Holding tank valve how-to

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Pat

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Next project is to replace the black water holding tank valve.? Attached is a picture.? The black valve is on the left, the grey on the right.? There is a pipe from the grey to the front of the black.?

The instructions with the new valve say:

--Remove old valve and seals.
--Place new seals over the lip of existing flanged fittings.
--Insert new valve being careful not to dislodge seals.
--Tighten nuts and bolts provided.

1.? Once the old bolts are removed, in what direction do I pull the old valve to remove it?? Sideways?? Or away from the RV toward me?? Note in the picture that there is the grey pipe in the way, if I have to pull it toward me.?

2.? What are the "existing flanged fittings"?

3.? I assume that whatever is exposed by the removal of the old valve can be cleaned.? What kind of lube might help?? I notice the new valve seems to be lubed.?

4.? Is there anything different I have to do to remove and replace the grey tank valve?? It is also stuck now and then.?

5.? Has anybody found a website that has this job in pictures, step by step?

If the valve pulls sideways to remove, then I can see where the switch can be done, but if it has to be pulled toward me away from the coach, then it seems that the grey tank pipe has to be removed.?

--pat


 

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Tom

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1. You should be able to pull the valve in the same direction you'd pull the handle (to the left in the photo).

2. The flanged fittings are the parts on either side of the existing valve and are attached to the sewer pipe. They bolts go through one flange, then the valve, then the second flange.

3. Yes, you can clean the exposed parts. I don't recall using a lube.

4. Same procedure for the grey valve.
 

Pat

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Tom:  Thanks.  I'm glad to hear how to remove the old valve.  Removing any of the piping would have made it a project-for-hire.  As soon as I get the black valve successfully replaced, I'll do the grey one.  I think the original installer, Ernhardt's in Mesa, did not align those rubber seals properly.  The valves have been difficult from the beginning.  I'm also told that Valterra has made improvements in the seals. 

I need to print your comments.  I think I'll tackle this tomorrow.

--pat

P.S.  I Still think you should have potatoes in the corned beef casserole.
 

Tom

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Pat said:
I Still think you should have potatoes in the corned beef casserole.

I do, but omitted them from the recipe. I just edited it.
 

Pat

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Late Sunday morning:

Tom:

If anybody's making a list of skills and talents for Moab, put me down for changing sewer valves.  I have found my calling. 

--pat
 

Tom

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Congratulations Pat. We'll have you do a demo for us in Moab.

BTW did you take any photos of the job?
 

Jim Dick

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Pat said:
Late Sunday morning:

Tom:

If anybody's making a list of skills and talents for Moab, put me down for changing sewer valves.  I have found my calling. 

--pat

Pat,

I'll be sure to call you when my valves need replacing!! ;D ;D ;D

 

Pat

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Tom:  Hmm.  Good thinking on the photos.  I could create a portfolio of my work, like an artist.  I wonder if a website would be in order...

Jim:  I'm out here, assuming Anybody would take a chance.  I've done several repairs and have gotten to know my motorhome infinitely better with the help of this forum.  As long as a spark from my converter wiring job doesn't set off the LP from my furnace repair job.

--pat
 

Tom

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Pat

I was thinking of something you could post in the forum that others could benefit from.
 

Jim Dick

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Pat,

We all learn as we go along. I'm learning a lot more about the refer than I wanted to know. :) Now I can bypass the control board in about 2 minutes. Of course, after I learned that, they told me how to do it in 2 seconds!

Think I'll wait until you're sure the propane doesn't ignite. ;D ;D
 

Pat

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Tom:  Oh, you really meant it.  OK.  Actually, I plan to buy another valve to replace the grey holding tank valve.  I'll photograph the steps.  I could probably use the info myself when I have to replace these due to AZ hard water deposits in a couple years.  That's a good suggestion. 

--pat
 

Pat

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Jim:  I'm going to start a new topic asking you about bypassing this fridge control board.  It was a major concern when my converter died the other day.

--pat
 

Tom

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Looking forward to seeing your illustrated report Pat. TIA.
 

Pat

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Tom:  I need to find a hand model.  I'm thinking Tommy the Sheriff's kid.  He's around a lot. 

--pat
 

Pat

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Tom:  If I'm going to create an illustrated description for changing a holding tank valve, I can't hold the tools and take the pictures at the same time.  Thus, the hand model. 

--pat
 

Tom

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Oh, you mean a model of a hand. Most how-to's that I write and illustrate merely use talk bubbles in the photos instead of a hand. OTOH you could use the timer on the camera if you really had to have a hand in the pic.
 

Pat

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Tom:  Apparently you are unaware of my lack of dexterity. 

Another question near this topic.  I bought a new cap for the sewer drain.  It has a little cap on it that looks like an opening for a hose.  Why would one hook a hose up to the sewer drain?  I can't picture what it does.

--pat
 

Carl L

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Pat said:
Another question near this topic.? I bought a new cap for the sewer drain.? It has a little cap on it that looks like an opening for a hose.? Why would one hook a hose up to the sewer drain?? I can't picture what it does.

--pat

Draining the gray water tank.  That tank usually fills faster than the black tank.  If one is using tote tanks to haul off the water to a dump station,  it is easier to handle a 3/4 garden hose than a 3" sewer hose.
 

Pat

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Carl:  Oh.  I got it.  For some reason I thought it had to do with hooking a hose up and running water into the tanks, which just didn't make sense, since it would run right back to the hose.  OK.  So I can just ignore the little cap for the most part. 

--pat
 

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