Generator won't start

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Don't know where that table came from, but it's very wrong. Or maybe just hopelessly optimistic. Even allowing its measure an active battery rather than "at rest", anything less than 11.9v is poor and 11.2v is darn near totally dead. Barely lights a bulb! 10.5v is the lowest that most RV appliance circuit boards will tolerate, so things stop working even if they use propane or shore power for their main power source. Most experts consider a 12v battery to be "dead" at 10.5v.
Gary, thank you, I kind of figured that was the reason why the fridge kept faulting. This information is very helpful. I have not given up on this. I am just exhausted now.
 
Don't know where that table came from, but it's very wrong.

DIAGNOSIS GUIDE FOR THE KIB MONITOR SYSTEM

I was explaining what voltage each light on his monitor corresponded to. KIB chose the voltages and the "labels" and if you disagree you need to take it up with the manufacturer. LOL
 

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Think ranges, not set points.

Remember these are KIB's determinations.

A battery that is above 11.9 is GOOD
A battery that is above 11.2 but not 11.9 is not GOOD but is FAIR.
A battery that is above 6 but not 11.2 is LOW

The idea that a battery at 11.2V barely lights a light bulb is preposterous! I've run my furnace with a battery that low.
 
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Hey all, thank you for all of the expert input, you all have been a huge help.
 
Start the engine, take a volt meter and check the voltage of the battery under the hood. Then go and check the voltage at the house batteries. Even with low house batteries, it should be fairly close to the same as the underhood battery. If it is not, then the relay that connects the two systems together when the engine is running, is not working. Most likely burned up contacts.

Somewhere on your dash, probably to the left of the steering wheel, is a momentary button or switch, it may be half hidden, may not be labeled, but its almost for certain there. Pushing it forces the same relay (that connects the two systems together when the engine is running) to close when the engine is NOT running. Its a method of jump starting the engine. As noted it is also a method of jump starting the genny.

The relays are notorious for going bad. They function in that they close and make a clunk, but they don't pass electricity.

Charles
 
Start the engine, take a volt meter and check the voltage of the battery under the hood. Then go and check the voltage at the house batteries. Even with low house batteries, it should be fairly close to the same as the underhood battery. If it is not, then the relay that connects the two systems together when the engine is running, is not working. Most likely burned up contacts.

Somewhere on your dash, probably to the left of the steering wheel, is a momentary button or switch, it may be half hidden, may not be labeled, but its almost for certain there. Pushing it forces the same relay (that connects the two systems together when the engine is running) to close when the engine is NOT running. Its a method of jump starting the engine. As noted it is also a method of jump starting the genny.

The relays are notorious for going bad. They function in that they close and make a clunk, but they don't pass electricity.

Charles
Charles, thank you, I had also considered the relay.
 
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