Hensley Arrow - Is it worth the investment?

[sheff99]

On the questions:
1) Well, that's a damn good question. From memory, I thought they were 1000lb bars which I agree is too low.
I just went to the webpage, and according to the picture, the one they sold me as the Draw-Tight Round Round Bar
weight distribution system. The Funtime RV guy told me this was the best they sold (and most expensive)
and has built in sway which is superior to the resistance sway deal. But after looking at the Reese webpage,
they don't claim this has ANY sway control, only a sway control platform. Could this be right? Could this setup
not have ANY sway control???? That would greatly piss me off! I will be on the phone tomorrow.

Hold the phone.  I think mine does have the sway control.  Reese page was a little confusing by how they
break it up.  I think the gold colored part acts as sway control, right?  In that case, I do have it.
Looks like it's simply undersized for my rig...they gave me a whole 600LBS of extra weight before
exceeding the limites of the hitch.  Nice.

-sheff

 

[Carl L]

Hold the phone.? I think mine does have the sway control.? Reese page was a little confusing by how they
break it up.? I think the gold colored part acts as sway control, right?? In that case, I do have it.
Looks like it's simply undersized for my rig...they gave me a whole 600LBS of extra weight before
exceeding the limites of the hitch.? Nice.

-sheff

Look, the parts no. 26000 and 26102 in the web site are the dual cam sway controls, new model and old model.  The control is due to the camming action of the spring bars over the surface of the stirrups of the trailing arms bolted to the frame ahead of the chain lifts.  They will work IF:

1.  you have sufficient tongue weight and spring bar tensile strength rating, and

2.  your the weight distribution was properly adjusted in installation.  Our library has a procedure you can use to check this.  To see it, click HERE.

By the way, RV salesmen have a very low credit rating around here, I fear.

 

[sheff99]

Look, the parts no. 26000 and 26102 in the web site are the dual cam sway controls, new model and old model. The control is due to the camming action of the spring bars over the surface of the stirrups of the trailing arms bolted to the frame ahead of the chain lifts. They will work IF:

1. you have sufficient tongue weight and spring bar tensile strength rating, and

2. your the weight distribution was properly adjusted in installation. Our library has a procedure you can use to check this. To see it, click HERE.

By the way, RV salesmen have a very low credit rating around here, I fear.

Yeah, I can see why.  When I get my new hitch, I'll take the Reese back and extract my money from them for it.
Seems it is clearly to light of a hitch solution.

I looked at the article.  Very useful, thanks.  I'll check it next time I strap up.  From visual observations last time,
the back is up about and 1" or so normally.  Once loaded, it's lower by an 1" or so.  But, when I tightend the
spring bars last time, It didn't seem to raise it any.

Could it be the adjustable shanke is not in the right adjustment?  Do you have a How-to on setting unloaded
ball hight?

Sheff

 

[Carl L]

Yeah, I can see why.? When I get my new hitch, I'll take the Reese back and extract my money from them for it.
Seems it is clearly to light of a hitch solution.

I looked at the article.? Very useful, thanks.? I'll check it next time I strap up.? From visual observations last time,
the back is up about and 1" or so normally.? Once loaded, it's lower by an 1" or so.? But, when I tightend the
spring bars last time, It didn't seem to raise it any.

Could it be the adjustable shanke is not in the right adjustment?? Do you have a How-to on setting unloaded
ball hight?

Sheff

Lots'a luck on getting money back under those terms.? If you are invoking warranty, and maybe you should, you have to give the company a chance to make good on it.? ?Your issue is that the trailer is not stable with the hitch as installed.?
f
The adjustable shank should have the trailer level.? Click HERE for a diagram of how under the topic of ball mounts.

 

[snowguy800]

Carl - which Reese dual cam do you use?? the standard model # 26,000 or do you have the "high performance" # 26,102 version?? Do you have to unhook the sway control when backing up your trailer?? I've heard that you have to do that with some anti-sway devices...

It looks like the Reese dual cam system would work comparably to the Equalizer hitch system that Rob mentioned earlier... although rbell mentioned improvement over his prior Reese system (was that the dual cam rbell?).? They do mention on the Equalizer site that you don't have to unhook anything when backing up the trailer.

We're planning to buy a trailer in the Spring.? I can buy a used Reese trunion bar weight distribution hitch from my brother-in-law and then add the dual cam to it, but if it's not as stable at the Equalizer, I might want to go that route...

any thoughts?

Thanks all!

David

 

[Carl L]

which Reese dual cam do you use?? the standard model # 26,000 or do you have the "high performance" # 26,102 version?? Do you have to unhook the sway control when backing up your trailer?? I've heard that you have to do that with some anti-sway devices...

I have the equivalent of the 26000, bought about 16 years ago.? Because of a recent accident (my tow vehicle was rear ended) I am replacing it with the 26000.? I understand that they are remainder it and the 26102 is the new standard model.? However, that is only rumor.

We're planning to buy a trailer in the Spring.? I can buy a used Reese trunion bar weight distribution hitch from my brother-in-law and then add the dual cam to it, but if it's not as stable at the Equalizer, I might want to go that route...

On my units it has been rock stable.? My units include a 29' TT and a 20' 2-ton plus boat both towed by a Ford E350 van, and the current 23' TT towed by a Bronco, a 4wd unit with a 105" wheelbase.? The latter I have been confidently assured should not be towing a 23' TT.? Fortunately the Bronco does not know this, and with the Reese system tows it just fine for the past 10 years all over the West.? Never had a sway condition occurr even thru Banning and Cajon passes with their crosswinds.

The used hitch set up should be ok, providing that the spring bars are of the proper tensile strength rating. ? It must exceed your tongue weight comfortably.? ?I have 1200 lb bars on a 750 lb tongue weight.

Oh yeah, the Reese Dual Cam backs just fine.  I never break down until I am in the site.

 

[snowguy800]

Thanks Carl!

David

 

[sheff99]

Lots'a luck on getting money back under those terms.  If you are invoking warranty, and maybe you should, you have to give the company a chance to make good on it.  Your issue is that the trailer is not stable with the hitch as installed. 
f
The adjustable shank should have the trailer level.  Click HERE for a diagram of how under the topic of ball mounts.

My excuse will be I didn't feel comfortable driving two hours back to there shop with the current rig,
so I replaced at nearest shop.  If not, I'll sell online - it's virtually brand new.

Thanks for the link - nice pretty pictures!

Thanks for all your help on this topic Carl.  I really appreciate it!

-Sheff

 

[sheff99]

Hi All.  Here's an updated on my experience with the Hensley Arrow hitch.

* It certainly made a huge difference in sway.  I went from white knuckle driving to wrist over the wheel
  relaxed driving.  Passengers in the car could feel the difference too. 
* It seems to me, the turning radius might be sharper, but the trailer seems to turning sooner thus causing
  one to hit a lot of curbs unless you take the turn very wide.  Does this make sense?  I seem to have a harder
  time now pulling into tight places like gas pumps or narrow roads.  U-turns in the open are fine.
*  I recommend you install it yourself.  I had my local dealer do it, and though he did an ok job, the knowlege you get from
  installing it yourself is VERY useful in getting the most from this hitch - if it's not adjusted right, the sway control doesn't work!  (recommendations assumes you're somewhat handy 
*  Not having a ball is a pain in the ass.  I needed to to have the trailer towed (another story) and had a heck
    of a time getting a truck that just had a 2" receiver - they all wanted to hook to balls.
*  extra foot of length due to hitch hook-up is not desireable since the TT is 38' long as it is.


Overall, experience was good and as advertised accept for the turning issue.  I'll probably keep the hitch. 
The 38'er pulled by my Excursion needs all the help it can get!

My two cents,
Sheff

 

[kbfeip]

Wow!  What a huge amount of investigation and effort!

It's a good thing you got the desired result.  I consider myself very lucky.  I have very little free time, and simply went with a few recommendations on this forum suggesting the Equalizer hitch system.  Had it installed by the dealer for $689.00 when I arrived to pick up my new TT, and it worked great!  Simply perfect.

I may also play around with the calculations for ball height and spring bar tension just to see what effect is has on the tow rig, but like I said, I have very little time so who knows if I'll actually get to it.

I like my Equalizer system.  Big time.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Thanks for the report - interesting!

It seems to me, the turning radius might be sharper, but the trailer seems to turning sooner thus causing
  one to hit a lot of curbs unless you take the turn very wide.  Does this make sense?  I seem to have a harder
  time now pulling into tight places like gas pumps or narrow roads.  U-turns in the open are fine.

The extra length between the TV rear axle and the trailer axle causes additional lag in turns. I suspect that is the main effect of the Hensley hitch as far as turning is concerned - your lonnng trailer just got longer and thus cuts the corners even more.    Can you turn as sharply as you did before, i.e. is the pivot angle as good as a ball hitch? Seems to me it would be less, given the design, but I confess I'm unclear on how it handles turns at all.

 

[2006F350]

4) add mild tuner module and better air intake (will add ~150# tq and 2-4MPG).

A mild turner can help (HP/Torque wise) but I highly advise to not mess with the air intake. It has been shown by numerous studies that there isn't an aftermarket air intake that can beat the OEM setup on the Ford 6.0L Diesel. You can 'search'  powerstrokeforum.com and find lots more info about this. Also, I wouldn't expect much of an MPG increase, if any. Most folks I've talked with that has added a tuner have actually lost from 1 to 1.5MPG. At best, it will probably remain the same or a small (< .5MPG increase), but with the added HP/Torque, lots of folks have a tendance to develop a heavier foot.

Larry

 

[sheff99]

Thanks for the report - interesting!

The extra length between the TV rear axle and the trailer axle causes additional lag in turns. I suspect that is the main effect of the Hensley hitch as far as turning is concerned - your lonnng trailer just got longer and thus cuts the corners even more.    Can you turn as sharply as you did before, i.e. is the pivot angle as good as a ball hitch? Seems to me it would be less, given the design, but I confess I'm unclear on how it handles turns at all.

You could be right, it adds at least a foot to the already long length.  I think my trailer is 38' from bumper to hitch.
It seems to me the pivot angle (good term, I was searching for one to describe this!) is not as good with the Hensley
though therer is longs of clearance due to the extra length and hitch action so the trailer can be at very high angles.
Helps for U-turns but makes it difficult when pulling into gas lines/ets when there are concrete barries - I have to make a very wide turn and enter almost straight in our I'll clip them.  I'll study the mechanism some and talk to the Hensley guys,
and post if I learn anymore details/explainations.

Sheff

 

[sheff99]

A mild turner can help (HP/Torque wise) but I highly advise to not mess with the air intake. It has been shown by numerous studies that there isn't an aftermarket air intake that can beat the OEM setup on the Ford 6.0L Diesel. You can 'search'  powerstrokeforum.com and find lots more info about this. Also, I wouldn't expect much of an MPG increase, if any. Most folks I've talked with that has added a tuner have actually lost from 1 to 1.5MPG. At best, it will probably remain the same or a small (< .5MPG increase), but with the added HP/Torque, lots of folks have a tendance to develop a heavier foot.

Larry

Interesting!  A guy at the performance shop said (without hesitation) that a better air intake would help dramatically
(and yield ~10% better mileage) and then a mild tuner like the Edge.  I ended up with the Hypertech due to recommendations by owners.  I read a similar thing about the K&N filter on my motorcycle.  Some folks swear by them,
others say it will damage the engine after time.  I was curious why Ford would have left additional perf/fuel econ on the table if so many others could make obvious improvements. but then again, I had the same questions about the tuners.
Hmmm.  Glad I kept my stock setup.  I'll have to investigate further.  Thanks for posting this.

The HT module definitely made a difference in perf, with and without trailer - excursions a hot rod now .  But,
it and the air intake did not improve mileage at all, though I don't think they hurt it noticeably. 

I am having problems with it though:
1) my trip/mileage computer is all messed up with any setting other than factory
2) after towing for a while, perf/shifting degrades and acts funny - no power when cold and shifts funny when hot.
    When I plug the HT back in to check, I have error codes.  If I re-program, I'm good for a while.  I'm going to call
    there tech support next week to try and debug this.  I get this even after restoring to factory.

 

[sheff99]

FYI - interesting write-up on Hensley dynamics.

http://www.divtune.com/hensley/
sheff


<<Edited to make link live>>

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Manufacturers don't use filters like the K&N because it requires filter maintenance (cleaning and relubricating) to avoid possible engine damage and to maintain performance. The average customer doesn't want to be bothered or would simply forget, then blame the company for resulting problems.

Tuner-type enhancements always gain performance in one spectrum at the sacrifice of something else, perhaps performance elsewhere but more likely drivability in some climate or traffic condition. And sometimes in fuel economy.  Most any engine can be tuned for a specific application and so better than stock, which is generic for all drivers in all conditions.  Heck, an RV engine is tuned differently than the same engine in a car and that's probably different than a pick-up, right from the factory.