in all my small engines but this onboard generator runs off the main gasoline tank...in addition to running them dry at the end of the season (chainsaws, weed eaters, mowers, etc...).
I always put stabilizer in the tank and fill it up before storage but wasn?t sure about the gen.

I?m sure running the gen till it?s out of gas wouldn?t remove ALL fuel but figured it?d be at least something to defer maintenance as long as possible. (?)

What about adding in a tee with a small alternative tank that you can use to run an extra rich concentration of treated fuel before storing it instead of adding a bunch to the main tank?
 

catblaster

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Kissimmee, Floriduh
Becareful with seafoam, it ate the float on a small generator....specifically it destroyed the cement holding the two pieces of float together. cleaned up the tank but buying a new carb was only slightly more expensive than buying the float kit.
 

floyd2u

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Jun 7, 2009
Posts
105
Try pri it comes in G for gas & D for diesel.
It will even bring old gas back to being useful.
The only place I know of to get it is camping world.
Try it you will like it.
Floyd


 

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