Thor Wayne
New member
What is the best lube for the hitch on my travel trailer? Wd40 is gone in no time.
Hitch lube
- Thread starter Thor Wayne
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Martian
Well-known member
Depending on your hitch, it may not need lubricating. An example is the Reese trunnion hitch with anti sway. Like all hitches, the ball must be lubricated and the pivots for the bars can use a little grease but the ends that ride on the anti sway bars should not be lubricated with anything more than a very light coat of vaseline. When all else fails, refer to the instructions that came with the hitch.
Kirk
Well-known member
For the hitch ball, I use a white lithium spray lubricant but graphite also works well but doesn't last as long.
Rene T
Site Team
I just use hehilar General wheel bearing grease.
I ain't ever put grease on a hitch ball in my life and don't know anyone who has. Never seen a hitch ball wore out from lack of grease or otherwise. The prospect is intrigueing however, I could market a line of hitch ball spray lube scientifically formulated especially for RV hitch balls. The lack of hitch ball grease is probably why so many RV'ers have trouble backing into camping spots.
Last edited:
Mr Lars
Well-known member
For a ball hitch, grease or oil may do more harm than good. Dirt and road grime will attach to the grease, and increase wear.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
I agree with those who say lubing the ball is unnecessary, but if you insist, a grease is the most effective choice. Bearing grease or lithium clings well and holds up under pressure, but messy. I predict you will soon hate it! A quick spray with a clear film lubricant is a lot less messy but it's not durable so you need to do it every time you hitch up. Here's one that claimns to be made for that purpose: 3-IN-ONE Trailer Hitch Lubricant 10 oz - Ace Hardware
If you are talking about the sockets where spring bars attach, follow the instruction from the hitch manufacturer. Some may say do not lubricate at all because they rely on friction to provide an anti-sway assist. Others may specify a light machine oil or spray lube.
If you are talking about the sockets where spring bars attach, follow the instruction from the hitch manufacturer. Some may say do not lubricate at all because they rely on friction to provide an anti-sway assist. Others may specify a light machine oil or spray lube.
Ex-Calif
Well-known member
When and where I use WD40 I view it as an "apply every time" type of lube. I don't expect it to last.
I have never lubed the ball or socket of a hitch but routinely spray a little WD40 on the latch mechanism. I have never considered using any type of grease due to the mess and collection of dirt.
Jeez, they beat me to it.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
It's well known to manufacturers that they can sell anything to an RV owner simply by re-labeling the products they already produce.
Western Slope
Well-known member
I use white grease. I purchased a tube of Equal-i-zer grease for my Equal-i-zer hitch to get into tight spaces to help silence it. Don't grease the L brackets. Road salt and gravel plus magnesium chloride is used in winter in my region. Rather keep wear surfaces greased than rust.
Equal-i-zer 91-00-4250 High-Performance Lubricant
The Equal-i-zer 91-00-4250 High-Performance Lubricant works great for lubricating hitch balls, hitch head, and L-brackets on your Equalizer hitch. Easy to apply and has less odor than similar lubricants.
www.rvupgradestore.com
They can sell it to anybody. Likewise they can alter the amount of active ingredients and just change the measure of how much to use thereby raising the price without raising the price. I noticed the cup on the laundry soap I've been buying from Sam's Clubs suddenly got bigger, while the container and price didn't change. What they've done is simply reduced the active ingredients and added more water, therefore I'll get the same results only by using more.It's well known to manufacturers that they can sell anything to an RV owner simply by re-labeling the products they already produce.
Old_Crow
Well-known member
I used to not lube my hitch balls. My father always did lube his and I could never see the advantage, only the disadvantage of the greasy hitch hanging on the back of the truck while we were at the campground.
Then last year I bought the car hauler and had my kid pick it up in Merced and deliver it to me on the East Side. They put a brand new ball on his hitch in Merced, and by the time he got to the East Side all the chrome was worn off the ball. Now I use a thin layer of wheel bearing grease.
john & Piper
Member
I use a thin layer of bearing grease and put a sandwich bag over the ball when disconnected so as to not ruin shorts/pants(ask me how I know).
Tulecreeper
Well-known member
The trick is to not get a chromed ball.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
The pretty chrome plate on a hitch ball is a waste unless it's a really high quality (thick) plate or (better yet) solid chromium. The typical thin chrome plate is going to wear away or crack off whether lubed or not. The good stuff is more expensive than most are willing to pay, so you may as well buy an unplated ball and just clean it up once in awhile.
The term is “eye wash”.
Ex-Calif
Well-known member
The only argument for a chrome ball is that it's pretty. I remove my draw bars when not in use so I don't slam my shins/knees.
The other day I pulled into Lowes and "boink" hit the reverse (pulled through) parked truck in front of me. His draw bar stuck out about 18 inches and was also "over the line" and I didn't notice it.
Thankfully the brush bar took the full load with only a dimple and of course he had zero damage. We happened to come back at the same time and I said, "Full disclosure I smacked you drawbar pulling in but looks like no damage. Sorry about that" He replied, "Damn. My bad sorry about that."
Amazing how 2 dudes can have this conversation and no one went road rage and pulled out a gun - LOL...
The other day I pulled into Lowes and "boink" hit the reverse (pulled through) parked truck in front of me. His draw bar stuck out about 18 inches and was also "over the line" and I didn't notice it.
Thankfully the brush bar took the full load with only a dimple and of course he had zero damage. We happened to come back at the same time and I said, "Full disclosure I smacked you drawbar pulling in but looks like no damage. Sorry about that" He replied, "Damn. My bad sorry about that."
Amazing how 2 dudes can have this conversation and no one went road rage and pulled out a gun - LOL...
Tulecreeper
Well-known member
Lowe's pkg lot, 2 weeks ago. My wife opened the passenger door of my RAM and it 'dinged' the car next to us. Damn...so I wrote a note and stuck it under the wiper and we left. Never heard from them. Oh, and I took a picture. You know, just in case the guy thought he could get a free quarter panel out of me because there were other dings there also.
Old_Crow
Well-known member
Well, I bought the whole thing, trailer and ball over the phone and didn't really specify a chrome ball. Just needed a 2 5/8" instead of the 2" I'd been running while flat towing the Jeep. The 2" ball I had was also chrome, and after 6 years of flat towing the Jeep without lube had very little damage to the chrome. The 2 5/8" ball was down to the steel after a trip from Merced over Tioga Pass to Crowley Lake. Maybe 200 miles?
Anyway, I figure the wear was caused by the increased tongue weight of the trailer over just flat towing the Jeep with a solid tow bar. I normally carry a grease gun anyway, so it's not a big deal to wipe the ball off when I get back out here in the summer and then put a shot of grease on it when I'm ready to travel again. If I was moving more often I'd just get one of those covers or a baggie and put on the ball.
