HELP! Fridge Died

[DearMissMermaid]

My fridge has worked flawlessly for a year.

The light became fickle recently, but seemed to start working again after cleaning.

Today I noticed the light died. Later I noticed the fridge temp had shot up and then I realized it wasn't even on.

Where to start?

 

[8Muddypaws]

My guess would be a power problem.  What brand and model refrigerator is it?

 

[Isaac-1]

First start with telling us brand, model, age and some history of how you have been using it.

 

[DearMissMermaid]

Dometic RM2620

Checked 12 volt fuse, it's fine.
Flipped every 110 breaker, they are fine.

Reading manual and troubleshooting only lists 3 simple problems and solutions.

It's been working at 38F in fridge for about a year, since I've owned the rig. Manual indicates it was installed 2007.

Freezer is full and been maintaining at close to zero.

I see temperature gauge whenever I open door. So this baby has been working flawlessly. Til now!

 

[Utclmjmpr]

  I assume you are operating it on 110 volts because you are stationary,, so the 12 fuse would not be the problem. You would have a BREAKER for the 110.. Check your breaker system at the incoming power source..>>>Dan

 

[DearMissMermaid]

Checked the 110 breaker and the 12 volt fuse.

Even checked the wiring at the converter.

All are fine.

Even unplugged fridge and plugged into shed circuit. Last winter when I had 2 RV's and 2 fridges running, I had it working that way for about a month until other RV was sold.

Still no fridge. DOA.

Meanwhile I was a ble to empty it out and store everything in the rec hall here at 1130 at night, at least I had that option. Hoping they don't mind.

 

[Ken & Sheila]

I don't know if applies to your model, but some have a fuse on the control board on the back of the rig. You might have to remove the cover on the control board.


Worth a look,


ken

 

[DearMissMermaid]

Actually tried that and the 110 electrical outlet is blocking it. So will have to see about moving that during daylight.

 

[SpencerPJ]

Sounds like the mother board.  Not terribly expensive.  When you are in there, find the p/n on the board, or from your manual.  You also might try and plug, replug various connections, might just be poor connection.  Parts do go bad, and the flickering light is a sign.

 

[John From Detroit]

First there are multiple fuses if that one is like mine. One (or 2) on a terminal board bottom center of the outside compartment the others are in a black box on the lower left wall of same compartment.

page 2:  With power off.. Unplug and re-plug every connector on the board /box on the left

Then pull the "Eyebrow" (the panel with the lights on it, I tust pulls off) and do the same thing there. ONE plug at a time.  Now restore power and see if luck is with you.

Option 2: on your budget. a small "Dorm" type residential fridge.. about 100 - 200 bucks. I"ve occasionaly gotten lucky (For example an NHL team logo product after they LOST the stanley cup. Very cheap.. About 75% off retail. )

 

[DearMissMermaid]

I am trying everything here.

Managed to move my food to community fridge, hoping no one steals it, but if they do c'est la vie.

Biggest problem is the 110 outlet installation is blocking the magic black box.

Friend of mine says he can come by and possibly move that.

ODD that this fridge would run flawlessly then suddenly just die with no symptoms. ;(

 

[NY_Dutch]

Have you tried running it on LP? If that doesn't work either, the problem is on the 12-volt side.

 

[DearMissMermaid]

Button on control panel won't come on. So no to propane. Sad to say.

Is anyone on here anywhere near Bushnell Florida?  ;D

 

[NY_Dutch]

We won't be near Bushnell until February, but there are some good mobile RV services in the area. See if your neighbors or park management have any suggestions.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

The fridge light is 12v, so a flickering or dead interior light indicates a 12v power problem.  The fridge controller also needs 12v power, and so does the gas valve in LP mode.  The 120v electric mode won't work without 12v power to the controller.  Until you see the interior light working, fusing with the 120v power is a waste of time.


All the problems cited here indicate a 12v problem.  First verify there 12v at the power wire to the fridge controller, accessible from the back. If yes, remove the controller cover and check the 12v fuse there (there is also a 120v fuse for the heater element). If that too is OK and there is 12v power at the fuse holder, the next potential problem is the wiring from the main board to the "eyebrow" panel where the controls & indicator lights reside.  Usually, though, the lights on the panel are out if a problem there. If all those look good, it may be a circuit board failure.

 

[DearMissMermaid]

In the past when the light was cantankerous, I could wiggle the little flap that moves with the door and it would come on again.

I think it lacks 12 volt too. Have checked all I know to check except the black box in back. It is blocked by the 110 outlet that must be removed first. Talk about poor design!

A neighbor said he might come move the outlet and check it out.

My favorite RV repairman got into a spot of trouble and may not be in business anymore. Still trying to track him down.

Thanks for al the encouraging help.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Well, a flaky door switch for the light is a different story, but you stated the light went out and cooling stopped at the same time. Seems very suspicious. In any case, the door switch vs loss of 12v needs to be sorted out so you know where to look for the cooling problem.
The key to successful diagnosis is to be methodical.  Do the quick & easy tests first, of course, but if nothing obvious if found, go back and methodically verify (and eliminate) each item that has to work for the whole thing to function.

 

[DearMissMermaid]

Working behind fridge I took a deep breath and my nose curled up from the ammonia smell. 

I guess that makes mine DOA.  :-[

I am confused as to why the 12 volt died too?

The light is probably coincidental. I think dirt was blocking the light switch cause I could wiggle it and ight would come back on.

Fridge has been steady at below 40F... until now. 

 

[kdbgoat]

Working behind fridge I took a deep breath and my nose curled up from the ammonia smell. 

Sounds like time for a residential fridge install.
The worst part is the cost.
FWIW, my BIL pulled a fridge out and put on a dorm/apt fridge in one of his old campers. It fit rather well in place of the old one.

 

[John From Detroit]

If amonia flooded the outside compartment (From what you said) it may have damaged the electrical lines on the control board killing the internal light or.. as I said. there is a fuse in teh black box that' out there. 2 of 'em I think.. I've popped mine doing mods.